Ben1

Applicable for C34 Stageas and other models that use plastic retainer clips in the power window regulator. So a few years back one of the plastic clips (pictured) in the power window regulator shit itself and I was unable to wind the rear window back up without wiggling it back in but inevitably it would fall out again. Bad for keeping the weather and thieves out Looking around online I wasn't able to find replacement clips (not listed as a separate part) and the Ford/Holden ones I saw didn't look like they were going to work. Couldn't find a replacement regulator at the time either and didn't have the cash for one anyway because of personal reasons. Below is the fix I came up with and it has worked fine for me for the past 4-ish years. I don't have pictures of everything I did at the time. The attached pictures I took today while replacing the regulator which should give you the right idea. Note that I only decided to replace the regulator because I found a replacement in good condition. The repaired regulator worked fine except for making a small clunk when initially going up or down. Hopefully this should get you out of a jam until you can find a replacement or someone starts 3D printing some replacement plastics *hint hint* in which case this guide might still be helpful depending on how the plastics are meant to be installed. Steps: Remove the power window regulator from the car. Bend the tab at the rear of the regulator out of the way using pliers, multigrips or similar so you can pull the regulator apart. Take note of how it goes together first - obvs. Find an appropriate sized metal washer and press it on in a vice. Some filing to increase the inner diameter and heat may be required to help it along. NOTE I would recommend packing on some nylon washers/retaining clips/something to keep the metal washer as far away from the regulator as possible and to ensure it sits reasonably snug in the channel that it slides in. The outer diameter of the washer I used was a bit smaller than the channel and therefore clunked a little when going up and down but it worked. Remove any debris from the channel that that plastic clips slide in and reassemble. Lube appropriately if desired and bend the metal clip back up. Test operation prior to reinstalling in the car. You don't want it binding or falling apart. Reinstall the power window regulator to the car and enjoy. Cheers 🍻

I replaced the heater core outlets on my 1998 C34 Stagea Series 2. This guide was absolutely spot on. Apart from getting the evaporator out this is a pretty easy job for you to do by yourself at home. I reckon it took me 3 to 4 hours tops. I got replacement heater core outlets from Boostdoc: https://www.boostdoc.com.au/. Very well made and highly recommend them. Note they are angled slightly differently to the factory plastic outlets but they fit and getting zero leaks - Aaron @ Boostdoc says that they are angled that way so the hoses sit flatter against the firewall inside the engine bay and give more clearance behind the head. Only additions that I would have to this guide / little things couldn't seem to find solid info on or missed in my homework: 1) BEFORE you start, get yourself some new cabin filters if you haven't changed them recently - mine looked like they had been there since '98... Repco RCF708 fits, equivalent of Ryco RCA318P. Also give the evaporator unit a clean with a compressor and/or vacuum cleaner while it's out of the car. 2) With hindsight removing the passenger seat probably would have made this a more comfortable job to do, especially when you're removing the heater core outlets or trying to remove the plastic tab holding the core in. 3) The heater core itself is fully alloy. Got some pics of it installed as well as that plastic clip that was mentioned in the guide. I tried to be gentle with it and it snapped. The hooked end in the pic was closest to the firewall. Not sure if it's hinged or like that on the other side as well. I'm not worried about the core going anywhere.