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About ossy

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    Rank: RB20DE
  1. Hi, So my R33 has been running like crap and in stuck in a weird limp mode sort of thing for last few months. I made a post a while back but cant find it... It revs all the way till 7k but its like its being held back. Theres not much power and revs climb slower than they should. Anyway it was suggested I try a new afm as mine looked broken and was all taped up. Was told I need a green one as mine's a spec 1. Managed to find one and went to fit it today but the plug/connector is a different and I noticed under the tape on mine, its a pink label. Confused as I thought pinks were for spec 2 R33s?? Also I had a new bigger battery fitted to replace the dodgy tiny stock one and thats brought alot of power and torque back but still not good as it should be. Still abit rough starting up sometimes and power keeps dropping sometimes like limp mode again. Also not sure if related but since I got the car, the hicas light has been coming on instantly but since the new battery its taking ages before it comes on. Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks
  2. ossy

    You've heard it a million times and annoying as it is, doing a turbo engine swap or whatever would be the best way to go. Turboing a RB20 won't make crazy power unfortunatly or be close to your expectations. If you're planning on keeping your R33 for a longtime, going for a RB25DET would be best in terms of cost, power, time, etc. If you're really set on turboing your RB20, then from the top of my head you'll be needing the following bits and probably more... Also keep in mind you probably won't be able to push anything more than 7psi of boost safely on stock internals and you'll need to upgrade your brakes and stuff aswell. Use factory or replacement turbo parts is up to you...-RB20DET/RB25DET turbo or something else-Intercooler-Uprated fuel pump-Bigger injectors-Chipped RB20DE ECU, RB20DET or something else -Manifold-Turbo downpipe, exhaust, etc-Oil & water lines
  3. Tbh I was told this is a normal and that stock brakes are crappy??? As you said, there's no feel at the start and all of a sudden everything happens in last bit. Mines a non turbo with 5 stud conversion also. A few people recommended getting a brake stopper which I'm considering trying and plus they're quite cheap. It fits in the engine bay and say it stops the flex in the firewall when braking. Makes the brakes feel stronger (more bite) and has better feel in pedal.
  4. All he asked was for some exhaust advice lol... You'd be best going for 2 and 1/4 inch piping with a decat, have a middle box and backbox to keep the drone down. It'll keep the low end power this way and maybe improve it slightly. Going any bigger and you'll start to lose power. Also not a fan of cold air filters but maybe something to look into. A few years back my bro had a RB20e R33 aswell before doing a full turbo conversion. He had the above custom exhaust too and we found the stock airbox was very restrictive aswell. Maybe a turbo airbox funnel + panel filter.
  5. There's different types of carbon fiber... It's known as wet carbon fiber if it's glossy and dry carbon fiber if it's matte/dull. The shine is resin as mentioned but it's applied differently for different properties and physical appearances. Shiny carbon fiber is much cheaper. It's easier and much cheaper to make as it doesn't need to be baked within the weaves. This makes it weaker than dry carbon and heavier but gives it a nicer finish. Non shiny (dry) carbon fiber is much, much stronger as the resin is baked within the weaves as it's being created. This is because it has less air bubbles trapped inside and less impurites this way but takes alot longer to make and therefor, costs alotmore. It also weights around 60-80% less than shiny carbon fiber. I believe for high end stuff like some supercars and racecars, they actually use dry carbon fiber to make parts super strong and much lighter and then coat it in gloss or more resin to give it a nice appearance. Basically combining the two together.
  6. True lol but this is making even less power than it should be. Every now and then it gets a decent amount of power back but after a few minutes, it'll go sluggish again.
  7. I'll try cleaning it then and hope it helps. Also to add, the car revs all the way up till limiter at 7k and drives smoothly. No misfires or any stuttering. There just doesn't seem to be any power or torque sometimes like it's being held back. The revs and speed climb up really slow when you rev it or put foot down. Does this sound like an AFM or something? Also I've been told a spec 1 green label AFM is same for both turbo and non turbo rb25's?
  8. Hmm I just thought if they fit, why not try but didnt think it's coilpacks either. Also when I replaced the cone for the stock airbox, I was going to clean the AFM but it was already super clean so didn't bother. There wasn't even a spec of dirt weirdly. Any other ideas what the problem could be?
  9. Hi guys, Do R33 spec 1 turbo (rb25det) coilpacks fit a spec 1 non turbo(rb25de)? I brought a non turbo R33 recently and it feels really sluggish, like it's in limpmode. My brothers got some spare coilpacks for his turbo R33 so was thinking of trying them out and see if they help... It's not missfiring and sounds super healthy but is hesitant for a few seconds on start up and cuts out sometimes unless I give it a quick rev. Once the car is started though, it drives smooth but it's really slow like it's in limpmode. There is hardly any power. I serviced it a few weeks back and it gained loads of power back. Replaced cone filter with stock airbox and a few days later it lost power again.
  10. Have you checked the PCV valve? I had this issue on a MR2 and a Celica and the cause was a blocked PCV valve. My exhaust was also smoking slightly whitish blue sometimes when I planted it because of this. I couldn't see it myself but I had a few friends following say so.
  11. I believe it just pushes in?? I think there's a little grove/slot that it goes into. If anyone is selling for cheap and willing to post to UK, let me know Thinking about converting the armrest storage into drink holders if I can't find one but don't really want to lose the space.
  12. That is a very rare NISMO cup holder made to fit just infront of the armrest in the little square pocket. It can be flipped around to either fit a normal drink can or a japanese drink can which is smaller. That's what the numbers 250 and 350 mean. I've been looking for one endlessly in UK
  13. So what colour is the standard one on a spec 1 non turbo R33? Also are non turbo and turbo ones the same?
  14. Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?