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Tobz

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Tobz last won the day on January 3

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About Tobz

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    Rank: RB25DE

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    '00 R34 GTT
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  1. It was a super solid base to work from! Love the little beast!
  2. i have a sandwich plate on another sandwich plate that is then on the factory oil cooler plate, doesn't seem to cause any issues....
  3. I used the crank motorsport seat subframes and just universal rails clearance was more than fine. Seats are a little hard but more than fine, nice bolstering. Overall I really like them
  4. Finally got the car back together and took itmfor a drive. Changes to the intercooler and external wastegate have changed everything. Before I was told the turbo was being restricted either by the intercooler or exhaust. Having swapped out the return flow and also going to an external gate has released the restriction It needs to be retuned as the power is defo coming on early, but also the ebc cannot control boost. Did a slow pull in second and the boost crept past 20psi which should be the limit. It's a Mac valve and a 14psi spring on the gate. Looks like it may need some setup done on it AFRs all looked good. Trying to organise a time to get retuned now. But overall so far I'm very happy Also added a 5inch body venom cat, installed some Sparco r100 seats and got the harness installed!
  5. its pretty obvious, the paint on the F40 was so thin that you could see the carbon fibre weave.... They didnt even paint the car properly. On top of that instead of making the car out of good strong steel, they used fibre cloth and glue..... who does that? And to access the engine, you dont just pull a lever and it opens like a well engineered AU, you need to unlock two latches, get a mate to help you lift it and then use a flimsy rod to keep it open, no gas struts! Then they were so lazy developing the engine that it needs a service every 5000kms! and its only a 2.9l not a nice 4l straight six or a 5l windsor V8... its so small and inferior! I have no idea why the F40 costs so much when an AU is obviously the superior machine
  6. Actually all makes sense now, I'm making up the same water line for mine and keeping the return as the stock item. For some reason I was picturing it wrong in my head and it all didn't make sense till I went back under the car just then
  7. Your new water return line, did you connect it to behind the head or did you cut the hard pipe and attach it there? EDIT: Hang on, how does the water line to your turbo work?
  8. Way I see it the front does 75% of the braking, the rears are just there for the ride... As such there's not much benefit upgrading as the original rears don't get all that hot either. For me I think it's mostly cosmetic. Alpha omega reckon the bias shouldn't be effected with either the stock or Brembo rears. saying that with the massive 350mm rear rotors the brakes are almost stone cold after a track session, they either do very little braking or the heat is dissipating really well from the increase in rotor size. I'm just not sold they are worth the additional $$$ Also never tried just the brembos on the front. But I'm sure others have
  9. I do highly recommend the attakd 2 price rotors at $500 though. Defo worth the extra dollars. There's some slotted and dimpled on eBay for 288 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Slotted-Pair-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-for-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evo-X-2-0L-Turbo-/154144900775?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 But for only slightly more, get the attakd Although not available atm usually there's a few sets of calipers on eBay for around 500 I run Feredo DS Uno pads, but there are lots of options if you aren't doing a lot of track work I also did the Brembo rears, not worth it, but I wanted it to look consistent front to rear
  10. I didn't think it would be much of an issue. But thought I would consult first
  11. New studs arrived and now the manifold fits perfect. Looks like the studs warped pretty badly, but the manifold didn't... Which works for me! Just need my new turbo studs and a silicone joiner to arrive and then it should be all back together. Also does anyone know what the effect of swapping to a proper cooler from a return flow, and going from an iwg to ewg would have on the tune? I'm getting the car retuned either way, but just interested to know if I can take it for a bit of drive to test everything is bolted up right (and get it on boost to see if all the couplers and such are all holding fine).
  12. Been lurking on carsales again.... just saw this and had to share. The car actually looks really clean and nice, but the way some people try and sell their car is absolutely terrible. Would it kill them to spend 5 minutes writing a small description on the car? I know i really want to buy this car as the family will love the rear sunvisors! 1996 Nissan Skyline GTS-T R33 Manual-SSE-AD-7000281 - carsales.com.au
  13. Interesting discussion. I have 285rwkw currently and when i got the car i struggled a lot for traction. I actually loved it as it was a lot of fun to keep it pointing in a straight line! Now im not 100% sure what got rid of it as a i did a lot of things at once, so one of these may be the key. Just not sure which: Changed suspension all round to MCA Blues (mid setting, its stiff, but not rock hard) Changed almost all my control arms front and rear and got a wheel alignment in line with the recommendations in this forum Pineapples on the rear subframe Locked the HICAS (If it was anything, I would bet it was this) Changed my front and rear swaybars to whiteline (from stock) Now the part that made no sense, I got some new 18inch wheels, but decided i would just reuse some tyres i had lying around for the street. They are 225/40 R18's and are Monster Street Series.... these are not the best tyres ever made and are ridiculously skinny for the power (i bought them as i needed to pass a rego inspection)... however somehow the car had traction.... no idea how! Once i have got the car moving, the rear does not break traction in a straight line and full power..... Made no sense to me so i went to a dyno to check the power to make sure the car actually made 280rwkw... thought something may be wrong, but second dyno had similar power. On the track i use 265/35 R18 Kumho V70a (Medium Compound) front and rear and i can be really aggressive on applying the power on corner exit... sooo i dont think ive helped here, but ive definitely added more things to read.
  14. Yer manifold was impossible to remove, used many breaker bars, however I have a replacement manifold from hypergear to go on. The new manifold may also be warped though as it's a stock manifold with an external gate welded on. I'll change the studs and see where that leaves me and then contact hypergear if there is an issue
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