Ljbyrne98

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About Ljbyrne98

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  1. So I have a 1998 Nissan with a 14 pin consult port. I have a problem with my ABS system and wanted to do a diagnosis to find out what the issue is but I cant find a software that supports it. I know NDSII supports ABS but this is the the 16 pin rather than the 14 pin that I require. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be super duper helpful TIA
  2. Ljbyrne98

    Bugger, thanks for that
  3. So I was looking around in my boot to figure out how abs abs tcs have been disabled in my car and noticed this relay had been disconnected. Any idea what the disconnected relay does? (someone please tell me connecting it will fix my abs and tcs problem)
  4. Ljbyrne98

    I knew it 100% wasn't meant for 91 but wasn't sure if it was 95 or 98 but I've been filling it with 98. But then again we're all morons
  5. Ljbyrne98

    The attached image is a sticker on the inside of my bonnet. Could be reading it wrong because I don't have my glasses on, but then again I don't need glasses. I'll look into the timing, not really sure about any of that as I'm new to this side of things, so thanks for that. I know what the codes are, i know where to find them. I've read the whole service manual and the best conclusion I can come to is that my code 21 is related to the TCS or ABS actuator (as per the service manual so pls don't rip into my saying that code 21 can only be coilpacks because the manufacturers believe otherwise. The reason I'm not 100% about this is because the TCS and slip lights were on long before the engine light. The only other think I can think of is that when connecting my new cluster I've pulled a wire loose and that wire just happened to be related to the ignition system. I'll pull that out tomorrow and have a look around and swap my old one back in and see what happens but that still leaves me with my TCS and slip lights on. And before anyone tells me that the TCS has its own code and if it was a busted unit it'd show that code, if it's a purely mechanical (e.g. A sticky sensor) then the unit would only think its off and rather than saying there's an error it could just think its been turned off Edit: before anyone gets their panties in a knot I'm not actually going to fill up with 91 or anything. I know that sticker isn't factory (considering all the factory ones are Japanese). The I'm just arguing for the sake of arguing 😁😁😁
  6. Ljbyrne98

    Yes it's an r34, sorry about that. As for the fuel it says on the car (can't remember where exactly) "RON 91-93". I'm fairly confident that when the r34 was released that 98 wasn't available (or at least readily available) in Japan. There high octane is/was 96. So all this talk about "the skyline needs 98 otherwise inevitable catastrophic destruction" is all bulls dust. Secondly with the timing I did state that it blipped down to 0 but that was the only time it did that. Usually it was around 10 which seemed correct. As for the codes? If I google them I get told to get a diagnostics tool. If I get a diagnostics tool. I know what the fault is but I didn't bother saying it because if someone needs me to explain what the fault is they aren't going to know exactly what the fault is and how to fix it. Fault 21 seems to be a fairly generalised code. I have suspicions that it could be the TCS actuator but the engine light was never on until last week but the tcs lights have been on for months.
  7. Hey guys Recently bought a consult reader and connected to to my phone. Had 3 errors pop up the other day; 12,21, & 33. I cleared 12 and 33 but 21 won't go. My TCS and SLIP lights are also on but they've been on since I bought the car. These lights so up the moment I start up the car I changed the cluster over and when starting the car after that was the first I noticed these lights but its all working correctly so don't believe this could contribute to code 21 but is it possible? I also noticed that on the boost gauge it used to sit at 14 IN-Hg vacuum (I have no idea what this means, boost noob, don't judge) but now it's sitting at 4. Once the car warms up it idles rough but only very slightly. Sometimes it's perfect, sometimes it's a tiny bit rough. I have attached images of the NSDI readings from both cold and hot idle, in hot one the timing shows 0 but it was actually averaging around 10. Before anyone says 100% coilpacks I don't believe it is. The throttle response is too good and while under load it runs perfectly. It's only the idle that's a bit rough. I'm thinking possibly I dud tcs system and O2 sensor? I'm running 98 and it's only rated for 91-93 and I know running a higher fuel rating can cause it to run a little rough so this might contribute to things? Any help would be absolutely loved PS, if anywhere knows somewhere around SE Melbourne where I could drive the car around a track or something just to test things without having to worry about getting caught that would be amazing. It's not registered yet and want to be able to drive it around for an hour or so to see if anything goes bang so it doesn't happen when I'm driving on the road. Not so much looking for a competitive track day. Edit: instantly after posting this I checked my app again and the O2 sensor reading was showing 130, is this abnormally high?
  8. Sorry, I thought I was pretty clear. It wasn't there but showed on start-up as it should. Once I changed the cluster it was there permanently. The question is does changing the cluster cause the engine light. I'm thinking maybe if it's related to the change of cluster then it's a way to prevent people changing the clusters to wind back the Kms but I've never heard of this before
  9. Hey fam, So yesterday I changed my cluster and as soon as I started the car I had an engine light that wasn't there. The globe still worked in the old cluster so it's not like the light was there the whole time. My question is, is the engine light due to changing the cluster or something unrelated? TIA
  10. Thanks for the replies. I'm starting to believe that my wrecker gave me the wrong snorkel 😫
  11. Hi all, I was wondering if anyone had photos of a stock engine bay, especially around the air intake area. I'm putting my car back to stock and the air intake doesn't seem to be sitting properly (especially the mount on the front of the air box) and my air snorkel doesn't seem to have anywhere to attach to as no holes line up. Any other photos would be helpful just so I can figure out what's stock and what's not. Thanks 😊
  12. Can't speak for all R34s but mines a 98 and is completely yellow inside and out
  13. That makes more sense, i didn't realise the anti theft and the turbo timer were attached
  14. It's got power as soon as the ignition turns out but I'm not sure if it's only while the handbrake is on or off as well. Anti theft doesn't seem like the answer as anti theft would likely need power even when ignition is of
  15. So the turbo timer won't work if you don't put the handbrake on? Not too sure what part exactly you're talking about but the car is yellow and has never been resprayed. I doubt the console has ever been taken off seeing as i found McDonald's chips down there (not sure what's more disturbing, the fact that they were there or the fact that they still looked okay)