Tobz
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Posts posted by Tobz
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Cage arrived today!!!
I got the Cusco 4 Point Full Capacity Cage which follows the roof line for the main hoop and goes over the top of the windows for the rear supports. I've ordered an FIA 40mm Roll Cage Join to add a harness bar across the two rear struts.
Here is some pictures
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So parts have arrived. Turns out the top is an AN10 already so no need for any adaptors for the top
Here is a picture of the can with the top 90 degree connector at the top, front male to male connectors and the straight hose fittings.
On the side of the push in fittings for the engine and the 90 degree fittings for that. Also came with a little 3d printed cover to help knock the push fittings in
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Just in case anyone else buys a Cusco Safety 21 4 point full capacity Rollcage (281 270 A20) to get the harness bar in i have bought two of the FIA Roll Cage Joints and will weld them to the cage with a piece of 40mm tubing. the joints are available here https://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-40mm-fia-roll-cage-joint-kit.html
This allows the harness bar to be removed when not needed
The add on bars cusco sell directly do not have the strength to be used for a harness.
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Once I get the shed setup, maybe I'll remove the engine and do the head drain & baffled sump.
The restrictors will just send me on a slippery slope!
Also great idea on the nipples for the catch can!
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38 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Ah ok
I didn't think about the rear seat.
Found a solution, was suprisingly simple. Cusco sell an add on bar that goes to the rear hoop for a harness and it takes maybe 5 mins to put on and off .. will defo get that
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I'm a complicated guy
But the agi rear struts require removal of the rear seat
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I have an AGI cage in my current cars and I do love them, but for a street car I'm trying to go with a more subtle approach. Will review options later on when I actually install the belts
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8 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Have a read of the oil control thread, it should answer all your questions.
I feel the more I read the more confusing it gets.
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CAMS also allow up to 45 degrees
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2 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Just a heads up, using the factory rear seatbelt mounts for your harness is quite dangerous due to the angle of the harness
Did a bit of research into this and Takata actually recommend attaching the belts to the factory rear seatbelt points as they have been crash tested and are within the acceptable rear angle for a harness. The problem is when you bolt it to the floor under your seat. They also recommend no more than a 45 degree angle down for the harness.
http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/06/takata-ask-the-expert-answers/
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I was looking into a baffled sump as well, but there are so many differing opinions on this!!
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36 minutes ago, GeeDog said:
oiling issues that RBs tend to have on the track
Any advice on this would be appreciated. I've been reading the excess oil in the head is more a RB26 issue rather than a 25 issue. It seems a few people have just been adding an extra litre of oil and that along with the extra oil in cooler seems to have been sufficient for others. But if I have misread this let me know as I was thinking about doing a head drain kit (and can that be done with the engine in?). I also read somewhere that restricting the oil passages in the motor is not recommended for the 25?
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The MCA's came with the car, I had reds on the RX8 and had uprated Whiteline bars, but it needed more bar for sure (back when reds were only $1600!!)
The Blues are definitely going need to be upgraded in the future, but for now they should be more than fine.
With the harness I'll be removing the back seat during comps and will be attaching the harness to the rear seatbelt mounts.
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Defo going adjustable front and rear. I wanted to go thicker as currently the amount of body roll is a little rediculous and I prefer a slightly stiffer setup. It may mean I'll need to swap the MCA's at a later stage... But thanks for the heads up may do a bit more research before pulling the pin.
And basically just hide the cage is my plan. That's why I went a black 4 point cage with no cross bar, so will just have the rollbar behind the seat following the roof and the C pillar supports running along the the rear window so it's a bit harder to see. Rear seats are also able to stay in with this setup so it's not as obvious from the outside.
If it becomes a problem it shouldn't be too hard to engineer as it complies with everything I've read in the engineering guidelines.
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Hey All,
Recently bought an R34 Skyline Coupe to replace my RX8 Track Car. The RX8 was unregistered and only for track usage, and I wanted a car with more power and something I could drive on weekends. Was really between this and an older Series 1 BMW 135i. Ended up with the Skyline as I love how it looks, all the aftermarket support, and also easier and cheaper to work on.
I found a car that belonged to mamber on here, so this will be a continuation of the this build thread:
When I bought the car it had the following:
- 287rwkw on e85
- Adaptronic ECU
- Hypergear ATR45SAT turbo
- NPC HD Organic Clutch
- Walbro 255 E85 fuel pump
- 1000cc E85 rated Bosch injectors
- Splitfire coilpacks
- 3inch, with mufflers and high flow cat
- Blitz return flow intercooler
- Apexi Power Intake Panel Filter
- Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back Blow Off Valve
- Thick Alloy Radiator
First thing I did was prepped it for the SDMA hillclimb here in Canberra. So installed:
- Project Mu HC800 pads front and rear
- RDA Slotted and Dimpled Rotors Front and Rear
- Motul RBF600 Fluid
- MCA Blues Front and Rear (Rears were on the car, so just needed to add the fronts)
- Wedssport SA70 18x9 +22
- Hankook RS3 245/40 R18's
- Rolled the rear guards
- Normal fluid changes (Those new Nulon push packs for the gearbox and diff oil are amazing!)
