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ossy

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About ossy

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    Rank: RB20DE

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  1. It's always bugged me aswell but I'm sure it's normal. My purple R33 has it and so does my brothers. I've also seen several others at car meets as well. I tried to get a close up of the same angle if it helps.
  2. Pretty sure that's normal, it's the side camera angle and the white paint making it look weird I think. My R33 has the same sort of gap aswell if I look at it from a similer angle. Mines purple with a black boot so not as noticable.
  3. Seen some pics of R33 GTR/GTST bumpers that look like they have R34 splitters on them. The nismo ones I think... So yeah, can the R34 splitter fit an R33? I wanted a front splitter but not fond of the usual rectangular looking universal ones and quite like the shape of the R34 ones. Heres one of the pics;
  4. So anyone knkw if the readings are right or not? And why the timing is all over the place?
  5. There's no ECU faults, that's why I took and posted the video so you guys can see the readings... Better than posting a 20minute long data log file lol. I don't understand what most of the readings mean or what values they should be reading, especially the timing as it's all over the place.
  6. Hi, So I used ECU Talk and managed to get some readings but not sure what they mean. Can anyone help me out? Also I noticed that the timing is all over the place which doesn't seem normal to me. What can be the cause of that? On cold start, it's around 20 and drops to 15 as it warms up. Then whilst driving it's bouncing up and down randomly reaching 49 at one point and even -8. I've recorded a 3 minutes long showing this and other readings on a short steady drive which I'll post here below and also have the full ECU Talk log file if needed for more info which shows the readings at cold start, warming up and driving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt92Wes7hmY Thanks.
  7. I've already taken it several times and had it looked over by some mechanics but unfortunately they don't know. They're kinda useless around here if I'm honest and keep saying crap like the car is too loud so they can't tell what's wrong which is just stupid. They also ended up cutting one of the fuel lines in engine bay and had fuel spraying everywhere which I had to replace at home when I noticed fuel gauge dropping quickly after a short drive so you can see how useless they are... And the Jap/Skyline specialist places are all veerry far from me. There's no engine management light showing but I've now brought a Consult scan tool anyway so I'll give that a shot and report back. Just waiting till it arrives now... Also am I right reading that the scan tool won't read HICAS faults? If so, how do I go about doing that? And about the HICAS, it has a spec 2 steering wheel but body is spec 1. It's a 1995, so assuming spec 1.5 as some would call it? Also I did service it before trying new battery and AFM. That was changing oil, sparkplugs (was told I need BCPR6ES), filters, fluids and fitted stock airbox which helped only for a day before it lost power again the next morning. Engine sounds super smooth and healthy, no misfires so dont think it's sparkplugs or coilpacks.
  8. Hi, I'm still trying to get fix the problems and regain the lost power on my NA 2.5 R33 which is stupidly slow as if in limp mode or something... Yes its a non turbo, it's slow, its already been said but this is even worse lol. Anyway it was parked up for a few years. It drives smooth and goes through the rev range fine but the revs just seem slow to climb sometimes and is massivly underpowered. Engine sounds smooth and healthy as well. I previously gave it a full service and replaced its broken cone filter with the stock airbox and funnel. It helped for abit but lost loads of power again. I've now fitted a new larger battery and new AFM aswell which has improved it massively but it's still not there and good as it should be. It has better uphill pull throughout and the power in 1st and 2nd gear feel decent-ish again when foot down but starts to go sluggish again after that... Its feels like driving a Honda VTEC at times lol. I put foot down, theres a slow laggy build up and then the sound changes and it takes off. It's also weird, it randomly gets its power back at times and then loses it again. I don't understand what's wrong with it. Any other ideas what it could be? Some other issues aswell. It has a cold start issue and requires a few attempts and some revs to get it started. Also, the revs start to bounce up and down when I start driving when it's cold and come to a stop at red lights. Have to give it a quick rev otherwise it'll get worse and cut out. I suspect the AAC valve for the cold start up problem which I haven't gotten round to yet but can this cause the revs to bounce up and down aswell? Then there's the HICAS light which comes on everytime after 15minutes or so of driving and stays on until I switch car off. Steering seems fine so not sure if its causing any problems or not.
  9. Hi, does anyone know what this rear bumper is or help me find out? Thanks. Sorry if this is in wrong section, wasn't sure.
  10. Tbh wouldn't this increase grip, stability and somewhat reduce oversteer? Its quite the usual on MR2s, especially the later ones and mines like this also. I've had two MR2s and my current one has this setup and is way more stable and less snappy than the first.
  11. I believe theyre pretty much the same as your usual GTS/T but with the added 4WD system which is different to a GTR and as we're talking about the R34, should come without HICAS unlike other Skylines. I've heard mixed things about the suspension aswell much like you said. I think the front is GTR but GTST can fit also somehow and rear is GTST aswell. Not sure about LSDs and gearbox is different. Ratios are different for better acceleration being for non turbo and also weaker apparently but guessing internals are still similar to GTSTs so should still be pretty solid.
  12. Just curious, are R33 and R34 GTS brake disks the same? Dimensions seem to be the same If they are, are the calipers the same also or do R34s come with bigger ones?
  13. Hi, So my R33 has been running like crap and in stuck in a weird limp mode sort of thing for last few months. I made a post a while back but cant find it... It revs all the way till 7k but its like its being held back. Theres not much power and revs climb slower than they should. Anyway it was suggested I try a new afm as mine looked broken and was all taped up. Was told I need a green one as mine's a spec 1. Managed to find one and went to fit it today but the plug/connector is a different and I noticed under the tape on mine, its a pink label. Confused as I thought pinks were for spec 2 R33s?? Also I had a new bigger battery fitted to replace the dodgy tiny stock one and thats brought alot of power and torque back but still not good as it should be. Still abit rough starting up sometimes and power keeps dropping sometimes like limp mode again. Also not sure if related but since I got the car, the hicas light has been coming on instantly but since the new battery its taking ages before it comes on. Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks
  14. You've heard it a million times and annoying as it is, doing a turbo engine swap or whatever would be the best way to go. Turboing a RB20 won't make crazy power unfortunatly or be close to your expectations. If you're planning on keeping your R33 for a longtime, going for a RB25DET would be best in terms of cost, power, time, etc. If you're really set on turboing your RB20, then from the top of my head you'll be needing the following bits and probably more... Also keep in mind you probably won't be able to push anything more than 7psi of boost safely on stock internals and you'll need to upgrade your brakes and stuff aswell. Use factory or replacement turbo parts is up to you...-RB20DET/RB25DET turbo or something else-Intercooler-Uprated fuel pump-Bigger injectors-Chipped RB20DE ECU, RB20DET or something else -Manifold-Turbo downpipe, exhaust, etc-Oil & water lines
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