Dorifudo
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Posts posted by Dorifudo
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I’ve got a Cusco 1way front and factory rear with nismo plates, I highly don’t recommend Cusco for a street car as it is quite harsh
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On 20/12/2021 at 2:26 PM, Looney_Head said:
nice, what make was your old gearset? was it JT that your got the PPG through?
i was running a PAR built by Sam at Neat Gearboxes. I got the PPG through JRS Performance,
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I have just recently purchased the PPG Billet Sequential, but i definitely did not pay anywhere near that 32.5k AUD. I am happy with what ive got, as i am not chasing 1200+whp. Compared with my friends OS88 and Samsonas, the samsonas is definitely the business no doubt, but i believe it is a lot better than the ageing OS88
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Hi all,
Just a little update over the last few months.
Car got retuned just before Chrome(NZ equivalent of Powercruise) managed to squeeze a little bit more power out and made 640kw and 987nm.
Unfortunately at the event I had blown my cold side intercooler pipe off 5 times and caused the turbo to overspeed. So off it went to get rebuilt.
Managed to sort a group buy and got myself a PPG Billet sequential.l, and upgraded my old and tired Endless front calipers as we were no longer able to get the rebuilt parts off the shelf.
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Hi all,
Just wanting some advice regarding grout filling blocks.
Long story short, i am looking at building a new short block for my car as the current one has a 1mm crack that has been JB Welded and with the power it will eventually fail.
I have managed to find a virgin block r32 rb26 block, plan is to go billet main caps and plate. After talking to a few people online some people running big power on the cast blocks have also done grout fill along with bracing of some sort. I have talked to my engine builder about the idea of going half grout fill as it is still a street car and the setup for billet block is out of the question.
My engine builder has used Hardblok on old V8's, however they were for dedicated drag cars on methanol so heat is not really an issue. The issue is he has concerns about the grout separating from the bores from heat expansion with the different materials.
Cheers
Jeff
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Gearbox has arrived safely and have bolted it in.
All i can say is wow what a box. It is a wee bit noiser than what i had hoped for however now i can finally give the car a good rip.
It feel really weird being a brand new box, there is no slope in it at all. I had opted for the centre billet plate upgrade and using the stock 5th however for some reason i can hear it whine in 5th while cruising on the motor way.
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46 minutes ago, NobodySpecial said:
Did you actually receive it yet? Because SOP there is to be friendly and talking it up at the beginning (as stated early in this thread) pretty much telling you everything you want to hear including a 8 - 12 week delivery, but then 12 or 13 months later after making payment they no longer have much to say or be friendly about. Not that it matters, because at some point you wise up and realize you’re not alone in being told the same old thing again, and again.
Seems like a nice enough guy and you so want to believe and be understanding of it all, but then have to accept it’s not a coincidence that the same situations have been going on for years with multiple customers. If you’re local or a citizen there at least you can go see them and press forward with a face-face experience. It’s the international customers being required to pay 100% in advance who suffer the most
So none of the people here are me:
https://performanceforums.com/forums/forum/technical/general-aa/208287-par-gearsets
I purchased a full gearset in Dec 2017 and it finally showed up in Jan 2019. It’s a full gearset though and was ordered far enough in advance. It didn’t really cause me any problem other than wondering if I was out the money after so much time. So despite getting a bit twisted up towards the end of that ordeal, I was instead a bit more understanding after finally receiving it.
However, having purchased a used but broken PAR gearset and the purchase being based on the manufacturer living up to their infamous 8 - 12 weeks delivery quote for an input shaft with one gear that were ordered in early Jan. 2019, I’m still tripping over the broken gearbox sitting in my shop 13 months later. I was figuring on 6 or 7 months maybe which would have been fine. Which around that time (July 2020) I was told it was mostly done and would be shipping soon.
However, can you imagine a transmission potentially being down 13+ months later, the parts still unaccounted for, your full payment too, and another promised deadline from 6 weeks ago gone by again without a word being said, and then you can’t even get the courtesy of a reply inquiry about it? Because i’m here to tell you, you better consider it.
On top of that I bought another barely used 3rd Par gearset from a private seller shortly after ordering those parts, not fully understanding what I was getting myself into. So a month or two after being told the parts order was almost completed, I was then told the spline count for the gear was uncertain. I inquired what needed to be done on my end to make sure we get it right and in repeated inquiries nothing more was ever said back to me about it. Then in the last reply I was told this was an unhealthy situation for both of us and the parts would be completed by the end of Dec. Well I may have been direct and to the point, but have never cursed the man or intentionally acted disrespectful. I even told him it’d be even more unhealthy for both if us if the parts show up and don’t fit, making the same inquiry again, but it’s been crickets chirping ever since.
