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Update, compression tested all cylinders, all consistent across the board except for having absolutely no compression in cyl 3. Stuck a camera down the bore and turned the crank manually, and it can be seen that one of the intake valves does not seat back into place properly as the valves on other bores do. However clearances are totally within spec.

Any noise like what is in my original video?

So i ended up finding some other people who have had similar problems, I should add that the rocker covers were off for about a month and i had just covered the cams with cloth to keep shit from getting in there. Both of the following posts are seen to be due to noise in the cover due to oil starvation in the head, but the question would be how can i safely get oil into the head without revving the shit out of it like the guys in the youtube video and risk the whole motor? https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/366218-desperate-need-help-rb26-knock-not-bottom-end-video.html

Dobz, i did mate, only about a quarter of a turn to get it lined back up with the mark, i will be checking clearances when i get the chance this weekend.

Yes at this point i have no idea what the timing was like before i took the belt off. No fix yet, i have taken the spark plugs out and stuck a camera down each cylinder, from what it looks like i may be getting some piston slap in cylinder 2 as there is a slight mark on the piston where the first intake valve is. How that would have occurred i have no clue and i also have no idea how to fix it.

Thanks for the replies ben, so What your saying would just avoid a valve hitting a piston when i turned the cams back without the belt, would that cause a significant enough clearance issue? I dont recall hearing anything ever hitting something else when doing the job but it could be possible now that youve said that.

I didnt have the marks lined up when i removed the old belt so once it was removed, i had to turn the cam gears and crank to line up with their marks. In doing this i made sure that when lining up all the marks that the no.1 piston was at TDC of the compression stroke. Which is how it is all supposed to go together to my inderstanding.

Didn't work unfortunately.

I havn't ben, would it not matter as the CAS is a rotational sensor and doesnt read depth?

Hey guys, really need some help now. I recently have finished my 100k service on my RB26 and have gone to set the timing to 20deg on the motor using the timing light. Upon starting the car up i hear a knock, sounding very metallic maybe coming from the 2nd or 3rd cylinder. I quickly scrambled to check if i could see the timing marks on the crank pulley with the light and i could only see them if the CAS was turned clockwise all the way and the mark on the housing only lined up with the 7th mark on the pulley. I tore the engine down again to inspect my cam and crank positions in regards to the reference marks and they were absolutely spot on. The engine when setting up the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys is at TDC of the compression stroke as the tip of the cam lobes face directly left and right respectively meaning the vales are shut. I have an Apexi power FC and splitfire coilpacks if that means anything 20181123_131003.mp4

Hey guys, My timing belt service was going really great untill i turned the car on and heard a knock.. couldnt even see the timing marks on the crank pulley with a timing light. When aligning the cam gears and crank with the timing belt, they were almost perfect. However could the above symptoms be an effect of crank or a cam gear being off by one tooth? Cheers

Reviving old thread, Did you find that your AUTO8 starter did the job hardsteppa? Im looking at getting a new starter at the moment since mine has gone bust.

Hey guys, So i have an intermittent issue with my RB26 where the starter motor sounds like it is free spinning and scraping on the fly wheel (maybe?) it is a very distinct loud screeching sound. it only happens maybe once in every 8 starts. But im curious to know if anyone has installed and aftermarket starter or should i oull it out and give it a clean? Cheers

So i have done a PPSR and DIRD check and have also gone to inspect the car. Numbers on both reports match up, it was complied and registered in Victoria once before. It is not currently registered though. However when i went to inspect that car, he only plate/ sticker i could find is the Japanese VIN plate. As the car has been resprayed i could not find anything else in the door jams and further more the Australian VIN (starting with 6u9000) Was engraved in the strut tower, not stamped and riveted on a plate like most ive seen. If it has import paperwork but no import sticker it would still be able to be registered correct?

Hi guys, Im currently looking a a car to purchase however it does not can an Australian vin number plate (the long rectangular stamped alloy one), however it has the blue japanese compliance plate. Can the car be registered on the road in Melbourne if it does not have this australian vin tag? Cheers, Michael