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meX

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About meX

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    Rank: RB20E

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    R32 GTR
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    meX

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  1. Yes it was a bit of "luck" in a "bad luck" situation (sorry don't know how to spell that correct in english :D). First of all there was a destroyed water hose behind the idle control valve and under the intake manifold, which we had to fix. After removing the manifold and idle control valve we saw, that there was a big leakage between the manifold of themselve and the throttle bodys. It was clearly to see on 4 of the 6 cylinders. Further there were 2 small hoses going to the front from the intake manifold (they were connected under the manifold) in which 1 of them was "blind" but not closed. So there was a leakage too. Second step was removing the turbo system; turbo, manifold, wastegate & downpipe in which we also recognized a pretty small leakage at cylinder nr. 6 on the end but this was a minor leakage. Anyways, we fixed the water hoses and so on and reinstalled everything as it should be. fter a few test drives with some different cars and a few sleepless nights like "thinking what should i do", i decided to sell the current system and go back to a smaller one and different components. I went for a 6 boost manifold and 2 turbo smart 40mm wastegates to have a "real" twinscroll system and a new downpipe. Hopefully that this system is now bringing the driving style what I want to have. We also decided to keep the camshafts for first with the smaller turbo, to test the capability of them if they work or not. If the summary is not good at all, we will change the camshaft to OEM ones. It was a lot of work already and I dont wanted to put out the camshafts immidiately bevor testing them with the new turbo on the dyno and real life. That's now the actual situation. Let's see what happens.
  2. Hey Lithium, you were right; the car had some issues and there was a big leakage beginning from the intake manifold and some minor other points in the turbo system. I think that was one of the main reasons why this thing was not working correct. If you have a leakage in 4 of 6 cylinders at the intake, its possible that it cannot work well, haha. Anyways, after a frustrating work i changed the system. I just hope that i reach my targets and then it should be fine. This time, without leakage ?
  3. I'm gonna change my setup now. The PT6466 System is going for sale because I'm looking for a different driving style. Will try the EFR 7670 with a 1.05 EWG and a 6 boost manifold with 2x40mm wastegates and im curious to see what it's gonna be. Aim is to come close to 550 engine horses on 100 octan. Hope it brings some fresh wind
  4. I will speak to my friend and we will make another slight remap try with the OEM cams. May this helps a little bit and will also talk about that with the tuner again. Some people here are also mentioning that it's a point of optimization of the timing, so I'm going to ask them also. Sorry for the Missunderstanding. I didn't mean that the tuner is not familiar with high horse power turbo applications. They are if its depending on a stock RB26, because they say, that the engine will probably/mabye break immidiately after tuning it in his stock. That's why they did it on 1.25 bars or 17-18 PSI. My personal wish was to go for 1.7 Bars (~ 25 PSI) because there are still the stock valve springs in the head and to reach a good power target. But they did not go for because of the stock engine. There are Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors installed and R8 coils and also a Nismo Fuel Pump. We will also re-check the system, if there is any miss installation, leakage etc. to clarify that technically is everything okay. But it seems like that because for it's boost level it's in general not performing that bad. If the power comes, there is a lot of power for sure. It's just that you feel that until the 5k rpm mark is nearly nothing especially when you drive on serpentines, hillclimbs etc. It's always like you have to wait from a big nowhere when you shift down or up until it's responsive and serious accelerate again. Here is the summary, please keep the eye on the red and blue line which is ending in the 612 horses. Not the one down to that. Thats how it actually works on the dyno. We did not try this yet. but it's also a good tip. Thank you.
  5. First of all i want to thank you guys for your quick and kind replys. I'm sorry for not introducing myself in advance. As a "inkognito" reading person since a few years, I thought it's my last chance here, to get some serios impressions and feedback from people, which may tried it by themselfs already. Here in the EU, I generally getting in troubles to find the right persons for feedback of first hand experiences. A lot of talkers are also available here and that's making it a bit difficult to find answers.. From my side there is not so much worth to know about. The Skyline was like "oh wow that cars looks awesome" since i was a child. Some years later I was able to fulfill my wishes and at the moment I'm a very proud owner of a R34 GTR Vspec 1999, which is nearly completely stock and of the R32 GTR, which is more or less my "project" car, what i want with more power. So enough from my personal side, thank you already for the answers and I want to make some remarks and comments to them. I cannot promise you that it's running @ 18 PSI it's also possible that its 17 PSI (i know it's 1,25bars^^) but as