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About ossy

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  1. I Haha sorry but still confused lol. That thread is about changing gearboxes and the needed parts but nothing about fly wheels, etc. I'm keeping my gearbox, just wanting to upgrade/change my clutch as its slipping. @Blakeo Arent they the same sizes? Was unsure about the number of teeth and bolt pattern. I've read other posts on here saying RB20Dets and Rb25dets both have 240mm flywheels. so I thought a 3piece Rb25det clutch should fit in that case.
  2. Hi, I've got an R33 rb25de manual and need a new clutch. Will an RB25det clutch be a direct fit or will I need the det flywheel as well? I know this has been asked a couple of times but they are old threads and couldnt find a definite answer on them. Some posts say yes but some say no so confused lol.
  3. ? Reallly?!? ...well where exactly? Lol. Had the main dash and steering surround off the other day and couldn't see any screws/clips at all to remove the lower trim. Can only see one screw that can be seen in the pictures above, just below the left side of the speedo but that doesn't seem to loosen it at all.
  4. I need to do the same with mine. How do you remove the lower dash trim under the steering wheel that covers all the area underneath?
  5. Timing is possibly out? I've got a R33 that was doing the exact same thing and I couldn't figure it out for a looong time. Some times power was great and other times it drove like crap. Took it too some Skyline specialists and turns timing was out badly and the fuel pump was leaking back into the fuel tank so wasn't getting enough fuel either. Mine had a new timing belt done by the previous owner as well but didn't do it properly
  6. Fronts are definatly 280mm and rears are 265mm. These are available from UK from several sites, even Ebay, but imagine shipping will be stupidly expensive but maybe worth a try getting some quotes. Also not sure but NA R34's may use the same sized disks. If so, you could maybe get them and have them redrilled to fit a 4stud bolt pattern?
  7. Out of curiosity, what are good figures for a compression test?
  8. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but that's still not right either? Does like nice though. The real lip looks like this. On most reps, that center bit where I've drawn the red line on the first pic either goes in abit or is missing the center two vents entirely. The picture above is what the real thing looks like. The 400R bumpers also use same front indicators as a GTR.
  9. Yeah, these should be good and that front bumper looks alright to be honest. The bottom lip is still a bit different to the real thing though. Just needs the center section fiberglassing/building up so it's flush with the rest to look like the real thing but if you like it, all's good.
  10. You'll need 400R style reps of the rear bumper, skirts and arches which are easily available for GTSTs but the front bumper will be the tricky bit. You'll also need a GTR spoiler which is not exactly the same but close enough. The replica front bumpers that most people get have a different bottom lip and look kinda ugly if you ask me. The center section is raised up and is missing the center vents. There are reps that look like the real thing but very rare to come by, expensive and usually for a GTR. To fit one of them, you'll need GTR front wings and headlight spacers. Aftermarket wider wings will work but you'll lose some of the 400R look obviously. Other option I can think of is you buy a 400R lip, and mould it on the GTST rep, which may need cutting and shortening slightly.
  11. Nope, that's the first thing I checked and thought of as well lol. Also unsure if related but for a while now, my indicators are hyperflashing but work fine when using hazards.
  12. I'll try getting a multimeter as I dont have one but not sure how to do it and what I need to look for to be honest. I've managed to get the lights looking alot more even and not ridicilous looking anymore so that's good. The driver side looked like as if the brake lights were on before. I cleaned inside of the passenger tail light lenses as much as I could and replaced the loom with the new one I got from the driver side and they both helped greatly. I've also checked the plug connectors, bulbs, bulb holders, looms and the ground near the boot latch and all look fine. Confused what else it could be effecting the brightness.
  13. Hi, I recently replaced the driver side tail light on my R33 as it was damaged/leaky... still leaking somewhat annoyingly. Anyway, checked to see if all the bulbs work before fitting trims and noticed both driver side rings are much much brighter than the passenger side. I've tried using my old tail light loom and bulbs as well but still the same. Any ideas why this has happened or how I can sort it? Thanks.
  14. Didn't time it of course but would say it was definitely faster than usual as my NA R33 has always had performance issues where it feels like it goes into limp mode at times but acceleration from low RPM was always sluggish. It bogs down a lot, as if something is limiting the power but this made it pick up revs and speed so easily... There is the fact that maybe more air helped fix whatever performance issues I have that's effecting my power lol. Since you mentioned it though, oddly the sound didn't change at all? Shouldn't it make this weird turbo/supercharger like spool sound with the air box removed or throatier atleast? Or is that sound only happen with the intake resonator removed?
  15. Tbh on a NA skyline, wouldn't a pod filter make a decent difference, especially if using a heatshield and cold air ducting? I've got a NA R33 and gave it a quick run yesterday without the airbox lid and then with filter removed as well and it made quite a big power difference. Was much more responsive and acceleration uphill was waay better. Put it back together and fitted my GTST snorkel but didnt seem to do anything noticable in comparison to the smaller NA snorkel but would imagine there would be slightly better and cooler airflow. Might be worth trying it after all.
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