joorsh

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If that knock sensor is going nuts won't that mean it's pulling timing? If that's the case, you can expect quite a power gain when you fix it!

I hacked up an old R33 airbox this afternoon. Not sure if it'll make any difference, but at least it kept me out of trouble for an hour or so. I left a bit of the snorkel tab there because that part is closest to the exhaust manifold & turbo. I know it's not much of a heat shield, but meh. At the end I gave it a once-over with some leftover matt black to hide all my dodgy cuts & scratches. It ain't pretty, but hopefully the dyno will tell me I haven't completely wasted my time.

Hi Dave, see if i can get them all answered for you. 1. I got my kit second hand (but hadn't been used). You can often pick them up cheaper on ebay if you don't mind waiting for one to come up. 2. I re-used all of the standard hoses except one - pictured here bottom right: Everything else got re-used. One of the standard intercooler hoses has a bracket attached to the hose and bolts to the body - this is the hose I didn't re-use. Hope this helps mate!

Ahh! 3 litre cheater

Here's a photo of the back of the gauge for those enquiring: It's a standard 2-pin connector for power/earth (best hooked up with your dash light circuit) and a vacuum line for the boost. You can get the 2-pin plugs from Jaycar for around 50 cents, or even from a standard computer fan. If you're feeling lazy you can also just run wires straight onto the pins. The entire unit is approx 3 inches tall.

Ahh is that an RB26 or some such?

Very nice! What turbo is on that one? Looks like a good compromise whatever it is!

Yeah that's true enough! Plastic compressor + ceramic exhaust isn't exactly the perfect recipe for longevity eh? So re: the snorkel, is that where most of the power loss comes from? Many gains to be had changing out the airbox as well?

Selling a turbo timer and a boost gauge as per the topic. Both items are in excellent condition. 1 x Greddy turbo timer: Only the turbo timer is for sale. No box, instructions or additional wiring is included (other than what is attached to the device). It was part of my alarm system and worked well. $50 1 x Apexi EL back-lit boost gauge: It also comes with no wiring or plugs. It only needs power (for the back light) and a vacuum line, and goes up to 2 bar. Tested and working. $50 The only things for sale are what is pictured - no other wiring or attachments are included. Preference will be given to buyers who can pickup (Blacktown area), but if there are no takers after a week or two I can express post them out for an additional cost. Contact via 0421 270 972. Cheers.

The 13 PSI that I run is only for the first 1500 RPM or so (to get the torque up) - it drops back to 11PSI quite quickly. Sustained high boost + high RPM is what makes these things crap out (well, aside from the usual culprits like oil starvation, foreign body colision, age, etc). It's because of the way the turbine shaft is friction-fused to the ceramic exhaust wheel when they are made in the factory. They spin the shaft at INSANE speeds, and then press it into the centre of the ceramic exhaust wheel. The material then superheats and fuses together. You can actually load them up to 16+ PSI, but if you hold it there that's when they start to heat up, the friction-welds melt, and the exhaust wheel takes off down your dump pipe. You can run quite high boost through them and not shorten their life at all if you're smart about how you do it. As soon as you start towing heavy loads uphill, running it at the track or doing back-to-back drags runs, you'll heat them up and it'll come apart. It's quite interesting when they detach actually, because at high RPM and heat-load the welds will liquify, but it will still keep spinning and running happily. It's when you back off the throttle, and then load it up again (like during a gear change) that they shear off - I think because of the change in momentum experienced by the exhaust wheel.

Interesting turn of events - I have always been told that the factory airbox + snorkel is good and flows well, especially with a drop-in panel filter - and that those aftermarket pods are basically worthless. Well we took off the factory snorkel (left the airbox in place) and gained over 11 awkw, for a total of 215awkw. Put it back on and it dropped straight back to 203/204awkw. So it doesn't seem to flow as well as I've been told! I also noticed the turbo intake pipe didn't seem to suck closed with the snorkel off, so it's definitely a restriction of some sort. I'm sketching up designs now for my own dodgy airbox mods, intake pipe and CAI, so we'll see what happens.

Silver M35 spotted around 12:45pm on Windsor Road heading north past Norwest Bvd. I was on the top floor balcony of the big shiny corporate building there. Gave a cheer and a wave, but didn't expect you to spot me

Yeah that's true - I can think of a few places it would be very handy!

Just the standard huffer. I'm trying to build this cheap but reliable. Total cost of performance mods so far: Exhaust: Home made Boost controller: $310 Intercooler: $300 Nistune ECU: $460 Dyno time: $600 TOTAL: $1670 for approx 50awkw I've made back close to $500 selling various gauges, screens and electronic bits that came with it, but I've also spent money on boring non-performance maintenance stuff like filters, pumps, oil, brake pads, sparks and such. Now that I've done all the cheap and easy mods, the next 50 awkw will probably cost 5 times as much.