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nouveau_poor

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Everything posted by nouveau_poor

  1. fair enough sure, but why get rid of the timer if he's already got it? The other post sounded like the timer itself would cause an issue.
  2. Why get rid of the turbo timer? I thought they were a good thing for turbo engines to let them sit for a bit after driving before shutting off the engine.
  3. Not exactly parts, but I have a muffler towel signed by the Impul grid girls last year and a shirt signed by Kazuyoshi Hoshino at Tokyo Auto Salon. Other than that it'd be my small collection of old Nismo interior bits.
  4. Hi all, first sale post here. I have a Power FC and Commander that I'm looking to sell. I'm in the United States and can ship anywhere domestically for free, but can also ship internationally at buyers expense. It's an L-Jetro for use with AFMs. Was functioning great when pulled from the car. Feel free to ask questions! Asking for $500 USD I'll leave the post up for as long as it's available. It's also on eBay if you prefer that. See pictures below.
  5. Can confirm Americans will sell their kidney for anything with the numbers 3 and 4 in the model number. Even more if you have a Paul Walker sticker/reference on it
  6. It won't be a daily driver, more a weekend/pleasure car but it seems like the consensus is that light pulleys will cause some form of drop, so it'd be wise to just leave them be if the OEM pulleys can keep on chugging.
  7. Sorry for the crap quality but this is the the best angle I could get on them. Similar to the photo up top, the belt ribbing area seems to have gotten some of what appears to be surface rust over the last 30 years, like how Duncan was describing the anodizing coming off his Greddy's I presume. If it's as easy as just giving them a good clean while they're off then I might as well do that and save a few bucks. If not, well that's why I'm looking at potential replacements.
  8. Thanks for the insights. So it seems that if I fit standard size pulleys then I won't have the voltage or PS side effects. Is the wear on the OEM pulleys anything worth concern or is there a way to gauge when one should replace them? I might just replace them with the aluminum and be done with it. Is there a part number for the greddy standard pulley kit? There seems to only be 1 size that is sold currently. Edit: Dug around and back in the day greddy made an 'oversized' kit which has since been discontinued. https://www.nengun.com/greddy/pulley-kit-oversized This leads me to assume the one currently available is the standard size
  9. Hey all, I've been taking a look at new accessory pulleys (water, PS, alternator) as part of something I might want to refresh as part of my R32 GTR engine build. I'm shooting for around 450-500 wheel hp for a street car and am planning on replacing the factory harmonic balancer with one from Fluidampr if that is relevant to my question. I've noticed that my accessory pulleys seem to have a little bit of surface wear (surface rust?) on the ribbing where the pulleys contact the belts. No issues or abnormalities with the pulley or vehicle performance but I figured if I'm going to have them removed as part of the engine build, why not replace them while they're easy to access. Does anyone have experience with Greddy or KTS "lightweight" pulley kits? I'm not really expecting any performance improvement but rather just replacing for durability. I've heard that they are larger than factory and underdriven pulleys can cause unwanted side effects like low alternator voltage or reduced cooling at low rpm. Has anyone experienced this? https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-pulley-kit-bnr32.html https://www.rhdjapan.com/kts-sc-pulley-pulley-system-3-pc-set-bnr32.html They are the same price, possibly cheaper where I am, as OEM pulleys, but I wouldn't want to chance dead batteries or a hotter engine in traffic. Should I bother replacing my pulleys at all if the wear is normal? This isn't my pulley, but shows what I mean when I say "wear"
  10. Thanks, this was the route I was going to go when I replace the radiator with a Koyo. Wanting to do the radiator, hoses, belts, pulleys, and probably fan in one go.
  11. Think I got it sorted out today. Getting the hose off was testing my patience as it was bloated in the center, so getting the spring clips past the little nozzle "nub" area was damn near impossible. Resorted to cutting it off with a razor. Found the source of the leak, there is a tiny split on the rear of the hose that wasn't visible when still on, and matched the location of where the drips were coming from. See below. Went to the auto shop and got a length of hose for a few dollars and new screw type clamps. The old spring clamps still seemed strong and ok but why not get new hardware if I'm already at the store. Learn from my mistakes if you end up reading this thread and have the same issue. I dont know if there is a way to avoid this short of draining all your coolant beforehand, but there will be coolant in this hose and the tubes it connects to. So when you slip it off (but you'll actually cut it off) the coolant will start leaking out. I have a sizable puddle of the stuff on the garage floor that I still have to clean up. Paper towels might help to soak up a bit but if you can get a container of some sort to squeeze in that narrow space to catch it until it stops, that'd be best. Secondly, if you don't get the molded Nissan hose for 25-30ish dollars and get plain hose like I did, do not cut the plain hose to the same length as the original hose. I did that the first time and even with the slight bend/curvature due to the hose coming off the roll, it's not the same as the OEM. What this will result in, is that there will be a rather sharp bend causing the center portion of the new hose to bow out, as though it were being pinched, once it's on since the two nozzles the hose joins are rather close together as in the photos. I was afraid that this bowing was decreasing the inner diameter of that area and could lead to higher pressure so I took it off. Adding insult to injury, even after trying lubricant, the only way I could get it off was to cut it off again since the work space is so small. What you'll want to do is cut the hose to a bit shorter than the original. By doing so it'll allow both sides to connect but still allow room for the hose to "push" further along the nozzle so the sharp bend/kink doesn't occur, with plenty of room behind the nozzle nubs to clamp down on. Will be getting an alignment done in the next day or so for some suspension work I did recently and I'll have them top off the coolant I lost and bleed the system, as I'm pretty sure that there is some air in there after removing the hose. Happy Easter
