niZmO_Man

Yeah I haven't had the time/money to do so yet. I have good condition Nismo AFMs and a Nistune to throw in. Eco tune should bring the fuel usage down to <11L/100km . I believe I have a grounding/electrical problem in the arse of the car somewhere, so once that's fixed I think HICAS should be good (works fine when electrics aren't trying to kill me).

I have never bought a car from a dealer as I always found a better deal privately. But I do agree, as a business, if you're dodgy-ing up your work, you don't deserve to be in business. For the uninformed, this usually kills the reputation of the car. This is why everyone thinks BNR32 will grenade its motor if you floor it once. Dodgy car, unknown history, bought from dodgy yard/person. My relatively rough car has been going great for what it is. I bought it knowing it had issues, still doesn't stop me from enjoying it (stupid HICAS and AFMs).

http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/8472344/hsd-ad-type-coliovers-for-skyline-er34.html These are heaps comfortable on Sydney roads (compared to the stiffer stuff, including the Blitz ones from JustJap). HSD AD is on S15 and street only. Blitz ZZ-R on S14 (think they're 8kg/6kg f/r) and car is street/track. For road only, AD for sure (if they made them for GT-R I would have them right now). If you're going to take it to the track or want a "stiff" setup, then HSD HR/BC BR/Blitz ZZ-R. All for <$1,500 Bilstein is more expensive but you get what you pay for. Their low range control is really good (ripple control) mainly due to the large piston diameter. If you can afford it, then get them.

GKTech

Nistune. Uses standard ECU, but has programmable board in it. This means everything will run as per usual. If you decide to go all out, I hear Haltech is pretty good. Speak to Willal Racing anyway.

Penrite Premium 0?

You da cray. I'm taking my LMGT1s to my grave lol.

Buy one with a straight chassis (look underneath), minimal rust and good interior. Ignore kms as it would be wound back. Engine/gearbox will be getting tired by then. $15k for a decent one + spare money for rebuild/replacement. Mine has crushed jack points, some rough paint and dings/dents thanks to retards in car parks. If I didn't check underneath (didn't really care as long as it was straight), it would have sold. A legit 50k km car will, by then, easily cost $25k+ and will be hard to find. You'll probably have to look at AUDM ones with more than double the price tag. People want immac GT-R's for $15k. What do you expect from a 20 year old Japanese supercar which has been imported and changed hands a few times?

Hahahahaha

Not to be discouraging, but if you're asking for step by step instructions, you're going to have a bit of a rough time. See if you can find a service manual (think there might be one floating around on the Internet).

Shame you're in VIC

Go hard or go home!

Why did you start another thread? Your previous thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/427726-18in-varrostoens-on-32gtr/ Exact same question. Also, you're running mismatched tyres. I guess you have your ATTESSA disabled.

10kg/mm springs would be shocking on the public roads. Unless you live in an area with smooth roads. Jump onto the Otomoto website and have a look at their range. HSD HR (what they usually sell) will be fine. 8kg/7kg (f/r) is plenty stiff. If you want less roll, install bigger anti-roll bars on your car. You can also order alternative spring rates.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/380988-nsw-tein-suspension-3-catback-exhaust/#entry6568159

Should put that on google review.

$500. I'm old and it's too harsh for Sydney roads. It's an old spring height adjustable only

I had Advan Sport V105 on the back of my R31 in 225/45/17 (before changing wheels). They were old and I got them for $100, but they had heaps of tread and were excellent. Never slipped up once.

Yeah it's so damn annoying . Funnily enough, I replaced my 02 sensors with new ones, no difference to steering! Hahaha. It's definitely electrical. I'm thinking grounding/voltage issue causing solenoid to go spastic. The 4WD relay in the boot clicks as well, lights dim (big current draw). Fricken R32s. With the HICAS computer plugged in, it's horrible to drive.

Yeah, don't bother with a 'HID kit'. Get OEM headlights or retrofit HID projectors into your housings. You can get D2R bulbs from powerbulb (genuine Philips or Osram). http://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/philips-xenon-hid-d2r-85122-single

Ziex are shithouse. Azenis are good (FK452 are great in the dry/wet). I had old ST115 on my BNR34 wheels, they were good despite being made in 2006.

I got some TEINs for cheap

Reminds me of the maroon R32 with the clutch through the bonnet.

It's frak.

Tempe tyres lol. I'm starting to form the opinion that FK452>KU31 lol. The Falken's were cheaper as well.