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joshuaho96

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joshuaho96 last won the day on October 12 2021

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  1. Additional note: The brake + clutch vacuum booster pipes are an absolute pain in the neck to get in compared to the OEM lines. You must use the Nismo-provided pipes to clear everything properly. I would recommend maneuvering the pipe to stick out between cylinder 5 and 6 as it should before you put the collector on the intake manifold/ITBs. You can do it afterwards like I did but expect to do a lot of maneuvering to figure out how to make it happen, you should expect to have the fuel filter unbolted as well as the boost solenoid and fuel injector resistor pack taken off to make more room. Getting the gasket in place is an absolute pain in the neck when the coolant pipe mounting tab is actively pushing this pipe out of place. Also, Nismo includes a replacement part for the oil pressure sensor bracket that connects it to the vacuum/coolant pipe that is directly above it. I assume you need to put this bracket on to get everything to fit correctly, presumably the spacing is slightly different relative to the OEM plenum which will cause this coolant pipe to not fit up correctly with the air chamber under the plenum. Do this before the plenum goes on instead of after, it is much more annoying/difficult to do it when the manifold + collector is blocking access. 10mm u-joint and 12mm u-joint quarter inch sockets as mentioned are mandatory for this job. I cannot imagine how you would even attempt to do things like bolting up the brake/clutch booster pipe without one. Even though a wrench will get on the bolt, I only have like a quarter turn before I'm hitting something and a ratcheting wrench will be too big to clear the pipe.
  2. I managed to do it. I highly recommend a 60 degree open-ended wrench/spanner for this job in conjunction with a 12mm u-joint quarter inch socket for the rearmost stud at the bottom of cylinder 6. Also as I mentioned make sure you put the dowels on the ITBs, not the plenum/collector, otherwise you won't clear the studs. It will barely clear and maybe scratch the gasket face a little around the bolt hole areas.
  3. This thread makes me want to buy an R33 ABS pump before they go NLA.
  4. So there's actually a few additional notes here, one is that the cylinder 3 and 4 dowel pins must be on the ITBs, not the plenum/collector. Otherwise there is literally not enough clearance. I am amazed I got it on without some kind of catastrophic damage to the mating surfaces. I managed to get all of cylinder 5 studs back in after putting the collector on, then the top stud for cylinder 6. I had to use the double nut method, for some reason my studs after zinc coating require a wrench or something to help them tighten down. It definitely feels wrong, I have to carefully (emphasis on carefully) tighten it down until I feel the stud bottom out, then back it out ever so slightly so a stress riser is not created before trying very hard to not adjust the stud depth while removing the double nut locked together. The problem with cylinder 6 is that there is so little clearance I literally cannot get a crescent wrench or crows foot wrench to hold the back nut still while I tighten/loosen the front nut with a 12mm u-joint socket, so the stud is not properly seated. Any ideas?
  5. Route it to a catch can with a proper air-oil separator, then vent the rest back in front of the compressor inlet with a dedicated intake pipe.
  6. For future reference, the OEM part number for this part is 22060-05U00, the harness it attaches to is 24079-24U00. If you don't feel like paying ~150-200 USD for one of these dinky little knock sensors the NTK OE sensor is ID0184 or 72813. This is a flat response sensor, it is marked KNE01-A on the sensor itself, KR is the model designator NTK uses for their resonant variants. This sensor is shared with the GA16DE 1995-1999 US market Nissan Sentra. The harness uses a single wire and does not appear to have coax/copper shielding. On RockAuto these are listed for 100 USD each.
  7. It is a valve cover breather. That is an engine fire waiting to happen. That line will vent oil mist under boost, oil mist + red hot exhaust manifold/turbo = fire.
  8. Another thing to consider when it comes to piston choice is that most of the forged piston options out there are made for like 1000+ whp which means they have fairly short lifespans in street use. They call for fairly large cold clearances which means a lot of blowby and piston slap when cold which means you really have to baby the engine when it's cold with proper warmup. It may even slap when warm if you're just driving on the street. You will also have to compensate in your knock control because the piston slap generates a ton of additional noise on the knock sensors. So there is definitely a significant downside to overbuilding your engine for the intended application. There's no free lunch and it will really suck to buy the wrong parts for your intended application. IMO if I had the engine apart my biggest goal would be to do things like oil pump gears, appropriate head restrictor, crankcase ventilation, baffle plates, etc. Stuff that isn't necessarily expensive but requires tearing deep into the engine to do.
  9. I sent my stuff in to someone more experienced for them to do the entire restoration of the ITBs/manifold. Too much headache for me when I don't have a press or anything at home.
  10. Headlights are very complicated parts, reproducing a series 3 headlight properly is basically impossible without the OEM molds which are likely gone now.
  11. All I can tell you is that I know people that got past G&K without a fully stock RB. A turbo is just an air compressor driven by a pinwheel in the exhaust.
  12. Your logs indicated some kind of electrical issue visible to the ECU so it’s very possible yes.
  13. You could contact JK Technologies in Baltimore, they might be certified. At any rate I really don’t know why you’re trying to get approval from G&K. I am not at all surprised that their response to you was just digging their heels in. Super normal for them. It’s really not that hard to get an otherwise stock R33 with R1 turbos and minor exhaust changes to pass as-is. It’s not like you’re trying to get something with drag cams to pass. You cannot even tell what turbos are on the car without removing the heat shields. I would just use the stock tune as mentioned and run low boost.
  14. Honestly I think the problem there is entirely whether George feels like answering you. My experience is years and years ago he was curious about the idea of testing out HKS VCAM on these cars to try and extract better emissions, but he made it clear that anything deviating from what he knows how to do would be more time + money that the customer would be on the hook for. Like I said before the R1 turbos are fine, the real question mark is the ECU tune.
  15. If you have a catalytic converter you're going to melt it if you keep running it rich like that. Also you're just wasting fuel for no real reason. The factory ECU idles a touch lean I believe and cruises at lambda 1 until you hit boost.
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