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About fredeuce

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    Rank: RB20E
  1. Apologies , I omitted the pictures on the previous post. Here they are now.
  2. Further to my previous post I attach some picture of the 5th gear assembly and the synchro cones that go with it. The first pic shows the tapered surface on the gear and the associated cone all of which goes to work when you engage 5th gear. The second pic show the second tapered piece that goes inside the coupler hub . You can see the taper is in the reverse direction. It appears the cone engages the tapered portion when you pull it out of gear. Can any one explain this?
  3. Well after having the new bearing sleeve attachment made up , by my big brother who is a handy machinist these days( see pics) ,I fitted it up and was able to remove the sleeve first attempt without any further drama. All good! Now, the next issue is the rear thrust race on the counter gear . The manual shows a bearing plate attached and pressing the thrust race off together with the bearing sleeve. I am concerned that as the bearing plate captures only the outer edge of the thrust race that loading it up with a puller/press is going to distort/destroy it . What's the go here? See last pic. Next question. 5th gear synchromesh workings. I see there are two syncho cones associated with 5th gear. However on looking closely at them it appears that one cone operates when you engage 5th and the other appears to operate when you pull it out of 5th. Can any one explain the theory or workings of the 5th gear synchro arrangement? Cheers, Fred
  4. BK the sleeve is about 6 mm thick and that allowed my puller to attach on the edge , not on the bolts. However observing the unit you had made up I think I will make a more robust version like yours with larger bolts and give it another go. I don't want to start using heat/welder as in the story in that link I posted.
  5. BK, What you have is basically the same idea that I have utilized although I think yours is a bit more robust than mine. That said anything home made like this is still restricted by the size of the holes in the sleeve. They are only 5mm dia. and as your attachment illustrates the screws need to be turned down to fit the holes. As mentioned above my screws sheared off at the step down to the 5mm tips. If you have a look at the story on this link and the pictures attached this illustrates the problem well.It also show some fairly drastic last resort action in using a welder to heat/stretch the sleeve which of course becomes a throw-away item. I can only assume that the conventional methods of removal failed and then on to the welder.😞 http://takakenr.web.fc2.com/car2/mtoh/mtoh.html
  6. I have progressed quite some way in dismantling this gearbox. I have now hit a stumbling block. The pictures attached show the rear portion of counter gear as it protrudes through the sandwich plate. You can see the 3 holes which I understand enables a special tool to be attached to the sleeve and then pull it off will a puller. I made up sleeve which you can see in the second picture however on attaching it with three stepped bolts I made to screw into the three holes all bolts sheered the tips off. It is clear this sleeve is very tight. I do not want to apply any heat to it. Any tips or other advice here would be appreciated. As a last resort is the factory tool readily available? The diagram of it in the manual is not clear as to how it works. It appears to be more than a simple sleeve with 3 pins spaced at 120 deg. Anyone have one of these that they can post a picture of ?
  7. BK the essential purpose in going through the box is that the synchros are becoming slow and the gears crunch from time to time. That being the case then whilst it is apart a new bearing kit seems to me a good idea.
  8. GTSBoy, Now that you and Duncan have confirmed this is a later pull style clutch. What I am proposing to do is to dismantle the gearbox and fit a new bearing kit. This is where CBC enter the picture as a possible supplier. Are there other suppliers of bearing kits for these gearboxes?
  9. GTSBoy, Thanks for taking the time to reply. The car is a '93 GTR 4WD.Has the bigger engine it is 2.5 or 2.6 litre.
  10. Hi folks this is my first trip through an R32/ RB25 gtr transmission. I see much discussion about push and pull style clutch fork and slave arrangements. What follows are some pictures that show the slave and fork arrangement. This is a '93 J spec car as I understand it. Can someone confirm that this is the late style transmission with "pull" clutch fork action? I am looking for a supplier of a bearing kit. CBC say they have them for R32 with RB20 and the R33. Can I assume the kit for the R33 will suit? I look forward to your observations and comments. Cheers, Fred
  11. Hi folks I'm a newbie to this forum. I don't have a Skyline but my son has an R32. A '93 model. I am looking to learn more about these cars as I am about to do a gearbox and rear differential rebuild. Looking to learn about interchangeability between the models. Parts suppliers etc.
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