niZmO_Man

My red ones (upper rear and front arms) from Just Just were gone/heaps noisy within a year. Got GKTech ones atm (rear upper arms)

With more spares...

I bought my R32 GTS-t for $6k. Standard including exhaust, good condition. You should easily get an R33 N/A for that much.

I've been using Penrite since I started driving. HPR15 in my R31 for 5 years no issues. With my GT-R, went from Mobil 1 5W-50 to SIN5, engine ran noticeably smoother and the pressure was more consistent at 5,000 km compared to fresh oil. The 10 tenths is even smoother again (by not much).

Philips 85122 is 4300K, be careful of ebay ones, most are fake. You can get 4300K from ebay as well for about $20 each. Alignment is usually slightly out on those ebay ones. The 85122 gave a better cutoff and slightly better spread on my headlights (not OEM, Morimoto projectors).\ It's pretty easy to tell whether your headlights are HID or not. Colour, warm up, sharp cut-off, blue cut-off line (which is what dumb arses running 8,000-10,000K bulbs want in their halogen reflectors).

Raise the car? Why not do it yourself? Or you can adjustable rear upper arms and wind the camber out (GKTech ones are nice).

Put a 400R/LM front end on it?

With the wheels, you'll have to check the space on the back of the spokes.

What are the wheel dimensions on the tyre placard?

Powerbulbs are a bit more expensive than ebay, but the bulbs arrive in a week and you're guaranteed they're legit.

Your cluster was probably replaced with one from a car that had traction control. From factory the bulbs would be removed if the car didn't have TC.

Something like this? http://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/osram-cool-blue-intense-xenarc-d2s-single You can get cheap ones from ebay, but I found that genuine Philips/Osram (I got Philips 85122, not the 85122+, so it would colour shift as it got older) will produce a better beam. Beware that there are many fakes on ebay.

Bump

Will easily fit R32 GT-R

That is why I went to the trouble of wiring up relays for my cars. Don't want to burn switches or worse.

On my GT-R I went from HPR10 to SIN5 to Racing 10 (couldn't find Premium 5). The 10 tenths made the most noticeable difference, the engine runs smoother and quieter compared to the other two oils. Hopefully they last 10,000km lol. TJZ - 10W-40 is not too thick, Nissan 200SX oil (from Nissan) is 7.5W-30, so 10W-40 or thereabouts is fine for daily driving. If you're thrashing your car a lot then look at getting thicker oil (5W-50 or 10W-60 etc.).

Nismo suspension should be fine as they're not adjustable. PM fatz to see if he has a set of standard GT-R ones.

Auto ECU works fine in a manual car.

I'm going to take a guess and say BCPR7ES

That sucks Bit thin, try 5w-50

Yes please

Try to get BCPR6ES-8, or gap the regular ones down to 0.8mm. Assuming you have old coilpacks.

Thanks for the tip. I haven't tested the motor yet.There are two pumps on the washer bottle in the engine bay so I thought the rear washer ran off that, but it could be possible that there's a second pump in the wiper assembly. Anyone have a known working one they want to sell to me cheap cheap?

Tried Taarks?

265/35/18 Falken Azenis on R34 GT-R wheels (18x9) I want the same on my 18x10, hopefully 275/35 would achieve this lol.