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Tobz

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About Tobz

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  1. Hey all! so this story goes back a few years! At a bucks party me and a 7 other friends who all owned Toyota 86’s at the time decided to buy a 1998 ST04 Toyota Celica for the 24h lemons racing. Best drunk decision ever. We bought the car next day and started the journey. our first race was at Wakefield and we finished the race! We learnt a lot and due to poor planning only had shitty brake pads, so we learnt how to do brake changes in 7 minutes while we did driver swaps. Was an awesome race and we finished 14th (lost a bit of time due to brakes) our next event was in Winton. Again we finished we had very minimal issues, but we developed a shifting issue and lost most gears. We finished with only 3rd gear. Turns out our shifter cables failed. our third event was at Winton and this time we had bearing and driveshaft failures. We ended up retiring at the start of the second day. our last event in this car was back at old faithful Wakefield park. We had driveshaft nut issues, stupid new driveshaft nuts were weak as, and just stripped and let go. We called around and managed to get some off a wrecker, we also needed to clean up the threads as they got stripped. But we fixed that, and a few other stupid small issues, including a loose seat, a wheel that overheated so bad it made the brake rotor holes oval. Anyway we finished the race and decided we wanted a faster car Which leads me to late last year. We picked up a series 2, 2000 N15 Pulsar SSS. 180,000kms and it is in terrible condition. Perfect for lemons. to date we havent done much, we have stripped the interior, removed the sound deadening and bought a lot of parts. Today we drained and removed the radiator and drained and removed the gearbox. We will be pulling the engine out next time we get together and here is my question. if you were us, and you were pulling the engine out, what preventative maintenance or upgrades would you do for a car that will be doing cheap endurance racing? So far we have the following planned: upgraded thick all aluminium radiator oil cooler and relocation new engine mounts Ceramic spring Clutch new rear main seal new rocker cover gasket new water pump pads, rotors, braided lines springs and shocks 15inch rims and tyres wheel bearings normal stuff like harness, seat and an AGI cage plus the usual plugs, leads, oils and filters will continue to post updates IMG_2159.MOV
  2. Did a bit more work on the car last night, got the rear upper camber arms on, super simple took maybe 10 mins tops. Thankfully that has removed the crappy eccentric washers that come stock and will give me enough adjustability to get the camber right. also took the car around the block for the first time this year! That was an accomplishment! Just waiting on some catch can parts so I can drive it for an alignment also worked on my front headlight, sanded it back with 600 then went over that with some 1000. Sprayed it with some clear and they look really good and should last a many many years before they start to yellow again. They are super clear now but there are some micro cracks all through it. But I’m not too worried about that. will also need to get some 2000 sandpaper on it and a cut and polish to remove the orange peel. That will need to wait a week or two for the paint to cure. That should increase the clarity significantly Before and after shots below
  3. I thought I was getting close to get an alignment and start to enjoy the car again. But more jobs now! got the car on the ground and realised the rears have way too much camber now that I got the ride height correct at 345mm on the rear and 355 on the front. anyway ordered rear upper camber arms to correct the rear camber, also got the eccentric washer elimination kit to get the rear right. also for some reason I decided I should also do the steering rack bushings. So that is all in the mail. after that just have the oil catch can, gearbox shifter springs and finish cleaning up the headlights and I think it will finally be ready to go! Starting to get excited now! after all that I still have a new GTR master cylinder and the Cusco cage to install, but they can wait for now
  4. Small wins this weekend. have finally installed my gk tech steering rack spacers, inner tie rods and outer tie rods. So now have a bit more steering angle, have adjusted the tie rods to remove bump steer, and for the toe roughly right also my new street rims arrived Friday (running wedsport SA70’s (18x9 +20) for track days and Koya SF05’s (18x9 +30) for the street. Very happy with the look, will take a proper photo once off the hoist
  5. Small progress, been sick for the last few weeks. got the oil cooler all installed. Was a real hassle as the oil sandwich plate bolt blitz provided was too short, it would work if you didn’t have the pipes attached, but there was only a few threads of engagement. Took me a while to figure this out. Got a replacement saas bolt from supercheap and it worked perfect. No leaks now the list of activities is slowly shrinking and hopefully can drive it again soon.
  6. Got a bit done on the car today! Tomorrow I’ve got my lemons team coming around so we can strip our n15 pulsar sss in preparation for cage installation that hopefully should arrive in the next few weeks. on the skyline managed to get my caster rods, front upper arms and new tie rod ends on. I think suspension wise I only have the rear pineapples left. Not sure if I will need rear camber arms, only need 1degree on the rear and I’m hoping that can be done with the stock parts.
  7. Seats work really well, they don’t seem cheap, they are comfortable enough. I would say it lacks bolstering which can be annoying on longer trips and maybe some additional padding wouldn’t go astray. Overall I am happy, but they are a bit hard and lack bolstering
  8. As @GTSBoy states these are not road legal. Another reason I wanted a fairly standard looking seat in the car so as not to arouse suspicion.... I figured if it says recaro or bride or velo it’s pretty obviously aftermarket. Whereas these without branding may have a slight chance of not being picked up. also have kept the originals just in case I ever need to go over the pits
  9. Well had a fun day finishing the battery relocation. Overall I’m pretty happy, just need to extend my negative cable later on as the original ground I found was not sufficient. overall pretty happy with the R33 battery tray in the R34 boot also the bus bar made the wiring really clean in the bonnet for those interested I used: 8m of 0 gauge (53mm) of copper wire (was probably a meter or two too much, but I didn’t want to have too little). Used this for positive and negative and used heat shrink on the ends to identify positive and negative Battery terminals (I used some called military spec, not sure what makes them that) 200A circuit breaker Heavy duty 4 way bus bar Heat shrink (14mm) Copper cable lugs Projecta Battery Terminal Shims
  10. Better than stock, not like a real bucket seat though, heaps more support than stock, heaps less than a dedicated bucket. I think it will be good enough, especially with a harness
  11. Also I think getting it low requires a bottom mounted seat, side mounts add to much height
  12. Won’t be able to get fuel level or speed without running your own sensor. As said before the car can only show the below. Anything additional will require you to add your own sensors to the new ECU or Dash Ign Map Inj Map AirFlow Injector Boost Acceler. Ign/Inj Cranking Wtr Temp Rev/Idle
  13. I found with the seats, rails and crank Motorsport bracket, my seats are actually lower than stock now
  14. Just to help out, not sure if you are even still looking into this @thenixtone i bought the autotechnica ssp67 seats i bought the autotechnica seat rails and these seat subframes from crank Motorsport: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173094681032 all bolted in with no issues at all, no drilling, just bolt it in
  15. If it was me i would get a haltech or even adaptronic modular ecu. They both have can bus and means you can then run something like this https://www.powertunedigital.com/ and pop it in a R34 MFD hood would still need oil temp, pressure and afr sensors though. I have an adaptronic select and that has limited me a bit so i had to get a Race Technologies Dash 2 Pro (which includes logging for track work) along with the oil temp, pressure and afr sensors and will be mounting it in the GTR MFD hood.
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