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Tobz

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Posts posted by Tobz

    R34 Track/Street Car

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    I pulled the filter and it seemed pretty clean, I'm going to give it a good clean later on (have an inline micron filter with the stainless steel mesh).

    However I don't believe it is the filter as my FPR is on the return line and I get my fuel pressure from that and it didn't drop pressure... Was holding pressure really well.... So I'm hoping it's the injectors, as that's a super simple fix. They are currently off being cleaned and flow tested

    R34 Track/Street Car

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    So car was running fine and then I went on a holiday before all of Australia locked down. The car sat all alone doing nothing for about 2 months.

    Got home and took it for a spin and it started leaning out. Looks like the injectors may have clogged up while it was sitting as it was still on E85 and didn't have any fuel stabiliser in it before I went away. I assume this is a thing?

    Anyway got the injectors out today and will be sending them to get cleaned and flow tested.

    Not sure why but have also decided to swap to a Plazmaman front facing plenum. I know it doesn't really do anything, but I wanted to clean up the engine bay. Also the way my car was converted to DBW it meant I couldn't run a strut brace anymore, and I know it doesn't do a lot but I do miss it.

    Put the order in today and looks like it's a 7 week wait! But I think it will clean up a lot and just make it easier if I need to do any troubleshooting trackside.

    Super annoying that there was an issue with the car, but at least it happened when I can't use the car anyway!

    R34 Track/Street Car

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted · Edited by Tobz

    Went to the dyno day today. Can now compare all dyno runs I know of.

    First is from the previous owner when it was first tuned in Feb 2017 from DVS (287kw)

    Second is from August 2019 (271kw) when I did a dyno day in Canberra at Autotech Services

    Final one is from the SAU dyno day today (305kw) at JEM

    I don't believe there was any changes to car between 2017 to 2019 other than an owner change :)

    Changes from 2019 to now are basically Haltech, external gate and a proper intercooler. It is also now running a bit richer now (afr went from! low to mid 12's from 2019 to low to mid 11's now). This is due to the car doing a lot of track work now.

    It isn't making as much power as I wanted, but I actually think this is fine, it comes on hard but stays super flat to redline. Very happy

     

     

     

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    • Like 5

    Eastern Creek circuit setup for R34 street car

    in New South Wales

    Posted

    So many variables! It would be impossible to say for a few.

    If you can get a laser thermometer they are only $20 on eBay. Every tyre has its own sweet spot for pressure. What you want to check is the following for each tyre asap once you get off the track (a tyre pyrometer would be better but costs $$$)

    Inside temp

    Centre Temp

    Outside temp

     

    You want the temps to be even across the whole the tyre. If the centre is lower than the inside and outside you need to add more pressure. If the inside and outside is higher then the centre , then you need to remove psi

    If the outside is higher than the middle and inside you need more camber

    If the inside is higher than the middle and outside you need to remove camber.

    Suspension wise I run

    Front camber -2.5
    Caster 9 degrees
    Tow 1.5mm out
    350mm height 
     
    Rear camber -1
    Toe 0
    340mm ride height.
     
    Usually I'll start with both front and rear shocks on the centre settings. Get the tyre pressures right first and then adjust as following:
    Try and work out based on feel if there is too much roll in the car, you need the car to roll side to side to generate grip, but also you need it to be nimble and also not roll so much that you run out of suspension. Hard to explain how you feel this
     
    after this I will then adjust per the following:
    Too much understeer (stiffen the rear or soften the front)
    Too much oversteer (soften the rear and stiffen the front)
     
    If the suspension is not getting to where you need then you can:
    Too much understeer (remove psi in front of add psi in rear tyres)
    Too much oversteer (add psi in front and remove psi in rear)
     
    Check your pressures after every run. This is critical! When you buy the tyres the dealer should be able to give you an idea on estimated warm pressures for your tyres. Remember these pressure are measured warm not cold!! Adjust from this base.
     
    For smsp I usually run the front a little stuff so it will understeer a little at the limit, gives me confidence for T1 knowing the rear won't snap

    Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    On 11/04/2021 at 1:52 PM, Kinkstaah said:

    Except a smaller turbo often has more area under the curve. Realistically if you're serious you would evaluate the RPM ranges you use most commonly and do some math to determine where you'd get the most gains.

    DBW and TC can make for better lap times for better auto-management of torque so the driver can have an easier time getting the thing out of a corner. A bigger, laggier turbo making less power in this scenario (if its noticeably less than the amount that TC and DBW combined with the smaller turbo can provide) would be slower.

