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Everything posted by toranarod

  1. pull the valve cover off and look at the cam lobs could be a scuffed can lobe. look at the buckets do not pull the motor out or down. could also be a collapsed vale spring I bet it can be fix with a top end inspection.
  2. Painted the engine bay with the motor in. No over spray on the engine so fiddly took hours and hours.
  3. engine bay RED. Seam sealer next then back together
  4. under body silver I am going with for a cleaner look. 2 Pack bare metal etch Primer going on the repair area both towers
  5. Finally today i have completed the metal work. I start paint preparation next I have had enough Welding for now.
  6. Yes I was a fan of the 260z 2+2 loved them. Did you ever see what happen to the Nissan Bluebirds?
  7. at last putting back together
  8. Rust protection then after welding cavity inhibitor. If the weather is good tomorrow start putting the tops back on
  9. The whole point of this work is RUST so I have been treating all metal surfaces with a zinc phosphate pre-primer metal etcher called RustBlast before paint priming with a welding copper primer. What do you gurus out there think about this as a procedure before i commit to the return of the panels? I don't know what treatment to trust my car to.
  10. Way back before I removed the first spot weld I spent a kings ransom on buying paints and chemicals for the job not being really sure what i would find and how deep i would need to dig. This is available on eBay. I am in Vic and we have only been able to buy on line as all or retail is locked down Sika Sikaflex 527 AT White Specialist Hybrid Car Body Sealant 300ml. Automotive. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sika-Sikaflex-527-AT-White-Specialist-Hybrid-Car-Body-Sealant-300ml-Automotive/173381054429?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 work as of yeasterday
  11. This is the same noise. I found the problem I am not sure how to explain it. check the direction of the wast gate actuator control valve. This is going to sound very stage. But what the noise was on my GTT was the wast gate actuator was opening the wastage only a little bit creating a condition where hot air was flowing past the gate like air over a whistle like a a church organ works or a steam train blowing it whistle. I kid you not. It was so loud it was defining I even went out a purchased a new turbo That I never fitted . just because I had a small valve the wrong way around.
  12. I had the same problem. it came about after i reassembled the turbo
  13. This is where its up to at the moment. still lots of cleaning to do.
  14. SR Autobodies mentions a rust prevention and converter in one of his Videos called "Rust i Sol" Anybody in Australia able to obtain this product I cannot find it. Metaflux Rust-i-Sol
  15. To keep the job moving I watch one of the SR Autobodies videos. That guy and his Videos have been so helpful not just for inspiration but tip and trick about panel separation and rust prevention. https://www.facebook.com/230766920921566/videos/590784358186675
  16. This is true. I apologies for my previous post, making such a blanket statement. They’re going to many with no rust to just a bit and then like my red one got it bad. I to own a second r34 that is almost factory condition was real barn find. No rust and all straight under the floor and on the chassis rails. Like you I plan to keep it that way.
  17. I very sad to see the awesome cars suffering from time taking its toll. Sometimes I think of it like this the sooner I start the body restoration rust prevention the better I will at lest be ahead of every body else. Every body who owns a skyline that wants to keep it for the future will come to this work kicking and screaming. As a great musician once said "Rust never sleeps, Neil Young". Then with the prices of theses cars going up so fast its making this work worth while. this is what she looks like on the outside.
  18. Would you like the phone number of my therapist maybe we can get a group discount. It is my fault Sorry.
  19. I have spent many hours under the car I pulled it apart before I got the RWC for the owner transfer. YES there is rust in other places. Soon as I have finished the strut towers I will show you where else. I intend to remove as much as possible and treat what i cannot. Then just manage things as years go by. The other point is no accidents damage that i can find she is nice and straight all the panels and door line up looks great on the out side.
  20. the left side not as bad as the right
  21. Did some more work today if anybody is interested in do the same thing. started fitting the replacement
  22. I am only a weekend car fixer up guy just learned a lot of DIY car repairs over the years. When I started unpicking the spot welds and saw the damage I got a little cold sweat happening this is a bit outside my pay grade. What fazed me was the top plate that needed replacing was under 3 other layers of panels. Just like the JDM guys in the UK they need to be removed. That link to the UK Restoration on the R33 was very helpful they have covered the job with so many great photos I was able to plan and get off cuts I might need. Thank you for the links to that page DaymoR32. I almost purchased the new panels from them but I knew I would need more of the steel around that area and landed in Aus the top panels would be 600 dollars or more and I might f**k it up so best to go with second hand off cut.
  23. it feels like a aeroplane committed to take off when the front wheel falls off??
  24. I think you are totally correct. This is one is going to be my daily driver my fun car being a turbo and It was cheap for a GTT. I purchased the car knowing what was a head for restoration . My other one is one owner since imported and has low Ks and been garaged for 8 years the difference in condition is chalk and cheese and will remain in the garage as a fine example of what once was. The Gtt damage from rust and neglect is heart breaking and the rebuilding will be hard work. Working on a car is the only way to make it feel like its your car.
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