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About thenixtone

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  1. Thanks everyone for your feedback, my budget is to hopefully spend less than 1.5k for a good one. It will be daily'd with some light abuse, next tune I'm getting will hopefully be around 370kw~
  2. You mean like the original passive aggressive comment I was responding to? And of course I searched. Its hard to find information with exact power figures. How do you think I came across the NPC clutch that people on here recommend..? Every thread that COULD be answered elsewhere is useless apparently. Besides 'this one fits' I was after actual experiences and feedback.
  3. Ah right, my bad, I thought this was a forum.. for discussions. A clutch place isn't going to tell me if their clutch is shit, are they?
  4. Hey everyone, Need a new clutch for more power / current one is worn, I have the GTT (RB25DET Neo) was wondering if anyone has any tips on what to look for? Will any aftermarket single plate do? Currently looking at https://www.gameonmotorsports.com.au/npc-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-pull-type-clutch-r34-gt~44571 Looking to make about 375kw~
  5. Can't seem to find any online that's relatively close, anyone have this part? The one for the back of the center console? Cheers
  6. Yeah link works now, was 400ing before. I switched the AFM out but it ran like butthole, needs a retune someone said, but no one tuned nistunes anywhere near me, so big F
  7. Link is dead, and the official Nissan mechanic wasn't sure either, he also said 'a retune will probably fix the issue' but I don't think that's true
  8. When I got the car looked at by a mechanic (it had a check engine light) they said the light was from the throttle actuator or o2 sensor. I'm guessing this is related, but what does that mean / what would be the fix? Sheesh The car also idles at 1100 rpm
  9. Yeah it has a z32 currently but it's apparently not OEM and a replica. I think it could be that, but I need a retune for the new AFM and no one within 800kms will tune a nistune
  10. Hey guys, Sometimes when I start my R34 GTT (98, NEO) it sounds like its stuttering or spluttering, but it starts each time. Then when it gets warm and I'm sitting at lights or just idling, the revs will go up and down and low enough sometimes to almost stall (but it hasn't yet). I have no idea what this could be, I purchased a new Z32 AFM and installed it, but the car ran like shit as I'm guessing it needs to be tuned for the new one (so I put the old one back in). Help is appreciated
  11. Hey guys, Basically the door lock on the drivers side is sort of mushy, sometimes it locks when you push it and others it doesn't quite go all the way (which you need to pull it back then push it forward again). This means the remote central locking doesn't work sometimes either, I have to like open the door then close it again (can be up to a few times) Any ideas? Seems mechanical, could it be dirty or something? EDIT: Also when I lock it using central locking it will sometimes sound like it's vibrating or bouncing back and forth on the inside. And when locking with the key it feels a bit mushy as well and doesn't quite lock all the way either Cheers
  12. Oh wow, I'm an absolute nugget of a human. Yeah okay, it's wrong then. Looks stock in the chart as per what you guys have said.
  13. I dunno, this was exactly a year ago, it must have had the bigger turbo put on and retuned because its definitely not 180kw
  14. That's the one I mentioned in the other thread making 181kw. Manifold gauge pressure reads 31psi. It's definitely a lot more than 181kw, GT3076, pulls quite hard, e.g I can hit 16psi in second gear easily
  15. Sup guys, In another thread I mentioned my car came with a dyno sheet which I think is wrong / has been tuned since then. It's got manifold gauge pressure on the right and it hit 31 psi. As far as I know this isn't boost pressure, it's engine pressure + boost pressure? Or something like that.. What pressure does the GTT run at stock? Trying to work out how much boost it was at during this run. Cheers
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