rahilp

Hi there I'm getting married on Sept 15 2023, and I'm looking for a car to drive me to the venue which is from Shailer Park to Rocklea (approx 25km). I was looking at having a Datsun 240k firstly but seem to be struggling to find anyone. I love my Skyline as that's why I was looking for the 240k, however I'm open to any classic Japanese car such as 240/260z, celica, 808 etc. I'm also open to some more modern Jap cars but it has to be something bit more special. So if you have anything please comment, message and hopefully we can work something out. Thank you

So I have a greddy manifold, it's underneath, I gave it a decent clean a year ago

Hi there So I've seem to have this problem with my R34 GTT. Firstly the issue The car seems to idle fine. However when it's cold and I accelerate (floor it) the car drops its revs drastically then shoots up. If I accelerate slowly (even tapping the pedal) the car will stall. When the car is warm it stalls alot easier. Suspected the alternator but tested 14.6volts Cleaned the MAF The car is a R34 GT-T manual with stock ecu with a forward facing plenum. If you have any ideas please throw them at me Video below does show the temp being high, at the time my thermo fans weren't plugged in received_1892722887557038.mp4

Sold now

Hi guys I have a pair of R33 GTR rear seat I want to sell, looking at selling them for $950 located in Brisbane and happy to ship. As you can see in the photos, there's no stains, rips, tears or cigarette burns. But does have some sun fade on the top which is common. I'm happy to swap for any parts (mechanical, interior), but it will need to fits my R34. I'm currently in the market for wheels and if you have anything let me know and it will be cash your way + the seat. Pretty much if you have anything you don't want, feel free to PM me and we can go from there.

Thought I'd have a looking at the timing belt. And it is out by two teeth would that be enough to cause this?

Might invest in one or see if there any reputable mechanic available this week. And its 2 short flashes pause followed by 1 quick flash

I guess I can put my multimeter on the ecu loom and see if there's any output voltage when the car running. But I had continuity on all the trigger wire from the coilpacks plug to the ecu

Sadly earth strap didn't fix it

Spark plugs were replaced, but ill look at that as the battery was relocated to the boot and it was earthed near the boot The car had a period where it was down for about 3 months and had a few things done

Hi there I've currently have Error 21 (ignition signal circuit). I've also have a misfire happening only at low RPM. It will stall out if you accelerate approx 50%, if you go 75% it will drop the revs and almost stall then shoot up, but accelerate slowly it will go just as normal (these are all from stand still and rolling slowly) Firstly the car is R34 GT-T manual running stock ecu Injectors Turbo Throttle body with TCS still Aftermarket Greddy intake Front Mount intercooler Splitfire Coilpacks I've installed the splitfire coilpacks last week (brand new) along with spark plugs gapped at 0.8. I checked the coilpack loom for constant ground + 12v with the ign on and tested trigger signal for continuity from the ecu to the coilpack loom (so those have all passed) I've heard people say replace the loom but idk if thats going to resolve it for me Injectors were cleaned and flow tested about a month ago I've heard CAS could be a problem, I assumed mine was fine and wasn't going to be and issue. But I bought another one and it was still the same issue. Then borrowed someone's with a working one and still same issue Hope someone has some knowledge

As the title say looking for altia r34 side skirt (coupe) but may be open to other I'm from brisbane but happy for shipping Thanks

1. That 1st picture i posted found yeah its not a nipple my mistake but the recent 2 pictures ive attached shows that the boost sensor hose going to the fitting its not a line running underneath its 100% has had a fitting tapped into the pipe. The 1st picture of the 2 recent ones show what i said it is. The fitting is in the dead bang centre of the pipe 2. Im sorry im probably missing the plot but how does changing the jpipe to another factory oem one and putting and oem bov and using the original factory lines affect those things, like the jpipe looks identical except for that fitting thats been tapped in From my understanding isnt the TCS the part circled in red which im not touching anyways, and that is staying on the throttle body and the blue circle is the j pipe the part i am replacing

Sorry my pic is bit shit the engine is still hot, my little nipple has definitely been tapped in to the j pipe then, it does not look factory at all and I dont have the charcoal canister line going back into the intake manifold in my setup the last guy has done some weird shit

Sorry my pic is bit shit the engine is still hot, my little nipple has definitely been tapped in to the j pipe then, it does not look factory at all and I dont have the charcoal canister line going back into the intake manifold in my setup the last guy has done some weird shit Sorry you also talk about traction control etc, how is that affected with only that j pipe, im literally only changing that pipe, all those parts arent connected to them are they