Car ran really well, being new to it i was never going to get the most from it, managed a 49.66 lap, but a low 48/high 47 is defo going to happen.
The Project Mu pads were the loudest pads in the world! Bought the project mu shims and it fixed it right up!
Took it to a dyno day here in Canberra and it ran a solid 271rwkw on a day when most people were not achieving their best results by 10-15% so was on point and the tune looked safe as.
Also did a skid pan day, and it was super predictable and fun!
Have ordered the following parts:
- Cusco Safety 21 Roll Cage - 4 Point with full capacity (keeps rear seats, follows the roof line and rear window line)
- Blitz Oil Cooler Kit Type E RD (Fits in right fender)
- Raceworks Catch Can (3 Litre) (See https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309239-oil-catch-can-diy-installation/page/3/#comments)
- Race Technology Dash 2 Pro (Was looking to upgrade the gauges so I have warnings if any temps or pressures were out of ordinary, but found a good deal on this and will also do lap time deltas, so figured it was worth the little extra
Have also had a chat to DVS and they will be looking to fix the tune a little to make it safer for track use (was perfectly fine for street usage, but may be safer to richen up a little for the track)
Future Purchases
- 27mm Front and 24mm rear swaybars
- 4 point Takata Race 4 Harness (compatible with HANS and has ASM)
- Sparco R100 Reclining Seats
No idea what the future holds, but my aim is to keep the car very drivable on the street (predominately will be a weekend car) and the mods are all going to be to try and keep the car looking as stock as possible. Also plan to probably keep this car forever, i think the older it gets, the better it will be
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On 27/08/2019 at 1:29 PM, Tobz said:
1 x Raceworks AN-12 to AN-10 reducer (tbc if male to male (rwf-815-12-10bk) or female to male (rwf-950-12-10bk)) (for the outlet port of the catch can)
Can confirm the top of the can is a male AN-12 fitting so ordered the rwf-950-12-10bk
Parts should all arrive in the next week or two so hopefully can then comment on the install process soon!
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Hey All,
Know this is an old thread but thought i would add my own experiences to this as I am in the process of installing mine and found some products that may make this simpler. I've gone with a catch can with two inputs, one outlet. The inputs for the catch can are already AN-10 so no adapters needed and the output on the can is AN-12 so just need a simple AN-12 to AN-10 reducer.
I am in the process of purchasing the following:
1x Raceworks Catch Can - 3 Litre BLACK ALY-063BK
3 Metres x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Rubber Hose - AN-10
3 x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Hose Ends 90 Degree AN-10 (2 for the rocker covers, one for the top of the catch can)
2 x Raceworks - 400 Series Push Lok Hose Ends - Straight AN-10 (for the catch can)
2 x Raceworks Male Flare Union AN-10 - RWF-815-10BK (for the inlet ports of the catch can)
1 x Raceworks AN-12 to AN-10 reducer (tbc if male to male (rwf-815-12-10bk) or female to male (rwf-950-12-10bk)) (for the outlet port of the catch can)
1 x Franklin Engineering 10AN Rocker Cover Fittings for RB25 (2 in the pack with an installer)
Aim is to remove the two existing Rocker Cover barbs using some pliers (you tube has a guide on this) replace them with the new AN-10 adapters from Franklin engineering.
Will then add the two Raceworks 90 degree Push Lok fittings to the rocker cover and then connect those to the two inlet ports on the catch can. Will then run the 90 degree push lok fitting on the outlet port and run that to the stock fitting on the PCV.
Will post my experiences and pictures once complete
Toby-
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Hey, is the aluminum oil catch can still available? ill take it
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All good thanks heaps for the offers guys! I needed to get tyres anyway and got some te37 replicas in black super cheap (18*8.5+35) fitted sweet.
Also fitted the stock exhaust, cleaned the car up, while it was on the hoist ensured the underbody was perfect (super clean already but just made sure). Went over the pits with no issues at all. It does have an aftermarket bov, and they were concerned about if it plumbed back, which it did. So all was good!
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Thanks ggub! gives me some optimism!
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Hey All!
Proud new owner of a 2000 R34 GTT. Need to get the rego transferred (it is ACT registered at the moment) and found out it needs to go through Hume for the inspection due to it being an import (erghh)
Car actually looks really stock, am putting the stock exhaust back on, will run it on 98 and not e85 and trying to find some rims and tyres that are not to wide (If anyone has stockies I could borrow for Monday, it would save me!!! Happy to pay for troubles).
It has an aftermarket ECU and Turbo and just wondering if anyone has had any experiences with the pits in ACT and how tough they are. Car looks super clean and stock, even under the bonnet there is nothing standing out. It does have a FMIC, but its a full return so there was no cutting involved. Also has coilovers….
Appreciate any insights or hints and tips!
Thanks guys!Toby
I didn't think about the rear seat. 
R34 Track/Street Car
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted · Edited by Tobz
Blitz ER34 Oil cooler came today, quality is amazing!!