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About Dil-Dog

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  • Car(s)
    Forged R34 GT + T
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  1. friends and family... i am A class bone head. Upon further inspection, at the back of the wastegate there are TWO!!! Vacuum ports on the bottom on eachside so you can route a line to closet side when Its installed. I did not see it and Left it open and they even provided a blank/cap to close off the port that you are not using. An important lesson was learned today, do not smoke and then go playing mechanic on your car. It could of easily blown shit up when i made 20 psi
  2. Shit... i hope not it is brand spanking new but what u are saying makes sense, i will get back to guys tmm on the progress, i know this sounds like a silly question but what is the best way to add a lil nipple/barb to the aluminium intake piping right after the turbo?
  3. Damn bro, thanks for the info.... i guess i have to tap the intercooler piping right after the turbo because the compressor housing did not come with a nipple/barb. But u dont think that if the boost gauge reads 18psi from the manifold, the wastegate wwouldnt read the same and then open? I believe testing the wastegate with a compressor is the best bet... thanks
  4. Hello and once again i cant get things right😂... i have a freddy greddy intake and shown below is my vacuum diagram. I plumbed the vac line from precision turbo 38mm wastegate directly from the intake manifold with no “T‘s” or any sharp bends or obstructions with 2 zip ties on each end. Its about 3 feet long and its plumbed exactly to the instructions diagram A. shown in the picture i did it this way As i do not have any electronic or manual boost control as its started life as a de/na rb25. i went for a drive and made 18 psi and the gate did not open... i put a “red” 6 psi spring... what the heck is going on?
  5. Just an update for future readers and any one else who may be able to learn from this or wanna do the same.... it works, i put manely h beams and cp turbo neo pistons with acl bearings with no problems. The head cc/size is the same. It is possible to forge a de with det parts
  6. Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem 🤔
  7. Yeah fam you aint got a problem with wiring harness... however check pages 5&6 to see the actuall differences in the pin outs and how it can be possible to clear your check engine light. If its a pink labeled NEO afm then its no difference between the turbo and non turbo... they share the same part number. Maybe you should turn down your boost for a bit, running lean is very bad i’ve done my de+t neo, so if you need any other help or advice holla at yuh boi
  8. @NZ-GTT @Duncan @Dose Pipe Sutututu @Ben C34 @KiwiRS4T Hey guys, so i have not pulled the trigger on an aftermarket brand as yet... but i am getting an Quote from the local Nissan Dealership for the complete Front and Rear caliper, discs, and pads set for a r34 GTT. lets see what they say. So i was thinking right... with all this talk about matching and compatibility between the S and R chassis.... were we talking about front and back all along or just the fronts? my question is if the rears are same and interchangeable as well? if no, would i can use only specific R34 rears or other skyline rears?
  9. Yo johnny whats up bro, yeah i read it and its very well writen how ever i was looking for somthing brand spanking new... also i have a one question. I confirmed with another de+t brethren that we do have 14mm bolts on our n/a 34’s but i was wondering In that case if i can buy a BBK for a 350z and if it will just bolt on directly smooth no problems? Also.... say if i buy a bbk for a s15, s14, or r32 r33 and it comes with the 12mm hole, i would have to drill out the caliper to match the 14mm hole on the spindel? Right? And thats it... no trouble? @Ben C34 @Dose Pipe Sutututu @Duncan @KiwiRS4T
  10. Thanks fam... legit wouldnt be here if it wasnt for all the great people in this forum answering my billions of noob questions. You actually helped me many times mr @Ben C34
  11. 1998 r34 gt N/A Cp neo pistons 9.5/1 Manley hbeam rods acl bearings arp head bolts, flywheel bolts, clutch cover n1 oil pump new oem water pump splitfire coils freddygreddy intake spec stage 3 6puck clutch walbro 255 fuel pump detchwerks 370cc oe replacment injectors cx racing 32 inch intercooler factory gtt ecu det OEM manifold with welded on 38mm precision turbo wastgate duall ball bearing gtx3071r freddy greddy blow off valve Ching Chong non return catch can gtt to gtr body kit from Showoff imports oem valve train and it comes from factory with the rb20det (small box) 5 speed trans Started life as de Block with de head so its a plus T and i also die grinded intake ports to the det size. Still unfortunatly de NA breaks
  12. Its not a track car but its a fully forged and built rb25neo with a garret gtx3071r around 14 psi street car that i also drift on the weekends with and the breaks are very old and desperately needs replacing. Thanks for the advice thus far
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