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Dil-Dog

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Dil-Dog last won the day on January 27

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About Dil-Dog

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DE

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    Forged R34 GT + T
  • Real Name
    Dylan

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  1. https://youtu.be/EjdbmLYIhjo https://youtu.be/ir3h_yMqf04 also check out “garage13” rb rebuild. i would suggest upon buying your r33.... u sit down and make a build plan cause if you want somthing reliability, well sorry bro , YOU are gunna have to make it reliable. its 25 years old and abused. You can rebuild everything your self and you might be surprised at how cheap it is to do, but be prepared as it will be a very long and hard journey. Patience, research, and a workshop manual is key.
  2. Take off ur filter ... legit 2 hose clamps, then go to ur local auto part store and get a similar nissan family one. Should take you 15 mins tops with a screwdriver and pliers
  3. I live in the caribbean with 24-7 boiling hot weather, my mishimoto rad with stock clutch fan works great.
  4. Oh wow... thanks. never knew and thats good to know though. I guess nissan only hates us neo’s boyz 😂
  5. Damn bro..... i only have experience with neo’s. That must be a series 1/2 specific thing then. My 25de neo and my friends 25de neo is a blank in that location. good looking out though. @Rusty Nuts
  6. Where did u post the turbo review? No lie i am very skepitcal about max speeding rods as a whole. The company seems very Chinese. It legit doesnt make sense with their pricing, i would never trust em
  7. This is your best bet i can think of...That red circle is your turbo oil drain. if in that area on your block is a blank/does not exists then it is 100% a de block. If this spot on your block has any kind plug of bolt or block off that goes into a hole, then its a turbo block that plugged up.
  8. Okay i know exactly how u can tell... but is the engine in or out of the car?
  9. Yeah i am trying to understand... So you wanna know if its a 1. De+t 2. DET turned de 3. A true Factory DE/Na once you tell us exactly what you wanna know, we can tell you what to look for.
  10. ^ big facts @NZ-GTT in that condition i would pay 12- 13K usd
  11. Something to also consider when you are setting your ignition timing is that according to the Workshop manual, you MUST also have your idle all the way down to 600rpms. believe it or not this is actually something that alot of people overlook. the average RB is around 800-900 rpm on idle. You just gotta be slow and easy with your idle air screw and you will get it
  12. The best way to answer these questions would be to contact Plazaman Directly either phone or email and that way you can know for sure what everything you will need prior to get this working... for example you have -10 an fitting on the coolant feed, i have no clue what that would be for.You should defiantly also for sure check if your stock throttle body can bolt on or if you would need an adapter (you usually do with other inatke manifolds). Check to see if they supply the nipples and/or block offs for the ports on the manifold for your vac lines. It would also be nice to get a new inatke manifold Gasket. The Greddy/freddy intake manifolds are well documented for what you will need and how to plumb the vac lines for idle air controller and what not... you dont wanna have it in your hands and try to install it and then realize your missing a bunch of stuff so shoot them an email or call for some instructions
  13. "Front suspension on GT and GTT are the same fittings but the rears are different. GTT has a lower fork fitting and GT has a lower eye fitting where it goes to the hubs. R34 GT fitment is same as an R33 GTST so I fitted a set of secondhand Apexi from an R33. Not sure about spring rates etc. but if you go for some adjustable coilovers then it doesn't matter and R33 should be cheaper anyway. For brakes the mounting hole spacing on all of them is the same (including Z32, S14, S15 etc.). Some (e.g. R33 and R32) have 12mm threads on the front but R34s have 14mm holes. So to fit my R32 GTR calipers I used about 1cm of stainless steel sleeve (outer diameter 14mm, inner diameter 12mm, 1mm thick wall) in each bolt hole on the mounting bracket. The original 12mm bolt from the R32 goes through the sleeve in the R34 mounting bracket and into the caliper. If you have R34 GTT calipers the threads will be 14mm already so no need for the sleeve. I'm pretty sure you need the matching disks as they are a bit bigger. I think the caliper mounting points are a bit longer to allow for this - but you'd better check on that. All of my stuff, calipers and disks were off a 32 GTR. Rear calipers are all fitted straight up with the same bolts - no problems. Some helpful info here about compatibility between models ... https://web.archive.org/web/20150912120446/http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm Getting some braided brake lines made up is the easiest way to connect them. I used a banjo at the caliper end on the front and if I remember right I may have had to cut the bolt a bit shorter if it didn't fit. I just had to keep it clean of paint and use a nice new copper washer where the banjo contacts the caliper." - Quaoted from Phil. @DatsunBanana
  14. 100% the vent to atmosphere BOV... I have the exact same issue, the only way around this is what @thebe said.
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