niZmO_Man

For Australian compliance, they normally remove the HID bits and wire up a H1 and adaptor plate (or shove whatever halogen they can if they're dodgy), so if you have the OE HID stuff in there, I'd endeavour to keep them. If it's H-something HID kit from ebay, bin it. Do you have the owner's manual? It should have all the bulbs listed in it. *edit* Lots of info here: http://yariksteel.ru/manual/stagea/nm35/manual_pdf/ Get the 'LT.pdf' file and Google Translate

Mate, just because you don't move enough "bricks", don't complain (I'm kidding)

There were various factory options. Kenwood, Panasonic comes to mind. I can't find the scans of the options, but I'm sure there are people around here with the brochures or scans of it.

Usually printed on the top of your headlights on the black plastic part. If it's a shitty Plug n Play kit, should be easy to go back to original halogen. (I don't know but I suspect H4). If it's D2R, check which bulb is in there. If it's some shit aftermarket one, throw in standard D2R Philips/Osram from powerbulbs

Can confirm, sounds amazing in real life

The only time my R32 stranded me was when one of the intercooler joints popped off (because I didn't tighten it down properly). A flat head screw driver fixed that (and a small good LED torch).

RB's have been done already. Have you considered a Hartley V12 (based on the Toyota Century V12)

Driving it will be even more enjoyable because of the labour. Keep it!

Could have after-after-market parts on it (suspension, clutch, shifter) but yeah, would be good to see what differs from "vanilla" GT-Rs

Sell your R34 and buy Dose's R33

Tyre pressure gauge.

Yeah my R32 sounds like that, makes people move out of the way lol

The same as RB30ET

You should create a new build thread for that beast. I love the 2L touring cars. Also you'll need some 19" wheels

The "stockers" floating around would keep their value no?