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About ossy

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  1. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but that's still not right either? Does like nice though. The real lip looks like this. On most reps, that center bit where I've drawn the red line on the first pic either goes in abit or is missing the center two vents entirely. The picture above is what the real thing looks like. The 400R bumpers also use same front indicators as a GTR.
  2. Yeah, these should be good and that front bumper looks alright to be honest. The bottom lip is still a bit different to the real thing though. Just needs the center section fiberglassing/building up so it's flush with the rest to look like the real thing but if you like it, all's good.
  3. You'll need 400R style reps of the rear bumper, skirts and arches which are easily available for GTSTs but the front bumper will be the tricky bit. You'll also need a GTR spoiler which is not exactly the same but close enough. The replica front bumpers that most people get have a different bottom lip and look kinda ugly if you ask me. The center section is raised up and is missing the center vents. There are reps that look like the real thing but very rare to come by, expensive and usually for a GTR. To fit one of them, you'll need GTR front wings and headlight spacers. Aftermarket wider wings will work but you'll lose some of the 400R look obviously. Other option I can think of is you buy a 400R lip, and mould it on the GTST rep, which may need cutting and shortening slightly.
  4. Nope, that's the first thing I checked and thought of as well lol. Also unsure if related but for a while now, my indicators are hyperflashing but work fine when using hazards.
  5. I'll try getting a multimeter as I dont have one but not sure how to do it and what I need to look for to be honest. I've managed to get the lights looking alot more even and not ridicilous looking anymore so that's good. The driver side looked like as if the brake lights were on before. I cleaned inside of the passenger tail light lenses as much as I could and replaced the loom with the new one I got from the driver side and they both helped greatly. I've also checked the plug connectors, bulbs, bulb holders, looms and the ground near the boot latch and all look fine. Confused what else it could be effecting the brightness.
  6. Hi, I recently replaced the driver side tail light on my R33 as it was damaged/leaky... still leaking somewhat annoyingly. Anyway, checked to see if all the bulbs work before fitting trims and noticed both driver side rings are much much brighter than the passenger side. I've tried using my old tail light loom and bulbs as well but still the same. Any ideas why this has happened or how I can sort it? Thanks.
  7. Didn't time it of course but would say it was definitely faster than usual as my NA R33 has always had performance issues where it feels like it goes into limp mode at times but acceleration from low RPM was always sluggish. It bogs down a lot, as if something is limiting the power but this made it pick up revs and speed so easily... There is the fact that maybe more air helped fix whatever performance issues I have that's effecting my power lol. Since you mentioned it though, oddly the sound didn't change at all? Shouldn't it make this weird turbo/supercharger like spool sound with the air box removed or throatier atleast? Or is that sound only happen with the intake resonator removed?
  8. Tbh on a NA skyline, wouldn't a pod filter make a decent difference, especially if using a heatshield and cold air ducting? I've got a NA R33 and gave it a quick run yesterday without the airbox lid and then with filter removed as well and it made quite a big power difference. Was much more responsive and acceleration uphill was waay better. Put it back together and fitted my GTST snorkel but didnt seem to do anything noticable in comparison to the smaller NA snorkel but would imagine there would be slightly better and cooler airflow. Might be worth trying it after all.
  9. Bumping an old thread. So.... Anyone know what bumper this is?
  10. Thanks, will go for the Walbro. Heard same from few others also. Don't really trust the Kemso, seems waaay too cheap at only half the price.
  11. Hi, I've got a R33 RB25de that has some running issues and believe the fuel pump is buggered. I believe the NA pumps are same as GTST's but can't find any online, except uprated ones like 255lph Walbro or 340lph Kemso. I was going to buy one of these but was told they may make the car run lean and that the stock fuel regulator might not be able to handle the increased pressure. Any recommendations/ideas if either the Walbro or Kemso pumps will work without causing any problems? Thanks.
  12. I think it may need to be fitted on top of those boot/trunk infill spoilers that people fit when removing the GTR spoiler which levels the rear out and this would then sit on top of that.
  13. Hi, Will swapping an R33 spec2 airbag steering wheel and HICAS clockspring for a spec1 non airbag steering wheel and non HICAS clockspring going to cause any problems? Also is it a direct swap, ect? Regarding the HICAS, some say to remove the small plug off the HICAS ECU to remove the light but will this disable/disconnect it also? Want to know if this is an alternative method of disabling HICAS instead of fitting a lockout bar. Also, which colour wire is it for the foglight indicator stalk switch? Thanks.
  14. It's always bugged me aswell but I'm sure it's normal. My purple R33 has it and so does my brothers. I've also seen several others at car meets as well. I tried to get a close up of the same angle if it helps.
  15. Pretty sure that's normal, it's the side camera angle and the white paint making it look weird I think. My R33 has the same sort of gap aswell if I look at it from a similer angle. Mines purple with a black boot so not as noticable.
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