So many variables! It would be impossible to say for a few.
If you can get a laser thermometer they are only $20 on eBay. Every tyre has its own sweet spot for pressure. What you want to check is the following for each tyre asap once you get off the track (a tyre pyrometer would be better but costs $$$)
You want the temps to be even across the whole the tyre. If the centre is lower than the inside and outside you need to add more pressure. If the inside and outside is higher then the centre , then you need to remove psi
If the outside is higher than the middle and inside you need more camber
If the inside is higher than the middle and outside you need to remove camber.
Suspension wise I run
Front camber -2.5
Caster 9 degrees
Tow 1.5mm out
Rear camber -1
340mm ride height.
Usually I'll start with both front and rear shocks on the centre settings. Get the tyre pressures right first and then adjust as following:
Try and work out based on feel if there is too much roll in the car, you need the car to roll side to side to generate grip, but also you need it to be nimble and also not roll so much that you run out of suspension. Hard to explain how you feel this
after this I will then adjust per the following:
Too much understeer (stiffen the rear or soften the front)
Too much oversteer (soften the rear and stiffen the front)
If the suspension is not getting to where you need then you can:
Too much understeer (remove psi in front of add psi in rear tyres)
Too much oversteer (add psi in front and remove psi in rear)
Check your pressures after every run. This is critical! When you buy the tyres the dealer should be able to give you an idea on estimated warm pressures for your tyres. Remember these pressure are measured warm not cold!! Adjust from this base.
For smsp I usually run the front a little stuff so it will understeer a little at the limit, gives me confidence for T1 knowing the rear won't snap