Dil-Dog

Thanks bro!

its a series 3 bro not a neo, but still... thank you for the reply

Hey Guys thank you for the replies, very much appreciated

So my mate with an r33 Coupe RWD Gtst rb25det series 2 has had cracked ringlands and pulled the motor. Instead of rebuilding his motor he bought my AWD Series 3 rb25det block and head. (I Have no clue what it came out from but its a low mile virgin in excellent condition) Now when putting everything back together and "converting" it to rwd he realized that his series 2 CAS will not mate to cam gear inside the head. SO.... what do we do: 1) Wire the series 3 NEO/plastic CAS to his OEM series 2 harness? (can this even work?) 2) Use his original head? (beat the F*ck up from years of red line and drifting so he doesnt really wanna do it) open to any suggestions or advice. we are kinda stuck on this and need some help. He is using the Apexi Power FC (idk if this worth mentioning)

So this came off of the passenger foot well, up by the firewall and its from r33 gtst. It had a rattle in it and so it has been opened up to check what wrong. We dont know what it is and we cant test out anything as the motor is out and being rebuilt. Everything was “fine” from the last drive with the car being pullin the motor

lol yes that a huge rip off, many reputable companies can make you high quality harnesses for half the price. As mentioned above by BK... wiring specialties is the go to. i am using them on my 2jz-350z swap and i can tell you first hand that they are very good, reasonably priced, and the sky is the limit with them in terms of customization

Hey if you need any help or advice along the way , PM me.. i will be glad to help. I turbo'd my N/A r34

Also...this is the crank bearing for a 2jz

Gentlemen... thanks for the reply, i attached some screen shots of the same video that u guys cant see. They are not as bad as it may seem as the flash light is quite bright but non the less, tell me what yall think. They came from one bearing squeezing the next and cant be felt be my nail

I bought brand new bearings from ACL and the box was opened was kinda squished and 2 bearings were squeezed together and as a result ,creates this.☠️ I gathered some opinions from other groups and forums but sau is by far the best and i trust you guys the most. Soo whats my verdict. .... F*cked or Not? I cant feel them. FullSizeRender.mov

This is the first time I ever seen a post about this. I expirenced this before and was super confused because everyone and everywhere claims that all the blocks are the same between s1,s2,s3, Neo turbo and non-turbo.... but this claim is not true and your pics prove it, especially on the deck. (never seen that Before) But here are MY personal findings of other differences... When building my r34. I had a series 3 rb25DET laying around and thought it would be better to throw it in the R34 instead of turbo'ing the DE N/A Neo but when I pulled the engine out I soon realized that the lower 2 holes on the block by the bellhousing ( as seen in your pic) does not exist on the turbo s3 block and What this meant for me was that the 5-speed Small box or rb20det/rb25de gearbox that the car came with will NOT bolt up to the turbo block completely and in fact will be missing four bolts from the trans to the block. these additional four bolt holes on the n/a neo block would hold 2 long brackets that connected to block to the trans as seen below here in the pic.

Yeeaaahhhh my boy! Glad to see we are on the same vibe hardsteppa

EDIT: look i know that you "CAN" do it your self and there is a few videos on youtube who show them selves at home with a drill and what not but i want to know if what they are doing is wrong and if they are just a set of bone heads. so yeah thats my question... lol ?

Hello, i am building a 350z drift missile with a florida imported Aristo 2jz GTE VVTI My partner and I are trying to make it as "budget friendly" as possible while still retaining reliability and decent performance. We have a build list of new parts such as top mount manifold, turbo, gaskets, studs, oil pump, water pump etc etc. So here is my question.... while the engine is out, we were planning on doing all the rotating assembly bearings and we were wondering If it would make sense that we pull the pistons out, clean it up, then replace all rings, then finally hone the cylinder bores with a honing pad/stone ourselves. I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression but if the engine is out... wouldnt it be a good idea? Is this too risky? i have seen a few people who have just got a hone and new rings and reused the stock rods and pistons but i would like to know if honing is something you can do your self and still achieve good results.

Thanks bro, appreciate it... lets hope i dont NEED to use this info soon

Sorry but can you explain a lil more? my car is the 1998 ER34 25GT COUPE non hicas... so what you are saying is that i would need the front half of the r33 gtst's drive shaft as the spline that goes into the gearbox is different? Would this also mean that i may need to shorten or modify the overall length? Thanks for the reply by the way

Lol yeah thats what i am trying to firgure out.... is it a bolt for bolt swap or do i have to modify drive shaft. I wonder if the the splines are the same?

I got a pretty good question for y'all that i cant find an answer to no where..... In the event that my r34's 25De+T small box may one day give up with the abuse of being boosted and drifted, What would be involved with changing the small box to the R33 big box? My Main concern would be driveshaft compatibility, i do not think that my current stock drive shaft will work. Can anyone please shed some light on this, anyone ever done this in here? Any ideas or advice is welcomed. Thank you.

CD009 Rev 2 with external slave cylinder has been proven and documented to take 1000HP... keep in mind that this particular box is alot less common over the many many many 350/g35 boxes over the 8 years that were made different with alot of slight revisions.

Weld it and do skids

This is from the states, very good price and i have been using this on my r34 for 8 months now. https://frsport.com/circuit-sports-alt-0v017-al-oe-alternator-nissan-r34-rb25det-neo-r34-rb26dett

so why would he need a thicker oil as the car ages? just tryna learn

Hello everyone, Please dont murder me but Can you run a water meth kit on a stock r34 GTT ECU? I have been considering doing this for the reduced chances of detonation, lower intake temps, and the cleaner combustion. Some one told me that you need to tune ecu's fuel mapping in order to gain the power benefits but he also mentioned that even with out a tune its still beneficial to run and cant do no harm. Anyone have a similar experience? is it safe?

lol why? like for real

Sick bro, looks great... glad you go through