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niZmO_Man

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Everything posted by niZmO_Man

  1. GTS4 diffs are 4.3 ratio and GT-R ones are 4:11, 4.3 = quicker acceleration (as the GT-R gearbox has taller ratios compared to GTS-t).
  2. I bought my R32 GTS-t for $6k, standard everything. Was an awesome daily, rev it and it'll go hard, drive it like a commuter car and it would easily do 600km to a tank. Shame my dad wrapped it around a pole on a wet day. These days you can get R33 for that price. If you don't mind the looks, they are a good car IMO. The 2.5L would make it a little easier to drive in traffic and the car would be more comfortable than an R32. Whatever you decide on, try to get one that's as close to standard as possible. There are good ones out there, you have to be patient.
  3. Originals are rubber I think. You can FRP ones from JustJap.
  4. Sounds like you have AFM issues. Check the AFM plug. Do you have an oiled air filter?
  5. Did you try a different AFM?
  6. Pull off the dash surround and have a look at the wiring and headlight switch.
  7. Probably just colour as the Nismo R32 came in gunmetal.
  8. I think EvoXenon's work was posted a few pages back. I have one quesiton, why butcher a factory HID headlight to put projectors in? Why not get another pair of halogen headlights?
  9. Spotted Silver R32 GT-R going north on Cowpasture rd. Nismo wheels (LMGT3?), Nismo sticker on boot. Very clean.
  10. They probably just chucked the brackets on the n/a lights to save some cash.
  11. Started my retrofit today. Morimoto FX-R projectors are almost the same as R32 projectors. Tapped one corner and drilled the other, went straight onto the adjusters. Tap: 5mm dia 0.8mm pitch (M5x0.8). Need AMP to D2S straight adaptors, which I didn't order beforehand so my retrofit is on a hold .
  12. Aaaand the projectors have moulded brackets *slowpoke*.
  13. Sorry, didn't get a chance to grab the headlights out of storage yet. I have projectors headlights only, so may differ with reflector (N1).
  14. The ones without the grill brackets are from the pov R32 Skylines. I will double-check whether you can detach the mounts tonight. From memory I do remember seeing screws holding them in place.
  15. Different rolling diameters affects ATTESSA e.g. bigger rear tyres.
  16. Hey man, they still count! Respect to the elderly
  17. From reading around here, 18x10 +20 with 275/35 I believe. Will have to roll the guards. That would be my aim anyway. I have 265/35 on R34 GT-R wheels on my 32R with non-rolled guards. No scrubs.
  18. Bit off topic, but does anyone know what relays are in the passenger side rear guard? At work atm so can't really do much searching yet.
  19. No 245 is already stretched on a 9.5" wide wheel. How low is your car? Do you have rolled guards? Did you get a wheel alignment done? Do you have adjustable castor and upper arms? When I fitted 265 on my BNR34 wheels, the front right would scrape under load. I wound some neg camber and castor to stop it scrapping then took it down to an alignment place to get the numbers right. Thanks to a couple of popular tyre shops that have regular specials, my alignment was all over the place, so my fiddling actually improved the alignment.
  20. What did you do? Would be handy for future info seekers.
  21. Incorrect, see C10 and C110 Skyilne GT-Rs from the 1969 - 1973 OP, as suggested, read read read, and read some more. The more information you have the more informed choices you will make. Lucky for you that your first car is an R34. It will teach you car control and how vehicle reacts to driver inputs and conditions (skid pan and track days). Don't worry about the non-turbo aspect, you have plenty of power for a p-plater. I still have my first car, my R31 Skyline, which is supposed to be my daily. Your N/A R34 will be a good daily, the NEO6 is pretty economical. You can buy a GT-R later and have your R34 as a run around .
  22. Could be any thing, looks like someone put a jack on there then realised "ah crap wrong place" when they heard noises while jacking it up.
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