  12. So I drove out to my local gas station this evening to top up my R32 GTR and then drove back home, temp reading was normal. Somewhere along the way home I sprung a coolant leak and when I checked under the car in my garage I found a small puddle forming under the pulley/belt area at the front of the engine. One paper towel to catch the drips was enough before the leak stopped. I then started up the car again and looked, nothing new was leaking out. I then drove back to the gas station to try to recreate/diagnose the problem. There was no spill at the stall I used and it couldn't have been cleaned since it was late and nobody was working there, so it must have happened on the drive home. I looked under the car again with the engine running, and no leaks. But when I turned the engine off, the leak started again. Poking around the engine bay I'm 97% sure the leak is coming from the little bit of hose shown in the pictures, right in front of the cam cover under the plastic bracket thing that covers the angle sensor wire. Nothing unusual I could point at on the original drive home that could have caused it, so I'm thinking it must have just been on its last leg. When I drove back home, I let the car idle to cool down while watching underneath the car. As the engine cooled while idling, little drips started to come out very slowly, increasing the longer the engine was left to run. I let the engine shut off, and immediately placed some paper towels under the little hose. Checked under the car as the towel turned greenish with coolant and I didnt see any of the drips I saw before. So I'm thinking that the drips from higher up were dripping from the pulleys down onto the floor My questions: What does this hose do? I figure it's something to do with coolant flowing through it as the engine cools down, like a reroute. Once the engine cools down in the morning, can I just remove the two clamps and replace it with a length of new hose, or would that result in coolant pissing out? Is this hose anything special that I would have to buy OEM, or can I go out to the local auto shop and ask for 3 inches of hose of matching diameter? Thanks all.
  13. Welcome, tons of good info on this forum. You're in North Carolina? Whereabouts? Used to live near Charlotte until I moved for work.
  14. Try Yahoo Auctions, I've seen them pop up fairly regularly. Lots of good stuff.
  15. Haven't heard of those, I'll check them out. Thanks for the tip
  16. They're at auction at the moment for quite a bit less than GKTech, so I'm considering them. Of course if they approach the GKTech price I'd opt for those. If the -5mm doesnt give the degrees I'm after then I'd ignore them altogether, but that information is still unknown.
  17. Hey all, Saw that Ikeya Formula offered FUCAs in 2 flavors for the R32 GTR, -5mm and -15mm. Does anyone know how much camber the -5mm arm would give? I recall reading somewhere that the -15mm arm would give ~3 degrees, which is more than I'm looking for (2 degrees). The adjustable ones from GKTech would be the obvious solution, but I might be able to get the Ikeya's for a condition and price I'd be amiss to pass up. Hence my asking. Thanks for any insight!
  18. Must have been serious if the support couldn't be refinished/reinforced. Once you're done, you'll have a pretty unique ride if you're stateside!
  19. Good progress, but would it not have been easier and/or cheaper to just get the Bee R kit?
  20. A necessity. What you really need is a pair of those Nismo branded binoculars. People really out there paying for anything with a Nismo logo on it, when they can usually get them for more realistic prices from Yahoo Auctions/Mercari. But most only usually see the inflated prices on social media so they think it's actually worth that much and not just a scalper's fee lol
  21. When my tank leaked it only leaked until about 3/4 tank. Turns out an evaporation hose on top of the tank, a breather hose attached to the filler hose, and the fuel pump o-ring had all gone bad. Replaced them all and it has been perfect. Not sure how different a GTS tank is from a GTR. If your tank is leaking all the way down to 1/4 tank then it's probably a hole somewhere down low, you might be able to see it without dropping the tank. Dropping the tank itself isn't too hard to do in your garage if you have a buddy and can be done in an afternoon. There's a post on here that gives pretty good directions with pics. Of course a garage with a fuel tank lift would be able to do it much faster. At least since so much is leaking out you don't have to worry about draining/siphoning out (as much) fuel first, but keep in mind that even at 1/4 tank, gas is heavy.
  22. Americans really drive the prices up to ridiculous levels. There are individuals here who are already buying R34 GTRs and paying to store them, even though they can't import them for another 4 years minimum. Prices will be going through the roof with them some already getting close to the 6 figure mark. People want what they can't have, which makes them think these cars are worth the big bags of cash being asked for. Personally, I point the finger at F&F, 'influencers', and JDM fanboi types for the overhype. Same reason Supra prices are absurd with USDM examples going for 6 figures at auction, which makes other owners think their own example is inherently worth more than it really is. Same reason that over here, people will buy even non-GTR Skylines for 15-20K USD. The Skyline name just means that much to some people now. The sad truth is that in a few years, most GTRs, the 34 especially, will be unattainable to most people (myself included) without windfalls of disposable income. Those who already own these cars now are fortunate to have them!
  23. If it's an OBD port, you could try something from here: http://www.buyobd.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6 I use the bluetooth one and it works fine with NDS. You might be able to get it to connect to your phone or laptop that way if usb is giving you issues. Cheap, so might be worth a shot if you haven't considered already. I once tried an OBDII bluetooth dongle (might be the same as yours, it's clear blue plastic) with a 16 to 14 pin convert cable to see if it would work. It didn't, as one might expect.
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