joshuaho96

AFAIK didn't some of the race variants of the 32s do this relocation? Just relocate the fuel tank into the trunk.

Nissan thought about it, hence why the R33/R34 puts it behind the RH rear tire. I just don't think you can pull that same trick without a ton of work.

-9s aren't a bad idea if the goal is to make more power, they just have a much narrower compressor map than the -7s and probably whatever TD04HL thing the GTIII-SS is.

The interesting thing about the -9s though was the ceramic ball bearing, at least the 836026-5002S.

When I look up -9s these days some suppliers claim they're discontinued by Garrett. I don't know what the truth there really is.

Multimeter isn't going to be super helpful when a lot of these signals need to be probed dynamically. If you suspect it's a MAF try tapping or jiggling the harness connector while the car is idling to see if it stutters. Also, 1700 RPM cold start idle is super high. You can try ohming the ignitor when cold and then again when hot to see if heat is killing the module for some reason. Fuel pressure requires a tee after the fuel filter to measure with a gauge. My advice is get a Consult cable and you can monitor basically all the ECU I/O and also do some kind of sanity check of the ECU as well. If Consult logging craps out when the engine misfires then you should probably suspect the ECU. If you see weird TPS behavior, either not smoothly following real throttle position or dropping out then diagnose that further. If RPM doesn't make sense then suspect the CAS. If you want to test the CAS further you really need a timing light. If you suspect lean-out and not just a dead misfire under boost stop going into boost immediately until you can be confident the fuel system is trustworthy. You can easily kill the engine doing this.

Life has an interesting way of distracting me from projects. I basically threw them on and I've been running wastegate boost on the stock tune. Response appears to be roughly the same as stock R32 GTR ceramic turbos. If you want a ball bearing CHRA and more power capability I think the Nismo R3 turbos were probably the way to go but they're discontinued now after being sold for like a year at best.

Never a dull moment with these engines is there?

And now you have 500+ pounds of engine hanging basically in free space threatening to split your head open. Not worth the hassle. And I would go as far to suggest that doing turbos with the engine in the car is not the worst idea in the world if you can afford to take your time and don't have space for a car and an engine.

PCV seems a lot more complicated than most give it credit for. It seems like you want to have all of that flow to pull crankcase vacuum when possible, but the moment you achieve a target crankcase vacuum you actually want to close all crankcase ventilation flow to give crankcase filters a chance to work and for all the oil to stop clogging up crankcase breathers. Hopefully by the time the crankcase gets back to atmospheric things the oil isn't sloshing straight up into the ports of the block breathers so there's less oil spitting out of the breathers.

Agreed, you need airbag codes first and foremost.

Start by load testing the battery. If the internal resistance is too high and the energy capacity too low it won't provide the amps needed to crank. From there start measuring voltage at the battery terminals vs at the engine bay where the power goes in. If the voltage drop is substantial especially when cranking you relocated it wrong somehow.

Let's just skip the middleman here and convince BMW to make a mirrored version of their B58 that is somehow direct fit for RB applications.

Pros: you have some rare discontinued JDM tyte mod in your car Cons: it's a parasitic battery drain that does nothing at best

I agree with Duncan's advice which is start by capping off the the recirculating valves so they don't open and see if that fixes the issue. If that works you can start by replacing the rubber hoses. There's one hose that goes from the air chamber to the BOV in the fender which is going to be feeling for it blind. Then it branches off to a Y inside the fender and then two more hoses which shouldn't be too bad to figure out. Keep in mind blocking the bypass valve will cause some weird behavior due to reversion so don't drive it like that too long.

It might be the stock BOVs are done for? I don't think I experience this behavior which would be super obvious on expressway driving. ~3200 RPM going uphill getting into boost is really not unusual for these cars. It is very doughy around 3000 RPM. Turbosmart makes direct replacements in the factory location that you can cap the atmospheric vents on as seen here: https://www.turbosmart.com/product/ts-0203-1072/ If you can actually diagnose it as failed I would probably go straight to those because they actually open all the way unlike the OEM valves which have surprisingly little travel.

You can try DIY Auto Tune, they make the MegaSquirt ECUs and I would be shocked if they sold counterfeit coils which are extremely common for the IGN-1A. Counterfeits will have awful spark energy.

I'm much more positive on downsized turbos these days. Probably not a fan of these V6 turbos because they're a packaging nightmare but an I6 turbo vs modern NA GDI DOHC V8 is pretty comparable these days in terms of general pain in the neck for some reason.

The MAF isn't even used to get the engine to crank over. It's only looking at RPM and coolant temperature if I recall the Nistune documentation correctly.

The reversion issue is very real if you decide to go without any BOV. Or if the OEM bypass valves decide to stick closed from age. I have heard this badly impacts the resulting tailpipe emissions. The hot film MAFs are supposed to fix this by only measuring airflow in one direction.

In my experience it affects idle, it definitely uses the VSS signal to raise the idle target and adjust the open loop AAC duty cycle or something like that. If you push the clutch in while moving it will idle closer to 1200 rpm before very slowly dropping down to 950 rpm. More often than not you need to get it into neutral and make sure the neutral switch actually triggers by wiggling the shifter in neutral before it'll finally decide to drop the idle down.

Isn't that a slightly modified rebranded G42-1450? The GTIII-SS as far as I can tell really is an MHI TD04HL somehow adapted to fit a compact 5 bolt RB26 application.

If the rear diff cover is finned and your gauge cluster has an A-LSD warning light you have the A-LSD.

IIRC a lot of these Japanese chip tunes tend to have epoxy all over the ROM chip because they didn't want to make it too easy for their maps to get dumped. If the board isn't ruined by all that then Nistune is a pretty easy way to get a map figured out if only to reset timing/fueling for local fuel quality.

Good to hear. Any air bubbles in the system will drastically affect A-LSD and ATTESA response time. I personally have never noticed the ATTESA reservoir doing what you said either.