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Dil-Dog

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Everything posted by Dil-Dog

  1. I used this and was pleased... All genuine https://frsport.com/nissan-10101-aa525-genuine-oem-complete-engine-gasket-kit-rb25det-neo
  2. lol i know its sounds funny but could not burnt and my skyline came with that cheese just like yours on that same exact connector, i believe its dielectric grease and it came from factory with it or something. I tried to clean mine with Electronic spray cleaner but it didnt come out too good. i ended up wiping it down and putting my own dielectric grease afterwords. I could be wrong thou bro,... it may be burnt in your case but mine looked similar and wasnt burnt
  3. Mount the catch can in your asshole for all i care fam
  4. I understand but its not a big deal at all... its just a street/weekend drifter . I hate the look when the tubes/hose goes to the front or over the cam covers.
  5. This is my personal set up... its a non return vented to atmosphere set up, which is the cleanest possible way for your engine. All of the returns and holes have been blocked. U can get -10an press fittings from Raw Brokerage and the elbows and such anywhere like amazon.
  6. Front suspension on GT and GTT are the same fittings but the rears are different. GTT has a lower fork fitting and GT has a lower eye fitting where it goes to the hubs. R34 GT fitment is same as an R33 GTST so I fitted a set of secondhand Apexi from an R33. Not sure about spring rates etc. but if you go for some adjustable coilovers then it doesn't matter and R33 should be cheaper anyway. For brakes the mounting hole spacing on all of them is the same (including Z32, S14, S15 etc.). Some (e.g. R33 and R32) have 12mm threads on the front but R34s have 14mm holes. So to fit my R32 GTR calipers I used about 1cm of stainless steel sleeve (outer diameter 14mm, inner diameter 12mm, 1mm thick wall) in each bolt hole on the mounting bracket. The original 12mm bolt from the R32 goes through the sleeve in the R34 mounting bracket and into the caliper. If you have R34 GTT calipers the threads will be 14mm already so no need for the sleeve. I'm pretty sure you need the matching disks as they are a bit bigger. I think the caliper mounting points are a bit longer to allow for this - but you'd better check on that. All of my stuff, calipers and disks were off a 32 GTR. Rear calipers are all fitted straight up with the same bolts - no problems. Some helpful info here about compatibility between models ... https://web.archive.org/web/20150912120446/http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm This info was part of a private message from @DatsunBanana ... very good guy to talk to about NA r34’s and helped me alot
  7. https://youtu.be/EjdbmLYIhjo https://youtu.be/ir3h_yMqf04 also check out “garage13” rb rebuild. i would suggest upon buying your r33.... u sit down and make a build plan cause if you want somthing reliability, well sorry bro , YOU are gunna have to make it reliable. its 25 years old and abused. You can rebuild everything your self and you might be surprised at how cheap it is to do, but be prepared as it will be a very long and hard journey. Patience, research, and a workshop manual is key.
  8. Take off ur filter ... legit 2 hose clamps, then go to ur local auto part store and get a similar nissan family one. Should take you 15 mins tops with a screwdriver and pliers
  9. I live in the caribbean with 24-7 boiling hot weather, my mishimoto rad with stock clutch fan works great.
  10. Oh wow... thanks. never knew and thats good to know though. I guess nissan only hates us neo’s boyz 😂
  11. Damn bro..... i only have experience with neo’s. That must be a series 1/2 specific thing then. My 25de neo and my friends 25de neo is a blank in that location. good looking out though. @Rusty Nuts
  12. Where did u post the turbo review? No lie i am very skepitcal about max speeding rods as a whole. The company seems very Chinese. It legit doesnt make sense with their pricing, i would never trust em
  13. This is your best bet i can think of...That red circle is your turbo oil drain. if in that area on your block is a blank/does not exists then it is 100% a de block. If this spot on your block has any kind plug of bolt or block off that goes into a hole, then its a turbo block that plugged up.
  14. Okay i know exactly how u can tell... but is the engine in or out of the car?
  15. Yeah i am trying to understand... So you wanna know if its a 1. De+t 2. DET turned de 3. A true Factory DE/Na once you tell us exactly what you wanna know, we can tell you what to look for.
