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joshuaho96

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joshuaho96 last won the day on January 30 2020

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  1. Yeah, 100% absolutely not injector noise. That sounds like an unbalanced washing machine.
  2. Almost every semi truck in the US except for the very latest generations are all dogboxes. You don't hear about a semi trucks needing a transmission inspection ever 20k miles because it turns out that when downtime means you don't get paid people really make an effort to learn their transmission and treat it well. You also won't even get your full CDL if you can't drive a dogbox properly. If you hand your car to random valets, friends, etc, they're going to grind the transmission to death in a hurry. Synchro just makes sense on passenger cars for that reason, manuals are hard enough without learning out how to float gears/double clutch. People's brains turn off when you try to explain what exactly double clutching does.
  3. BTC will probably see a correction at some point but it's already been through multiple boom/bust cycles, seems like every few years people re-discover it and decide it's gold until it isn't.
  4. If it's the same as the RB26 the copper washer is going to be stuck to the bolt pretty well, you want to use a knife or a something to pry it out before replacing it. You're supposed to orient the washer as seen in this diagram for a 370Z:
  5. I would inspect the turbos for shaft play/damage, it's possible something is broken there.
  6. If you're changing oil that often I really would not be concerned about whether the oil filter is getting filled up or not, there's really no need to be changing oil that much in anything remotely modern unless you're tracking the car.
  7. I suspect the actual issue in many cases is not the sensor (range notwithstanding) but the actual gauge circuitry itself seems to have a significant delay. That was the case with the MR2 Turbos, if you changed out the gauge driver for something that sampled quickly it was possible to have response on par with aftermarket gauges. I suspect the same is true of the gauges in these cars.
  8. Connecting the two lines should be the same as just letting the wastegate line be open to atmosphere as long as the lines are hooked up like OEM. If that isn't the case then something is wrong, you may have an unexpected restriction on the lines that go back to the intake hose in front of the rear compressor intake.
  9. Skip to 6:00, it explains how the OEM boost control works. The "pointy end" I assume is the outlet that normally goes to atmosphere. In an RB26 it vents to the rear turbo closest to the firewall before the compressor, but after the MAF. The RB26 OEM boost control is a fixed duty cycle output on the solenoid, it doesn't seem to have any form of closed loop control or special intelligence. I've unplugged the wires to the solenoid on my car for now to run wastegate boost and there's not even a CEL if that tells you anything. As for why someone would do such a thing frankly I have no idea. It's entirely possible it had an aftermarket boost controller at some point and someone ripped it out prior to sale with no real intention to reverse the modification in a clean way.
  10. Just the unfortunate reality of making a turbo engine with truly modern power delivery. The W2A charge cooler adds a second coolant loop and makes things very messy in the vicinity of the intake manifold. A2A eliminates the extra plumbing and issues with coolant leaking into the engine but now you have a bunch of additional volume after the compressor that has to be pressurized to build boost.
  11. Modern engines tend to have reduced need for oil filtration because the OEM spec air filters tend to let less dirt and sand into the engine, less of it makes its way into the oil filter. Better understanding of how to keep engines from wearing prematurely from a materials perspective and a design perspective also means less wear particles on average. Also a full flow filter like that is never going to filter out soot in the oil. Of course if you plan to run your engine like a long haul diesel with 10+L of oil in the sump with very long oil change intervals then you should get a bypass filter. For a normal gasoline engine with a 5 quart sump and 8000-12000 km oil change intervals it's more work than it's worth. The long haul diesel crowd uses those systems because they're stretching OCIs as far as 40,000 km or even higher because any time spent changing oil means you aren't making money and those engines have like 38L or more oil per oil change.
  12. AFAIK there's not much ability to get higher brightness out of an HID bulb like halogens, the luminous efficiency is already pretty high and 4300k white point maximizes the light output. Philips 85122 would be good for a D2S application for example. You might be able to run higher output by running a more powerful ballast but many ballasts are rated at input power, not output power. You have to figure out for yourself if the output power/luminance is actually any better.
  13. I would caution against blindly doing LED replacements, if someone has actually bothered to get the photometric data and verified it's an improvement vs original spec lights then it's ok but the vast majority of drop-in LEDs for halogen housings will cause problems because the filament of the halogen has a different light pattern than the LED replacement. The optics of a headlight are pretty carefully calibrated against the light source it is intended to use. There are some LED headlight replacements that are application-specific and may actually work as intended with better brightness than the original, but the vast majority out there are going to be worse and cause visibility issues. If you have an HID headlight assembly a proper LED retrofit will likely require replacing the projector with an LED equivalent and some harness work to delete the HID ballast. If you want to have the best possible brightness in a D2S socket run 4300k bulbs and make sure your lenses are not hazed or yellowing. Some projectors are also known to be damaged over time, if the metal projector bowl is damaged then you'll have worse light output as well. Getting your headlights properly aimed also makes a big difference, long distance visibility on low beam is most important in the level and 0.4 degree below level test points. Anything below that is not actually that useful and is mostly foreground illumination, too much of which can impact your night vision and increase glare in rainy conditions.
  14. https://billet.net.au/fuel-rail-kits/bpp-bosch-gtr-ev14-1000cc-fuel-injector-adaptor/ Would it just be this then? I have to remove the injectors and get them sent out for cleaning + characterization prior to actually getting new injectors, if the insulators seem to be important I'll see if I can bother someone to maybe get a revised version that allows for the insulator to fit.
  15. I'm interested in maybe trying to get a set of B 280 436 469-01 Bosch Motorsport injectors, these are 1000 cc EV14 injectors with a dual cone spray to reduce wall wetting in DOHC 4V heads, but I'm not sure how they would fit in an RB26 fuel rail/intake manifold. Does anyone make adapters for EV14 standard length injectors?
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