    But yeah if you're at this point you probably have telemetry you can lean on on to see what RPM's you're actually in, when you're in them, and how much average power you're making when you want it.

    I won't say bigger is better but generally if you're under 5000rpm you may be in the wrong gear.

    it gets more complicated than that as you also adjust what gear you are in based on the power available in rev band....  for example in my old RX8 i was always in lowest gear i could find so i was revving the thing out as much as i could as all the power is up top, now im using a few gears higher as all my torque is in the middle of the rev range. I guess theres a point that you will also adjust your driving based on the powerband...

    • Like 1

    R34 Track/Street Car

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted · Edited by Tobz

    Finally got the car back together and took itmfor a drive. 

    Changes to the intercooler and external wastegate have changed everything.

    Before I was told the turbo was being restricted either by the intercooler or exhaust.

    Having swapped out the return flow and also going to an external gate has released the restriction

    It needs to be retuned as the power is defo coming on early, but also the ebc cannot control boost. Did a slow pull in second and the boost crept past 20psi which should be the limit.  It's a Mac valve and a 14psi spring on the gate. Looks like it may need some setup done on it

    AFRs all looked good.

    Trying to organise a time to get retuned now. But overall so far I'm very happy

    Also added a 5inch body venom cat, installed some Sparco r100 seats and got the harness installed! 

     

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    I have no idea what to do

    in Newbie Introductions

    Posted

    53 minutes ago, djr81 said:

    Point shouldn't need to be made that the engineering in an AU is massively better than that in an F40, but there it is.  So too the build quality.  Still, pointing out the obvious may help someone out.

    its pretty obvious, the paint on the F40 was so thin that you could see the carbon fibre weave.... They didnt even paint the car properly.

    On top of that instead of making the car out of good strong steel, they used fibre cloth and glue..... who does that?

    And to access the engine, you dont just pull a lever and it opens like a well engineered AU, you need to unlock two latches, get a mate to help you lift it and then use a flimsy rod to keep it open, no gas struts!

    Then they were so lazy developing the engine that it needs a service every 5000kms! and its only a 2.9l not a nice 4l straight six or a  5l windsor V8...  its so small and inferior!

     I have no idea why the F40 costs so much when an AU is obviously the superior machine

    • Like 1

    Oil feed line routing

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    Hey mate, I'm pretty sure I used the factory water line for the one your describing. 

    The water line I made up goes from the turbo to the block and you can see it in the above photos.

    Let me know if there was something in particular you need more details on.

    Actually all makes sense now, I'm making up the same water line for mine and keeping the return as the stock item. 

    For some reason I was picturing it wrong in my head and it all didn't make sense till I went back under the car just then :)

    Oil feed line routing

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by Tobz

     

    On 03/07/2020 at 10:02 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

    especially as I made up that water line =/

    Your new water return line, did you connect it to behind the head or did you cut the hard pipe and attach it there?

    EDIT:  Hang on, how does the water line to your turbo work? 

    R34 GTT - big brake kit for track days

    in Motorsport

    Posted · Edited by Tobz

    5 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

     

    Interesting you say that, did you run with just the fronts at any point? Ive been a bit concerned about the way it will affect the bias. Wanted to wait and see before committing to the rears or an external bias controller, but its interesting you dont feel the rears are worth it

    Way I see it the front does 75% of the braking, the rears are just there for the ride... As such there's not much benefit upgrading as the original rears don't get all that hot either. For me I think it's mostly cosmetic. Alpha omega reckon the bias shouldn't be effected with either the stock or Brembo rears.

    saying that with the massive 350mm rear rotors the brakes are almost stone cold after a track session, they either do very little braking or the heat is dissipating really well from the increase in rotor size. I'm just not sold they are worth the additional $$$

    Also never tried just the brembos on the front. But I'm sure others have :)

     

    R34 GTT - big brake kit for track days

    in Motorsport

    Posted

    I do highly recommend the attakd 2 price rotors at $500 though. Defo worth the extra dollars.

    There's some slotted and dimpled on eBay for 288 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Slotted-Pair-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-for-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evo-X-2-0L-Turbo-/154144900775?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

    But for only slightly more, get the attakd

    Although not available atm usually there's a few sets of calipers on eBay for around 500

    I run Feredo DS Uno pads, but there are lots of options if you aren't doing a lot of track work

    I also did the Brembo rears, not worth it, but I wanted it to look consistent front to rear

     

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