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Everything posted by SLVRBAKSLPZ

  1. Thx man. I bought the Haltech one for a Z32 thinking it would fir and it doesn't. I will get the one from PRP as it states its a direct fit on the stock plenum.
  2. All What aftermarket fast response air sensor fits the stock RB26 plenum location? I bought the Haltech one for Z32 and it doesn't fit. Is everyone just up-sizing the hole?
  3. did you use the pull up at all? and whats your filter level?
  4. Ok thx all. Just gave me some assurance. Those numbers were way off compared to the fuel sender how-to, which made me 2nd guess my findings.
  5. What voltage are you guy getting on your fuel sender? When i checked mine the Ohms read proper. When i plugged up to check the voltage i was getting very super low numbers (Full 0.02 // half 0.13 // Empty 0.42.
  6. Only solution i have is find where the black wire ends in the cluster area and splice off it / splice and run a wire from the tank to the cluster / buy the fuel sender conditioner
  7. Are the wire colors from the fuel tank match the wires colors of pin 7/55?
  8. Far as the fuel reading it looks like you should be using pin 7 and 55
  9. I will investigate soon. I also have to see if my voltage setting are correct as well once I fill up.
  10. Rt. I will keep both hooked up and see with one reads the most accurate. As of now I feel like the oem to dash is better. My fuel level conditioner does a weird thing where it reads high then levels out after about 30secs. Im sure its something I can adjust in the ecu. The oem just reads the level instantly
  11. I wired mine up about an hr ago and it worked.. The the red/gray wire for signal (i used pin 18 The teal wire is the ground for pin 30 Make sure to select the correct channel for the AVI you used. And use 90-0 ohm The you select the spot on your dash for the fuel level choose the AVI, not fuel level. You still are required to adjust the voltage.
  12. Gonna need the fuel level sender conditioner. Haltech makes one On Haltech ECUs the signal wire goes into one of the AVI inputs
  13. Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions. Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.
  14. Lol i get it man. Its like all the landscapers with $h!tțy yards. It took a bit to figure out the wiring and what all was need as the speedo converts some signals. Overall it was an easy task once it was all clear. Scan thru this post. I posted a link on a how-to for the fuel sender. Speedo wiring to the aftermarket calibrator/ charge light info is in here as well You will have to wire the hi-beams/turn signals/e-brake/parking light directly to the units connectors (IC-7). I took pics of the back of my oem cluster which is used to find which wires I needed to t-tap into. Sorry I dont remember the colors of them. The HVAC/shifter surround is from Garage Yoshida
  15. Gotta drill holes then install. Remove the rubber pads off the clutch/brake pedals. Line up and use the countersunk hole off your new pedal for pilot hole references. Do the same for the gas pedal. Fairly easy I got new pedals from Performance Pedals. They have a universal installation guide which will be similar.
  16. I just took leads from the ignition 12v/charge light and ran them to the factory bulb. I just tucked the bulb near the blinker relay
  17. I replaced my lenses on my 33 with Behrman's. They are clear and fit like OEM. you shouldn't have issues
  18. I personally didn't have issue with this. The parking light chime came on w/o the OEM cluster plugged in. May be an issue only for the R34s Additionally, I ran leads from the charge wire and ignition +12v to the factory bulb. I just bent the small leads off the bulb and wrapped the wires around them. I then just taped it all together. Its just dangling near the blinker relay. It's a temp fix that I'm sure will be permanent after I forget about it.
  19. Will Do! Still waiting on the cluster surround from 3D Race Solutions. It will get delivered next week. I'll take some proper snaps once my interior is all buttoned up.
  20. I got my IC-7 hooked up. Fuel Level and the speedo are now GTG. The Haltech fuel sender conditioner is easy to setup. just need to get the voltage for empty/full and plug it in the the ECU. I ended up using the SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface w/bluetooth. Easy to install once I figured out the wire color of the speed sender wires. The Dakota Digital app is alot easier to use then on the module. Just calibrate while using a GPS speedo app. There are seven different setups for the speedo. #6 is what is used. Once I got the speed set the gear indicator/ ODO/ trip on the IC-7 moved properly as well. I installed a fresh speedo sender as well. You can also use the Haltech GPS module, but its not for use with the Platinum Pro software unless you wire in a pull-down resistor off the DPI input. Hi-Beam / turn signals / E-brake are gtg as well. I will wire up a new oil pressure sensor at a later date.
  21. I looked again with good light and the Wires are Y/P and R/Gray. They go into pins 15 and 17 on the plug B. Pin 16 Y/Green go to pin 53 on the ECU loom.
  22. Ok looks like I need an aftermarket reluctor to set the speed properly as it changes the signal to digital. I think I will buy the Dakota Digital one and see how it works. The fuel sender reqs a fuels sender filter so the gauge reads properly. The GPS uses the DPI input on the Haltech Aux harness
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