Tumble

After a lot of thought and research I've opted for and ECU Master Black. I decided faffing with the LPG will be more trouble that its worth. Plus I discovered a 4 wheel rolling road 4 miles from home, and the dudes an ECU master dealer! I had my eye one their piggy back module for another project anyway, so seems logical to stick to one platform. They have a basemap for turbo'd VQ35DE so should be pretty straight forward to get going Probably wont have it fitted for a month or so, but will report back When I do...

I'd be interested in a brochure or two if your up for posting to the UK, will be a nice touch at the shows

I figured I'd bring this into 2020, rather than start a fresh one. I'm about to buy an aftermarket ECU, and leaning towards the Adaptronic M6000. Mainly due to the modular features. I plan to get it up and running as a piggy back then later down the line buy the large expansion module, and have the ECU control my existing LPG system (currently BRC) Early on in the thread, there's talk of the Adaptronic (previous gen) having a a few limitations with throttle and cam control. I know there's an DBW module you can buy, so assuming that side of this is sorted. Anyone have any idea about cam control with the M6000. Also does anyone have a base-map for the M6000, or other Adaptronic ECU for the VQ25DET?

I filmed an ECU swap the other day, about 5mins in. Hope it helps..

Does this also work for the M35?

I was a bit confused and was hoping you could do as you suggested, I spoke with HG, you can't limit minimum pressure. Going for the RV2 for the time being

A great write up, thanks dude. I always thought it was plug and play with a G35 or Z wheel..

Wow, what a read. Big thanks to all of those that have contributed to the continued development of these things. I see Hypergear have a range of options on their site, and am leaning toward RV3 / RV4 based on current mods and future plans. - Could these be 'detuned' with a boost controller like the Innovate SCG1, while I work on other supporting mods like stand alone and fuel system? Did Intense ever come through with a v2?

Thanks guys, both on my mental to do list as well. Can get full whiteline bush kit and rear ARB fairly easy in the uk

I'm about to take the plunge and upgrade my saggy OEM to a set of BC coilovers from Driftworks (UK) Are there any other essentials I need to do / fit at the same time. It's my daily, and i'm not planning to slam it or go majorly stancey, but will be using it at my local drag race once in a while I can get 4 wheel alignment and corner balance done at work..

Thanks mate, surprised I've never heard of them, but looks like they are in the UK too Will look into Arduino projects as well.. new wheels are quite a long way off but good to know there's a solution(s) out there..

Thanks, I'll have a look at Jaycar. Just to confirm, that's an electronics/gizmos shop? I've not done the actual math, but gaining 2" od would help with ground clearance issues, and arch gap ? It would be more to keep the overall kph accurate, I tend to use gps for mph if I need to know the speed I'm traveling

I would like to fit a wheel tire combo with a lager than stock diameter. Is it possible / is there a product out there... that would let you either make and adjustment somewhere in nissan data scan, or intercept and adjust the signal coming from the speed sensor - similar to a kph to mph converter, to compensate for the change of wheel size and not affet your speedo or overall trip km...

I solved my fueling / idle issues. But still unsure if this is how the TB should sound during relearning...

Thanks Bob! Now with added audio... https://youtu.be/TXNaj1P-dXY

How should the TB sound when you do this? I've done similar procedures on other cars and you can here the motor purring as the valve opens and closes. I'm getting quite a harsh clunk. I don't think its dirty as was cleaned fairly recently, but am worried I damaged it during cleaning process perhaps (I have that kinda luck) Im getting quite a rough idle, and research lead me to an old thread with the same symptoms as mine, when he solved by cleaning it and doing the whole re-learn procedure. I've done all of that already while doing other MAF troubleshooting which makes me think its the TB itself that's at fault..

Can someone clarify what this means form the first post. I've read the whole thread a few time but can't find deets on the modifications (if any) are required to rear pads and or rotors/

So... I think I have made headway. What seems to work is pressing the unlock button on the remote twice before opening the door. I.E once to unlock, once to deactivate the alarm.

For anyone interested the part no is 24370-C9902, and is the 'pink' fuseable link, not a faded orange as I first thought...

As the title suggests, I'm having intermittent problems with my alarm. It never goes off for the sake of it, but 5/10 times it goes off after opening the door having just used the remote to unlock. It can be fine over night, and then play up after being locked for just 5 mins I have one key, there does look to be something for an immobiliser, however I don't have a fob for it and it starts first time any way with out fob. Not sure if this is stock, or aftermarket. Thanks in advance for any help. Tom

Thanks gents great info. Previous owner, had the rear fogs tapped off of it, blown the fuseable link, bodged it with a jumper wire which I then disturbed while doing LPG stuff, causing it not to start. I've fixed it with a blob of solder for now, will order a replacement asap...

Hey all, what's the technical name for this orange multi fuse, I need to find a replacement. And am I right in thinking that the blown one is the ignition fuse?

Had a really productive day yesterday and got all the bits back together, RH injector rail connected and mounted. Running like a dream! And now it's back together , it's officially my daily!

Is there a version covering VQ25DET, Both EC and EM manuals only see the have NA

Can't edit, missed this one..