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About jlabsurf

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    Rank: RB20E
  • Birthday February 5

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  • Car(s)
    94' GT-R 95' GTS-T
  1. Ideally I’d get it machined but I’m not going to have an opportunity to get the car to the shop as it’s being shipped very soon. Do you think putting on another oem gasket should do the trick? My cam seals are leaking up front and I’m wondering if the oil could travel back towards that part of the block? That’s just wishful thinking though 😪
  2. That’s what I initially thought... but the head underneath the valve cover doesn’t look wet except for a small spot or two. Look at the difference in these photos..
  3. Pulled the engine out this weekend because I'm upgrading to new turbos and doing a bunch of other needed maintenance. I noticed a few small leaks on the turbo side of the block which I believe were coming from the valve cover but upon further inspection I'm starting to notice that the head gasket seems to be the spot its leaking at? My coolant has been in the car for a while and its not murky or brown at all. Oil is also perfectly fine and normal in color after 2000kms. No white smoke or anything on startup or driving. Not really sure where this leak is coming from or if its an old leak that was never cleaned? Although it looks pretty fresh. Apologize for shitty pictures its the best I could do.
  4. A similar issue was still happening before I even installed the lockbar just in a different fashion. Hicas light would come on for a second every 5 seconds or so whenever I had the 4WD fuses in.
  5. While there are a lot of places around here that can take a look at the car it is illegal for Japanese dealerships and/or mechanics to work on cars that are illegally modified. Basic mods or even stickers on windows make a car illegal here. You will not pass JCI/shaken inspection with these and you will get denied anytime you try and get work done on your car. These people do not take risks with the law out here. That being said, being in a very remote part of Japan it is up to myself to fix these issues. I know that the car has to make up for the power steering pump when you turn your wheels but it still happens even when the car is sitting still with the wheels straight forward. for the lines I used the nuts and fittings they supply in the gktech kit to block off the lines at the end near the rear hicas pump. Nothing done with the hicas solenoids. It’s very hard to find 10mm power steering line here so I am waiting for some to come from online so I can loop the power steering pump and delete a bunch of the junk.
  6. HICAS wont go into diagnostic mode. No matter how many times I've tried (100+).
  7. Here goes a long and probably hard to follow list of another ATESSA/HICAS thats going on with the car. So whenever I put my 4WD fuses back in the car to run ATESSA I get issues with my HICAS light coming on every 10 seconds or so and then I could feel my steering jerk/get heavy for about half a second whenever the light came on. When I'd pull my 4WD fuses I wouldn't have the issue of the HICAS light coming on every 10 seconds anymore and I could drive fine with perfectly fine power steering and everything would be fine apart from not having atessa working or abs. I finally decided to install a GKTech lockbar yesterday and ever since I have I'm running into even more issues. Now with the lockbar installed my HICAS light will come on for ~3-4 seconds at a time very sporadically and the steering jerks/gets heavy for no apparent reason. Also my cars headlights will get dim and my idle will drop randomly along with these issues. Only since installing the lockbar. What the hell is going on? There's no way these issues can all be related can they? Power steering fluid is topped up and I've googled so much but cant seem to find whats going on. I know this thread is a lot but I really appreciate the help.
  8. Just saw a leak underneath my car and thought it was a transfer case leak but it was actually gear oil.. After I wiped it down and drove it for a few days it was back but dripping down on the sides.. Which led me to believe it was coming from the top of the transmission so I checked my shifter and there's a ton of gear oil leaking from it. The last owner of the car bought one of those shitty Chinese 40$ short shifters, the one right here . It looks like when they installed it they didn't secure the shift boot onto the shifter housing I also noticed upon taking it apart I noticed it doesn't have any sort of gasket or anything. On the Nismo shifter I think I see a gasket or two that should be used? Is the shifter supposed to have a gasket inside of the shift housing or is it just the shift boot that is supposed to hold in the gear oil with no gaskets?
  9. So I finally went around and got the AEM UEGO wideband on my car today. I'm running 14.7 at idle 14.5 at light cruise 13.5 on light acceleration and 13-13.8 on full WOT. I also only get 12-13 psi in boost with the stock restrictor removed and full breather mods. I also have an issue where my car jerks when my fuel tank gets below half a tank. Tomei fuel pump was put in about a year ago.. What I've ready online leads me to believe that I'm running way too lean on WOT. What should I start checking first?
  10. I accidentally uploaded the same picture twice, its just cylinder # 4 that is dark like that on one side. All of the rest seem to be the same with slight color on them. So its probably an injector issue at high load? I'm afraid that it is an issue of my engine leaning out because I have my downpipe, exhaust and intakes on without a tune. Also my o2 sensor on my cat was chopped by the previous owner. I just don't understand how it could be the coils or the fuel pump when I just replaced them
  11. Today I was doing a second gear pull and at about 6000 I had a huge hesitation as if I had let off the gas and a huge pop/backfire. My power band has also been acting really funky lately, the car feels like it goes in and out of power almost. I pulled my spark plugs to check the overall health and I'll be compression testing soon, just waiting on my buddy to head over with the tester. Any opinions or thoughts on what I should check out first? I'm thinking it has something to do with fuel as I run into more problems on a low fuel tank. It seems like there might be oil on the threads of the spark plugs? The previous owner had a compression test done about 1 year and 7 months ago, I've included pictures of the test and all of the plugs. I'm still running the stock injectors and I don't know when the fuel filter was last replaced. Spark plug is a BCPR7EIX. Mods- HKS Downpipe Catback Exhaust Apexi Intake Splitfire Coils Tomei Fuel Pump New WS coil pack harness Re-soldered and cleaned MAF Sensors
  12. Do you know where I can get a manual online in PDF format?
  13. Thank you for the help, I'll go through all of the resistance readings today and see if that shows me anything. I'm definitely going to go for a Do-Luck sensor, do you think the Tarzan is worth spending more money? I actually was leaning towards the nitrogen pump accumulator as well. My mechanic has one here in Japan for me already. So I'll give that a go too. Yeah, I would get random voltage drops and stuff like that too. I'll have to check that out thanks.
  14. I'm not sure if this is allowed as it's my first post but here it goes, I recently purchased a '94 R32 GT-R about a month ago and everything was great at first, and still is even in 2WD. About a week after purchasing the car I noticed that the 4WD and ABS light would come on about every 1 in 10 startups(the lights wouldn't come on for about 1-3 seconds after startup and stay on). All I would have to do is turn the car off and back on again and the lights would go away. Then it started becoming more and more frequent to where eventually it was almost every startup the 4WD and ABS lights would come on. Most times I'd just move the car to a different spot and then turn it off and on again and the 4WD and ABS lights wouldn't come on if I restarted the car enough. Now the lights will come on no matter what and I cannot get the ATESSA to work at all. I've pulled the fuses as I don't want to damage anything or potentially ruin the pump(if it hasn't been ruined already). This is the first GT-R I've ever owned so I searched the forums and saw the ATESSA fault code list. My car is pulling code 16 (lateral g sensor or circuit). So I checked my g sensor and its still white not red. I also checked the fluid reservoir in the driver side of the boot and it's a tiny bit above the max line. Side note, I used to notice my car used to do a weird clicking every 4-5 seconds in the boot and sometimes the 4WD light would flash when it happened. I've done quite a bit of research online so far but I'm not really sure where to go from here. Any advice or help would be much appreciated.
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