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Vodkashotx last won the day on August 30 2018

Vodkashotx had the most liked content!

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About Vodkashotx

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  1. I didn't wanna bring it up as I'm sure it is a shit thing to talk about. Taking some time before you hunt for work again?
  2. Is it sold? I am so confused. Even I've thought about it from time to time, I bought my GTT for 11k. If I went and dropped a second hand motor in the thing I could palm it off for what now days seems to be double what I originally paid for. Then sell the rest of the parts I have lying around and go buy a c63, m series or 370. Hell even go find a buck80 shell and drop the built motor in that for lulz.
  3. Heavy steering isn't a problem for me. But I'll just put it back in for now. I'll settle this after the motor is in. I don't need these head aches right now. No drilling and tapping needed. Uses the bottom threaded hole to secure. Highly recommend. From Hi-Octane direct. Only $100 at the moment.
  4. Do I need to put the HICAS and ABS computers back? (Which one is which?!)
  5. Hey guys, Wondering if anyone could give me some assistance; Ripped out the Hicas computer as I want to place the surge tank and pumps in the rear shelf. I have a lock out bar on the hicas system. (Yes, I'm gonna get an eliminator kit. Just want to get the motor in the car first) Is the safe to do?
  6. Push pull done, Transmission remounted, ABS delete Done, Solid engine mounts in. Knew it was too good to be true, Just realized I lost an engine mount bracket during the house move. D`:
  7. Got the push pull done finally. Cbf'd taking pics.. It's the same ol box with a different front housing and slave. Now setting up fuel system before I put the motor back in, Just wondering; Is running braided PTFE under the vehicle ok? It would make my life a million times easier than making up steel lines and feeding them through the impossible gaps (most likely drop the tank...)
  8. I keep saying it, AN fittings etc are a giant f**king rip off. I have been getting raceworks shit from cartel as its been on special all for a while. Pretty much running teflon braided everything has set me back over $1300 which I know compared to others isn't too much but seriously; I am certain they all come from the same Taiwanese factory just a different name printed on them. Can I ask why hard lines? Curious to see what you got planned.
  9. Decided to not go down the path of a head drain, I figure a good catch can setup along with the restrictors that were fitted should do the job. Once I have the motor in and I can see how much oil and its condition I'll see if it's worth returning it back to the sump. Dropped the gearbox to get ready for push/pull conversion. I won't lie in saying that I am a little hesitant to do it entirely myself as I have never actually had to use a die and tap before. The last thing I want is old butter fingers here to drill into my bell housing cock-eyed the punch thread that I am certain; Will somehow catch fire homer style. So jus' wait in for mate. Change the fuel rail back to the raceworks one as the return is better suited for dual feed. Waiting for a belt set to come in the mail next week and motor is ready to go. Par this chip on the HB which I am deciding to replace or not... Also took the time to throw the interior bit in, Gauges, Cluster and seat. Only the drivers as these stradia XL copies don't fold all the way in. 10 years ago I wouldn't have cared and gutted the rear, But now I want to be able to share the experience with the kids from time to time. Key's racing wheel (Feels great, But the build quality feels poor. The alignment of the stitch isn't center and that irks me a little for a wheel I paid near $500 for, But I guess I have to live with it as I believe these are still hand made) But the office now feels great and a lot more "personal" rather than generic GTT. I'm thinking of maybe just going a sparco fixed back...
  10. I also may be wrong. God knows, The internet always surprises me.
  11. The PCV valve operates only under vacuum; Hence the name positive check valve, This "draws" vapor when the engine is under vacuum pressure (idle, light driving etc) into the intake manifold. Once the vehicle has positive crank case pressure (boost) the PCV "shuts" and the positive crank case pressure then naturally through the rocker cover breathers. Yes you can block it off. You will also have to block off the inlet manifold side too. This will effect how the car idles and vacuum pressure.
  12. Would love to see more pics of this!
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