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About ossy

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  1. Thanks guys, I'll give the lightweight ago. If I still have problems, then I may give the heavy one a try but will keep my eye out for a gtst box. It's not going to be trashed or anything so should last a while. GTSBoy, you sold me on the lightweight with that lmao
  2. Well that sounds like mine so I'll try out the lightweight instead of the normal stuff. Is the heavyweight not recommended then?
  3. Hi, Which gearbox oil would be recommended for me to use, Redline shockproof lightweight or heavyweight? It's for a R33 RB25DE that will be getting turbo conversion soon. Planning on using this gearbox, so want to make it last unless I can find a GTST one for a decent price. Doubt the oil has ever been changed lol. I'm able to shift fine when changing gears slowly but if I change quickly, it'll usually crunches 1st to 2nd and 4th to 5th. Would this be classed as slightly bad or really really bad? It doesn't pop out of gears or anything as other posts and threads say. Also I've noticed alot of these gearbox oil threads threads are a couple of years old now. Has anything changed since and is a better oil available or is Redline still the best to go for? Thanks.
  4. My NA R33 used to have most of the same issues you listed and was waaay slower than it should be but I had a couple of faults all together causing this. Weirdly it didnt show an engine management light or any codes though. Possibly some things for you to look at... First of all I did a compression test for the peace of mind and so I'm not wasting money, which was all good. The AFM was faulty (wires were corroded) so replaced with another one and fuel pump was also buggered, which was leaking inside the tank so I upgraded to a 255 walbro. The TPS and IACV needed cleaning and adjusting. Also the timing was out (originally thought it was the CAS also) and was all over the place when plugged in... The timing belt itself and tensioners were in a bad state so had a timing belt kit done. Runs spot on now, no problems at all and has all the lost power back.
  5. Awesome, thanks. Simpler than expected to be honest. Thought there were 2 wires that needed swapping around also but possibly getting confused with something else.
  6. Hi, I've got an R33 RB25DE (spec 2 engine) and will be carrying out a RB25DE+T conversion. Will be using most of the stock turbo GTST parts and ecu on it, no crazy power expectations. What needs modifying on the stock NA loom to suit a RB25DET conversion? Unable to find a good DET loom for sale in UK and tried searching but can't find any proper answers on this, not even an ECU pinout diagram for a RB25DE. I've got most of the stock gtst parts already so might aswell make use of them and already has gtst brakes, clutch and uprated walbro pump fitted.
  7. I Haha sorry but still confused lol. That thread is about changing gearboxes and the needed parts but nothing about fly wheels, etc. I'm keeping my gearbox, just wanting to upgrade/change my clutch as its slipping. @Blakeo Arent they the same sizes? Was unsure about the number of teeth and bolt pattern. I've read other posts on here saying RB20Dets and Rb25dets both have 240mm flywheels. so I thought a 3piece Rb25det clutch should fit in that case.
  8. Hi, I've got an R33 rb25de manual and need a new clutch. Will an RB25det clutch be a direct fit or will I need the det flywheel as well? I know this has been asked a couple of times but they are old threads and couldnt find a definite answer on them. Some posts say yes but some say no so confused lol.
  9. ? Reallly?!? ...well where exactly? Lol. Had the main dash and steering surround off the other day and couldn't see any screws/clips at all to remove the lower trim. Can only see one screw that can be seen in the pictures above, just below the left side of the speedo but that doesn't seem to loosen it at all.
  10. I need to do the same with mine. How do you remove the lower dash trim under the steering wheel that covers all the area underneath?
  11. Timing is possibly out? I've got a R33 that was doing the exact same thing and I couldn't figure it out for a looong time. Some times power was great and other times it drove like crap. Took it too some Skyline specialists and turns timing was out badly and the fuel pump was leaking back into the fuel tank so wasn't getting enough fuel either. Mine had a new timing belt done by the previous owner as well but didn't do it properly
  12. Fronts are definatly 280mm and rears are 265mm. These are available from UK from several sites, even Ebay, but imagine shipping will be stupidly expensive but maybe worth a try getting some quotes. Also not sure but NA R34's may use the same sized disks. If so, you could maybe get them and have them redrilled to fit a 4stud bolt pattern?
  13. Out of curiosity, what are good figures for a compression test?
  14. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but that's still not right either? Does like nice though. The real lip looks like this. On most reps, that center bit where I've drawn the red line on the first pic either goes in abit or is missing the center two vents entirely. The picture above is what the real thing looks like. The 400R bumpers also use same front indicators as a GTR.
  15. Yeah, these should be good and that front bumper looks alright to be honest. The bottom lip is still a bit different to the real thing though. Just needs the center section fiberglassing/building up so it's flush with the rest to look like the real thing but if you like it, all's good.
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