It wasn’t unhealthy at all whenever I discussed possibly ordering another full gearset or custom flywheel. I received an international call on Saturday to talk up the purchase buddy-buddy like then, but that’s par for the course. I was at least woken up enough the 3rd time around to consider it might be wiser to complete this transaction first. Because If doing business with PAR is an unhealthy situation, I can assure it’s not the customer who paid in full and waited patiently well past the same old 8 - 12 weeks falsehood who’s making it unhealthy. So being in manufacturing myself I get the issues and even now the covid realities, but the delays, multiple deadlines not met, excuses, 1+ year deliveries, and so on have been going on for years
I’m not hear to cuss or carry on or put any person or company down, it’s just to share my experiences and having looked around at the experiences of others who dealt direct. If I had been warned to buy two or three gearsets to avoid waiting over a year later to receive replacement parts then at least people can be prepared for that reality. It might be different with a shop that specializes in supplying particular gearsets from them and maybe can grab parts off the shelf or possibly has a priority relationship, but can’t honestly say since my experiences are only going direct. So looking back at paying the higher cost of PPG, Hollinger, Quaife etc. I’d have rather invested there because at this point I have no confidence in the manufacturer I invested in.
So I own three gearsets and they know that, yet 13 months later am still waiting on a reply to my last inquiry in addition to the the parts that are still outstanding. Not sure where I go from here other that to just count it a loss when the next failure or worn part eventually occurs. So I really have nothing to lose at this point by putting it out here for everyone to see. Certainly not going to order another gearset or two thinking I might be covered vs. going somewhere else.
Take it for what it’s worth. You can’t say nobody told you, but honestly my hope is for anyone else to receive better service and personal character you can believe in than myself and others have received.
Nobody Special.
Sorry to hear about your experience, I got my gearset through Neat Gearboxes. There was a hold up of about 4 weeks due me wanting the 26 spline input shaft as there were none in stock. All up I think it has taken 7 weeks from putting in the order to it being built and fitted into the donor box
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Treated myself to a wee xmas present, my tuner had managed to score an awesome deal for the link dash, so i went for the 7" dash with the Mako dash mount to complete replace the stock cluster. It was a bit of a mission as the R32 ran a mechanical speedo drive, however friend of my had a spare s13 speedo drive the converts mechanical to digital. We are currently working out how to get the power steer to work, as i believe the original cluster used the mechanical speedo input to send a signal to the hicas ecu to feed power to the power steer.
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Managed to track down some old school Bride Euro reclinables, they were pretty stiff to say the least but for $300 for the pair I could say no as my stock gtr seats are mint and didn’t want to ruin them. Got them reupholstered in alcantara (that stuff is $$$) new springs, cushions and strengthened bolsters. Now sitting on genuine bride rails
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23 minutes ago, BK said:
Absolutely. 👍 That's why I opted out of the 6870 and went the 6466 as originally discussed with CRD. I was like, guys like yourself @r32-25t, @hattori hanzo, @Dorifudo were making stupid power in the 500 - 600rwkw region with them, 140+ MPH trap with comparable turbo response to low mount twins !
Sounded like more of a win than any of the EFR or Garrett stuff to me. Remember I came from plain bearing big HKS with light switch delivery.
i'm glad i went with the 6466, i did get offered a 6870 for only a few hundred dollars more at the time but decided it was too big for a street car. Friend of mine has the 6266 with a 1.01AR isnt really that much more responsive than the 6466 with a 1.01AR.
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Just had an update from Sam at Neat Gearboxes. Gearbox build is in its final assembly and will be shipped in the next few days. Pretty excited to say the least. Opted for the PAR straight cut synchro 1st-4th with stock 5th, PPG centre billet plate and upgraded 26 spline input shaft.
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On 10/12/2020 at 1:09 AM, GTSBoy said:
If the ECU is getting a speed signal then the HICAS CU is getting it. They're all on the same bus. (So long as you haven't damaged the appropriate wiring, that is).
The signal goes nowhere near the "pump". There is a solenoid valve on the front rack. That is PWM controlled by the HICAS CU to provide assistance from hydraulic pressure. It could be stuffed. Check for voltage there and see if it is still even receiving power. If it is not, then the power feed wiring could be at fault. I burnt that wire when my oxy sensor had a severe problem and damaged a couple of wires (they run in the same loom).
Something weird has happend, when infirst start the car, i would have powersteering for about 3kms then steering would get heavy and stay like that until i start the car again.
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Hi All,
I have recently changed my dash to one of Link's new digital dashes, managed to get the speedo and odometer working by using the S13 speedo sensor as they run a analog to digital converter and sends the signal to the ecu then onto the dash. My problem now though is that i feel like i have no power steer at low speeds, which i am guessing with the factory setup the speedo drive cable goes to the dash then from there sends a signal to the hicas pump( i have removed hicas)
Unfortunately my mechanic isnt really too familiar with it so we are a bit stuck. Any ideas? im guessing in theory i need to get the speed signal to the hicas ecu?
