Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Dil-Dog last won the day on January 27

Dil-Dog had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

16 Good

1 Follower

About Dil-Dog

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DE

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    Forged R34 GT + T
  • Real Name

Recent Profile Visitors

807 profile views
  1. Yeah man, good luck and take pics and get back to us
  2. This actually is a really interesting post... to start, a small amount of Piston slap Is actual a normal occurrence in forged builds under certain conditions believe it or not. 1# Forged pistons are honed/bored at slightly higher than stock piston to wall clearance over factory cast pistons 2# Forged pistons and cast pistons dont have the same expansion under heat, forged pistons expand more hence and take more time too and thats why they need a greater tolerance. Sometimes depending on the application... forged pistons when in the bores can even rock back and forth to the point where they go “click clack” when moving them by hand. Crazy to think about but look it up on youtube from HPacademy. #3 Forged pistons usually have a central gudgeon pin location, where as cast/stock are made with an offset pin location on all OEM pistons, which helps reduce noise. Now, from my experience with my forged rb25neo, i do have some very slight slap on cold start but within 5-10 mins it is 100% Gone. This is considered normal with forged motors In your case with ur engine warmed up still slapping loud like hell and with ur compression readings, it may be that ur clearances are completely off and this is 100% the machinist/engine builders fault for not doing it or checking it correctly. Sorry to hear about it but keep us updated, very curious to know what happened or if its something else entirely.
  3. Yes thats what i used, its been working no problems now for 9ish months now. You can get new from amazon for about 90-100usd. Its legit pull out the old one and plug in the new walbro one, no headache or wiring. All you would have to do is cut A small piece off the bracket so it can fit in
  4. The wiring harness for the injectors are the same between de neo and det neo, fuel Rail is the same i believe, when i turbo swapped my r34 all i did was simply change the fuel pump. The walbro fits and plugs in directly
  5. Ur small box from the gt is push type the big box from the Gtt is pull type, i used spec 6puck stage 3 and still very happy
  6. I absolutely LOVE my garret GTX3071r Duall ball bearing. great response and sick sound. i got it for something around 1600 USD from https://www.atpturbo.com/ .
  7. I seen apparently new ones on NENGUN.com which is based in japan. If not Rawbrokerage.com also has used ones for time to time. if not why dont check with your local nissan dealership.
  8. u are better off cleaning and zinc coating the ones ur engine came with
  9. I used this and was pleased... All genuine https://frsport.com/nissan-10101-aa525-genuine-oem-complete-engine-gasket-kit-rb25det-neo
  10. lol i know its sounds funny but could not burnt and my skyline came with that cheese just like yours on that same exact connector, i believe its dielectric grease and it came from factory with it or something. I tried to clean mine with Electronic spray cleaner but it didnt come out too good. i ended up wiping it down and putting my own dielectric grease afterwords. I could be wrong thou bro,... it may be burnt in your case but mine looked similar and wasnt burnt
  11. Mount the catch can in your asshole for all i care fam
  12. I understand but its not a big deal at all... its just a street/weekend drifter . I hate the look when the tubes/hose goes to the front or over the cam covers.
  13. This is my personal set up... its a non return vented to atmosphere set up, which is the cleanest possible way for your engine. All of the returns and holes have been blocked. U can get -10an press fittings from Raw Brokerage and the elbows and such anywhere like amazon.
  14. Front suspension on GT and GTT are the same fittings but the rears are different. GTT has a lower fork fitting and GT has a lower eye fitting where it goes to the hubs. R34 GT fitment is same as an R33 GTST so I fitted a set of secondhand Apexi from an R33. Not sure about spring rates etc. but if you go for some adjustable coilovers then it doesn't matter and R33 should be cheaper anyway. For brakes the mounting hole spacing on all of them is the same (including Z32, S14, S15 etc.). Some (e.g. R33 and R32) have 12mm threads on the front but R34s have 14mm holes. So to fit my R32 GTR calipers I used about 1cm of stainless steel sleeve (outer diameter 14mm, inner diameter 12mm, 1mm thick wall) in each bolt hole on the mounting bracket. The original 12mm bolt from the R32 goes through the sleeve in the R34 mounting bracket and into the caliper. If you have R34 GTT calipers the threads will be 14mm already so no need for the sleeve. I'm pretty sure you need the matching disks as they are a bit bigger. I think the caliper mounting points are a bit longer to allow for this - but you'd better check on that. All of my stuff, calipers and disks were off a 32 GTR. Rear calipers are all fitted straight up with the same bolts - no problems. Some helpful info here about compatibility between models ... https://web.archive.org/web/20150912120446/http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm This info was part of a private message from @DatsunBanana ... very good guy to talk to about NA r34’s and helped me alot
  • Create New...