Malachi1364

I personally have never tried them on a gtst because I live in the USA and only know people who have imported GTR's. But if the Center console is the same then it should fit just fine. As long as the stock triple gauge holder from the GTR fits into your GTST then my part will also. Also thanks Milhouse for the positive feedback! I appreciate it!

I have recently started making some aftermarket gauge holders that fit 52mm gauges and fit into the stock triple gauge holder location on the r32 GTR. Some slight modification is required to get the unit to fit but once installed it looks just like factory. The only modification required is to cut a small slit in the plastic mounting location to allow the holder to slide up into its stock spot since the front plate is not removable like the stock on is. They are made out of 6061 Aluminum and four M5x.8 mounting bolts will be included with the unit. I am selling them for $120USD shipped to anywhere in the USA. And $130USD shipping to Australia. I currently have 10 units available. I will be making more based on demand. I have tested this unit with both AEM and Defi gauges and both fit perfectly. If you have a different brand gauge just let me know what size the gauge measures across and I can verify for correct fitment. I respond to Email quicker than I do a PM on the forum. So if you would like to email me at [email protected] that would be greatly appreciated

i went ahead and ordered all new Insulators and both sets of upper O-rings. I think they all might be slightly squashed

Double Insulators on injectors? So i took my fuel rail off today and we messing around with some stuff and when i went to put it back on i realized there were insulators still on the bottom of my injectors and also 6 still in my intake manifold.... Is this normal? Or did the previous owner buy the wrong size injectors and make them work by adding an insulator? When i remove one set of insulators the Injector does not seat in the intake manifold where its supposed to... heres 2 pictures of what i mean

Yeah i was thinking it was Either the fuel pump or the MAF's. Took both out of the equation with the fuel pump rewire and Maf delete via the Haltech

Well im not 100% certain exactly what fixed it because I changed a bunch of things over the weekend. I had a small leak at my intake plenum to cylinder 4 throttle body so i replaced all the gaskets with brand new TOMEI metal ones. Then i rewired my fuel pump with a relay and constant 12v source straight from the battery. Also i installed my Haltech Platinum Pro ECU so it eliminated both MAFS and both 02 sensors for a 3Bar Map sensor and Wideband 02. Doesnt seem to have any hesitation issues anymore but i have not reved it up much because i need to get it to the dyno to get tuned. I do believe it was the fuel pump wiring though. The rewire honestly took me an hour max and with how old the wiring is on these cars id recommend doing it even if you arent having problems.

Still in need of both of these pieces

Being a "7" heat range wouldnt cause me to run lean if anything i would think it wouldnt spark the fuel and make me run rich. Today at work thinking i may have figured out the problem. I took the fuel pump out of the fuel tank to see if it was upgraded and the power/ground wire plug clip is broken off so It doesnt clip back into its spot. Im thinking as im driving the voltage is changing to the fuel pump causing me to have the wrong fuel pressure and therefore a lean condition across all the cylinders evenly. Im going to order a fuel pump rewire kit and figure out a way to fix that plug. Also going to buy an AFPR w/ a gauge so i can make sure my fuel pressure is good. If i am totally wrong with this guess let me know. From my past experiences when your MAF or 02 sensors goes back it causes a rich condition, not lean.

r32 GTR having random hesitation issues So i bought this r32 gtr about a month ago and am now starting to have some issues. (link to the car/mods) So i replaced the Plugs with brand new NGK BKR7E plugs, New fuel filter, Cleaned both mafs (with maf cleaner), Reset base timing to 20deg, and checked the car for boost leaks. Now im having a problem. I randomly get hesitation between 2k-4k rpm, Kinda like a bad MAF sensor would give, but then it will all of a sudden go away and drive fine. And will reappear sometimes 3 minutes later, sometimes 20. Never has a problem over 5k rpm or in boost. Just seems like part throttle low RPM. So today i pulled my plugs back out and checked my coils to make sure they were good (.9 ohms on every splitfire coil). Every single one of my plugs is showing a lean condition (plug tip is white). When I changed the old plugs out there were dark black and smelled like gas (obviously i was running rich). I have only driven this car maybe 20 miles since ive done the routine maintenance after I got it. So my question is this. What could have happened to make the car all of a sudden run lean? Checked the ECu codes and had nothing (code 55). Could one of my MAF sensors be messing up after i cleaned it and not throwing a code? FPR take a shit on me? Faulty fuel filter? (yes its installed correctly). I bought a Haltech with the CAN wideband controller and 3 bar map sensor. I wanted to wait until this winter (in the USA thats 3 months from now) before i went to install it. But my dyno tuning shop wont tune a car that has any issues prior to installing the Haltech so i dont think i will pass inspection. I should have just left well enough alone when i got the car as it ran good but was running rich (but thats better than lean!) Also the boost leak test found I have a small pinhole leak above 12psi on the intake manifold which will be fixed this winter. I cant imagine that would be an issue. And did a compression check on the engine just now and it read 155, 165, 165, 165, 165, 155. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Still running stock displacement on the built motor? What rpm where you seeing positive boost/Full boost? This is a Ball Bearing turbo correct?

Im in the USA and the car was bought from japan so no way of actually knowing what was all done. I know a lot of the stuff but this one is weird. Having a huge T04R turbo wouldnt it be weird to raise the rev limiter to an unsafe spot by the tuner? the power never falls off and keeps going. are the r32 clusters known to be off at high rpm?

Here in the USA we call the piece im looking for the Bezel but i was informed that it goes by Gauge Cluster Surround or Trim (the piece with all the buttons on it). Thats the piece Im looking for and the whole trim piece that surrounds the shifter/radio afrea.

Whats the Rev limiter on a R34 Rb26??? I just bought my r32 gtr a little over a week ago and it has plenty of mods and Im trying to figure out everything that could possibly be done to this car that I dont know of. Heres a link to the car with known mods So one of the biggest questions I am having is I have no idea if the block or head is built at all and the main reason im asking this is because I honestly do not think I have a rev limiter. She pulls SUPER hard and fast from 5500+rpm and before you know it im at 8k rpm and need to shift. Well today I kinda went too far and it hit 8500 and still no rev limiter (im not trying to rev it high it just goes from 5500-8k within a second or so and im still not used to the power). This is a chipped ECU that i plan on ditching within 6 months for a Haltech, but right now im confused. Was this motor possibly built to go 9k revs or something? I highly doubt whoever ECu tuned this thing would remove the rev limiter. I currently want to buy a Zeitronix wideband data logger system and a Bee-R just to get me by for now so i dont blow my engine but at that point I might as well save up a bit more money and just go Haltech which will do both of the above with loads more. Your thoughts?

Yeah I can make a new intake and dump pipe no problem as I have a welder in my garage. How is the spool on the BW EFR8374 compared to the GTW3884R 67 trim? Kinda hard to find info like that in the US

I had planned on going Haltech platinum Pro because in the USA I have more tuners that know that system over the Link (At least near me) Trying to figure out a new turbo right now at the same time too. That old outdated T04R journal bearing turbo doesnt hit 1.1 bar till 5300 RPM. So my current plan is changing the HKS low mount for a 6boost top mount and plan on going with a GTW3884r 67 trim. Should give me the same power but with better response from what ive researched. If i can get that all installed with the Haltech in the next couple months I believe id love the car even more. Right now the lag is really bad, but the second that boost hits, your put into your seat