  16. ^ big facts @NZ-GTT in that condition i would pay 12- 13K usd
  17. Something to also consider when you are setting your ignition timing is that according to the Workshop manual, you MUST also have your idle all the way down to 600rpms. believe it or not this is actually something that alot of people overlook. the average RB is around 800-900 rpm on idle. You just gotta be slow and easy with your idle air screw and you will get it
  18. The best way to answer these questions would be to contact Plazaman Directly either phone or email and that way you can know for sure what everything you will need prior to get this working... for example you have -10 an fitting on the coolant feed, i have no clue what that would be for.You should defiantly also for sure check if your stock throttle body can bolt on or if you would need an adapter (you usually do with other inatke manifolds). Check to see if they supply the nipples and/or block offs for the ports on the manifold for your vac lines. It would also be nice to get a new inatke manifold Gasket. The Greddy/freddy intake manifolds are well documented for what you will need and how to plumb the vac lines for idle air controller and what not... you dont wanna have it in your hands and try to install it and then realize your missing a bunch of stuff so shoot them an email or call for some instructions
  19. "Front suspension on GT and GTT are the same fittings but the rears are different. GTT has a lower fork fitting and GT has a lower eye fitting where it goes to the hubs. R34 GT fitment is same as an R33 GTST so I fitted a set of secondhand Apexi from an R33. Not sure about spring rates etc. but if you go for some adjustable coilovers then it doesn't matter and R33 should be cheaper anyway. For brakes the mounting hole spacing on all of them is the same (including Z32, S14, S15 etc.). Some (e.g. R33 and R32) have 12mm threads on the front but R34s have 14mm holes. So to fit my R32 GTR calipers I used about 1cm of stainless steel sleeve (outer diameter 14mm, inner diameter 12mm, 1mm thick wall) in each bolt hole on the mounting bracket. The original 12mm bolt from the R32 goes through the sleeve in the R34 mounting bracket and into the caliper. If you have R34 GTT calipers the threads will be 14mm already so no need for the sleeve. I'm pretty sure you need the matching disks as they are a bit bigger. I think the caliper mounting points are a bit longer to allow for this - but you'd better check on that. All of my stuff, calipers and disks were off a 32 GTR. Rear calipers are all fitted straight up with the same bolts - no problems. Some helpful info here about compatibility between models ... https://web.archive.org/web/20150912120446/http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm Getting some braided brake lines made up is the easiest way to connect them. I used a banjo at the caliper end on the front and if I remember right I may have had to cut the bolt a bit shorter if it didn't fit. I just had to keep it clean of paint and use a nice new copper washer where the banjo contacts the caliper." - Quaoted from Phil. @DatsunBanana
  20. 100% the vent to atmosphere BOV... I have the exact same issue, the only way around this is what @thebe said.
  21. I enjoy my Mishimotor Radiator with the stock Clutch fan and GKtech fan blade... but what ever you decide to do though, do NOT buy the mishimoto electric fan. its garbage and is better off meant to cool a computer or somthing. If you have the engine out the car and in pieces and offcourse... the coin to do so, My best recommendation would be to get a Nitto extended crank collar and a high end Harmonic Balancer. You will eliminate the Achilles heel of the RB's and sleep better at night knowing that you wont have shit harmonics at high rpm and broken oil pump gears that literally go hand in hand with each other.
  22. There is NO "turbo kit" available for the RB25 to make it naturally aspirated to turbocharged. it does not exists. However, This is one of the best guide on the internet for turbo-ing a Naturally aspirated RB25: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466795-doing-a-t-conversion-on-an-unopened-rb25de-neo-r34-gt/
  23. you should also consider the list i wrote for you on your previous post. a better working AFM on a clapped out 25 year old engine will only help your situation not fix it
  24. Dont forget that even if u get a new ECU or "Reset" the ecu you have... your engine is 20+ years old. I would recommend doing some good general maintenance that will defiantly help your car to run right and healthier , cause to me it sounds like you may have a host of small things that all together , make your car run like shit You should start with: - New Spark Plugs - New Coil Packs (strongly recommend) - New Fuel filter (you can easily get one over the counter for a Patrol, Xtrail, Etc.) - Replace or atleast clean your Injectors. - New O2 sensor (this can improve Fuel Efficiency) - Clean your Idle Air Controller (you can check out youtube) - A dying or maxed out AFM can give you sudden and instant power/engine cuts when driving - Check your Vac lines (especially the ones that run to your IAC) - Boost leak Test - If you're running a Fuel Pressure Reg, make sure you run the right PSI - Buy a wide band gauge so you can see whats up when your problems occur Once you've done these things you should the also take a look and re-set your Ignition Timing (consult with Service Manual and not forums or mates) While your at it with the ignition timing and service manual you can take a look at your TPS and re-set it, this can also affect your idle and how your car runs
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