Regards
Jeff
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1 minute ago, BK said:
It will eventually if you keep doing it. Remember even on your new PAR synchro box, they are just standard Nissan brass synchros. They only tolerate that sort of abuse for so long, then you'll see this on your transmission drain plug:
Yea, the stock box really is a ticking time bomb.
I did consider the PAR dogbox, but unfortunately not many people near where i live has a dogbox to kind of get an idea on what its like for a daily.
At least i got a good deal with Sam, i could sell it and go dogbox later down the track.
Another hard thing to justify going all out is we only have 6 drag meets a year, and after my last stint i am banned until i get a full cage.
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21 minutes ago, BK said:
I'm crushed !
Sorry, fixed my own post. Man, I was all pumped for you to start banging gears through with the 6466 !😁 Sorry but it will be pretty hard to bang a 9 out with a synchro box. Not impossible - but very,very difficult. I like the 143mph trap though 👍 and if I'm somewhere similar with my 6466 setup after the final tune I'll be pretty satisfied.
So I take it you've got the straight cut PAR synchro set coming then ? I am still very keen to hear feedback from this transmission once in as this would be my choice for a synchro gearset over an OS giken these days.
Surprisingly tho, my current stock box has no issues flat shifting at 9k rpm. I messaged Neat last week and the input shaft was getting heat treated, so once thats all done it shouldnt take too long. Fingers cross it will arrive here after new years, also opted for the OS centre billet plate as well.
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3 hours ago, BK said:
Hey this setup sounds familiar 😀
Mate you'll like it, as with any dog box my PAR does full power clutchless upshifts. Who needs a sequential ?
Hey @BKi opted for the synchro box as I still wanted a semi comfortable street car haha
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3 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:
If its holding up to 600+ kW in yours then the PAR must be the goods!
There's a few guys in NZ running the Speedtek and putting some decent power through them so hopefully it will be all good!
My balls are on the line if its not!
The gearbox is currently still getting built, just waiting on a few bits as i had opted for the GM 26 spline input shaft. Hopefully it would allow me to be a bit more aggressive on the shifts.
Yea theres a few NZs running the speedtek gearsets and seem to be good.
Jeff
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3 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:
Great work! Hopefully a 9 second pass is within reach (without breaking shit....)
Yea would love to see it hitting a 9, however i am banned until i get a cage haha.
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Well its been a while. Had the car back on the dyno due to a fuel pressure cut and decided while it was on the dyno diagnosing problems we would tweak the tune a wee bit more. Ended up only making an extra 10hp however we had gained 50nm throughout the whole rev range. So now making 626rwkw and 950nm.
Had a drag event on last month so decided to take the car down and give it a shot on the stock box. To anyone who thinks drag racing is easy...well its not my first pass was a 12.5@126mph as the car completely bogged and almost stalled 😅played around with the launch control and managed a slightly better 11.5@128mph. Then for the last pass as i needed to go to a birthday party i just sent it and ended up with a 10.3@143mph. **please note the 60ft is 1.802 not 0.802 haha
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Hey @Shoota_77
Good to see your car coming along nicely. Be really interesting with how your gearset turns out. I was in the same dilemma about 2 months ago regarding gearset. Being in NZ one of the recommended gearbox rebuilders only recommended me to go for the OS gearset but was going to cost me about $12.5k NZD which i wasnt prepared to pay. I ended up getting in touch with Sam from Neat Gearboxes and settled with the PAR straight cut synchro box with the OS centre billet plate.
Jeff
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20 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Why does the last part of this sound like it is untrue? Just work out what the signal to the original dash gauge looks like and add it as an input to a custom display element on the dash.
Sorry bad english, I have thought about that tracing the wiring diagram to get the input signal, however i still want the centre console to look stockish.
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Hi all,
Just wondering what is involved with using a R33 GTR triple din gauge into a R32 GTR? Reason is i have replaced the standard gtr cluster with a 7" Aim digital dash and im unable to to have the torque split displaying, and having a torque split controller i just want to see where its set to. So wondering if its actually possible to use the R33 GTR one has it has the front torque gauge.
Cheers
Jeff
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On 14/06/2020 at 12:07 AM, ido09s said:
what mph does yours run? have you raced it?
Did the drags a week ago, managed a 10.3@143mph with a 1.8 60ft
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I agree, dyno is only a tuning tool the the dyno numbers are really just a pissing contest. Real way to see power is the mph at the end of the 1/4, with my power im expecting to hit the 145-147mph trap speed. My purpose of the car is a weekend toy, doing the old school pick ups and the occasional coffee runs
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Cusco lsd for R32 gtr.
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
The lsd is quite aggressive, so when turning corners at low speed, it clunks and hops, the steering is fighting you as well. At medium speed it’s fine. I personally would go for either quaife or ats