Ohno1 already said, does the PSI's matter really that much, that it's coming so late? I still have my OEM cams in my cellar lying behind the standard turbos^^, does it makes sense to reinstall them again? At least as Dale mentioned before i want to poste some short pictures of the car to bring you a better overview. The 6466 sits in front. I got HKS adjustable gears and the 272 degrees cams on the stock bottom end Engine with Metal Head gasket (1,5mm) and ARP bolts. The turbo runs on twinscroll but with only 1 wastegate, the screamer pipe is closed (I wont survive the police here in normal traffic with that) and from the turbo, there is a 4" downpipe to a GESI UHO KAT with 4" and than the 3.5" HKS muffler system. Please have patience with me, i know it's not looking pretty but at least, it was important that it will run, before it's getting pretty :D. And as i've seen right now, it's a .84 AR - my bad. In principle, thats it. If it helps you to provide a dyno sheet than i would send it via PN but I wont make it open here officially for everyone in an absolut public part of a forum. At least the car is running smooth so far. It's just the f**king laziness, what i did not expected from the setup. Could you find some points according to that which is maybe improveable or is it really just the topic with the "eco boost" variant, which kills my system right now? To go back to twins would be the last choice for me, because than, everything needs to get changed again and secondly, i will get quicker in to the red line of the "power reserve" that i have right now.. In general i was happy with the work, because the car was really not the beauty and it should get better step by step. If you are now getting me like, try to turn up the boost. Than i have to talk with my mapper. They were not that familiar to boost the stock engine more than it actually is with the ~ 598 NM on the engine. Best regards meX PS: If one of the adminstrator wants to make me a seperat topic, than i will go forward to create one :).
  6. hey, thank you for your quick replys. I have to check the rear A/R but if i remember right it was the .84 but I will ask again for that Info. But at least, im not sure if this would change so much on the topic of the spool? At least the topic from feedmyfast is helpful yes, but he was also running on E85 and i think there is a huge difference between 100 octan and E85 setups? Thats also why I as here for some experiences with 100 Octan. To put a smaller Turbine on the System until it's modified with the 2.8 stroker seems the only possible way i think, but i wont take another turbo which causes that much frustration after investing those amount of money like before. Further i have to add that my head is also stock, except the head studs and the head gasket. There is also an N1 oil pump installed and a baffle plate in the sump. Maybe the 6466 is even too big for the actual stock bottom end RB26 but afterwards it may fit with the stroker. In the meantime i want to get out the best what i can, like those twin setups some mates are driving with a very toxic responsivness on the street. I know the vids from MotiveDVD pretty well and this analysis was also a reason, why i've chosen the single setup instead of a twin before the tuning shop was building the car. If there are some experiences please let me know. Would be great So far, have a good time guys!
  7. Good afternoon Volks, please let me grab out this old topic and try to get some experienced answers from your side for my little problem i got. Engine is a Stock RB26 with metal head gasket and stuff (stock bottom end) except HKS 272 degrees camshafts and on that is sitting a PT 6466 CEA Gen2 TwinScroll with a VBand 0.82 A/R outlet (1 Wastegate). In sum, im actually pretty unhappy with the spool and the driving style. I've got at around 612 HP @18 PSI but the spool at ca. 5,5K rpm is horrible for street drives. The car runs on petrol with 100 octan (E85 is not possible here, no gas stations available hard to organize etc.). The problem i got is the bad spool and responsivness of the car. It is generally driven on the streets and in the hills, where i need a fast spool and good power band more than everything else and after driving in corners, with this kind of spool, it's feeling like that you shift everytime in a big nowhere. Now i want to come back to my question. Im thinking about a setup change/switch but im not pretty sure, which is maybe the best solution and therefore I want to please you with some experiences. The first option would be to get another Single from Precision which may fits on the actual Manifold etc. or go back to like Twin Setup HKS GT-SS with a good spool but than, i have to change from the single setup (manifold etc.) to the twin. Are there people here which may have experiences with a PT 5862 or a PT 5858 on 100 Octans for this application? I see some dyno sheets here but the most were done on E85, which is not comparable to the 100octans. I think that it's maybe also possible to just switch the turbo, until the Stroker is done and the head ported. But im still struggling, if this brings the final aim, that i have with the responsivness The Aim is to get >600 horses at the engine on 100 octans, but the most important is a good responsivness with a good power band. Friends of mine are driving those 2860-5 and HKS GT-SS Turbos in their r32 gtr's, on the same base and compared to their quick spool, they are completely different cars, but in the street and for some open time track days, it makes even more fun to drive with them. If there's someone who can help, it would be great. Thank you guys and stay safe
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