Selli160

Rb25 Bearing Clearance Recommendation Currently Building a rb25 NEO for my stagea. At the stage of checking my clearances but have a few questions for some more experienced engine builders or hobbyists than myself. My over all goal for the build is a RELIABLE 600-700HP within a street application. Key word is reliable here I don’t plan on siting on limiter every time it starts im building it as a street car and plan to treat it as such, but obviously I still want to have my fun with it occasionally. Now the FSM states clearances between 0.02-0.04 mm (Big End) 0.028-0.46 (Mains). This is all well and good but as you can imagine Nissan chose these numbers based on a stock application needs. So I feel its fair to assume that using aftermarket race bearings, double the HP and a slightly higher rev limit would require a slightly different clearance. I’ve done some looking online surprisingly hard to find much info on recommended clearances. Even when I did they contradicted each other so here I am. If anyone has any advice, recommendations, stories and or numbers I would greatly appreciate it.

Cool guessing I’m not going to notice any major performance changes with just the exhaust. Would I be correct assuming that?

Just recently i snapped my exhaust cam on my Rb. While looking for a replacement I found a great deal on a tomei poncam exhaust cam for about $100. Just wondering now if it’s even possible to run just an exhaust cam. Any negatives or positives or potential issues? If so I’ll probably end up re selling it for more. Motor is going to be basically stock so don’t really expect to get much of a performance gain. It’s just cheaper than a stock one. Specs are 256 duration 8.5 mm lift

In search of a series 2 260rs front bar within aus. Thanks to the rainy season and qld’s shit roads i hit flood water at about 80 kph in the middle of the night. ABSOLUTY disintegrated my front bar beyond repair. So yeh i do not care what colour or condition as long as its fits a series 2. I know how rare these are, so I am kind of just hoping to god someone has one. Can get them new from Japan but there about $3500 without shipping which just is not an option. I can organise freight or pickup if located around Brisbane area.

Yeh i thought so too even with the ball end the lip just over hangs too much to get even close to the bolt head.

I’ve had these wheels for a while, and I think it’s time to give them a freshen up. I want to fully disassemble each wheel to clean and possibly paint. They are 3-piece wheels so the whole thing is held together by about 40 nuts and bolts all the way around the wheel. The thing is that it is impossible to get a Allen key to fit into the bolt because of its location (see pics). There are nuts on the other side of the wheel and I can get a spanner on them and break them loose. But as soon as the broken loose it just starts to spin, you have to have a Allen key on the other side to stop the bolt from just spinning. obviously, there’s some way to get them apart but I feel like I’m just missing something.

Ah oh well. Can’t win em all. I’ll just have to suck it up and do it properly the old fashioned way.

I’ve been f**king around with the lifters in my rb trying to get them to stop ticking. But when I’ve gone to put the cams back in I just realised it’s basically impossible to re seat the timeing belt on the cam gears. I know your meant to use the tensioner to get the belt back on. But to get to it is a bloody pain I’d have to remove my rad and harmonic balancer (which I also don’t have a puller for) and if possible would like to skip all that extra work. Does any one know any little tricks that I can use to get the belt back on the gears without haveing to use the tensioner. I’m guessing I’m probably just gona have to suck it up and do it properly but hey why not ask ?‍♂️

Hadn’t thought of the fuel pump could be the problem ill add it to the list of possible problems. I’m guessing your talking about the little tongue on the back of the CAS sensor that slots into the cam shaft. Seems to be all good had another look but made sure that it lined up and slotted in nicely the first time anyway. Unplugged maf at idle. Ran a little rougher than normal I’m not sure what that proves though? Thanks for the suggestions ?

Bit of background. So, car had been running rough for the past month or so where I’d get no power on boost at all basically almost felt like it was na. Checked for boost leaks, replaced plugs and coil packs compression test all fine still no progress. After about a month of scratching my head thought I’d check the ignition timing to see if that’s the issue. Got the coil cover off and CAS lose ready to adjust everything but as I went to check it all turns out my shit supercheap timing light decided to stop working. So, I put it all back together making sure to put the CAS back in its original spot so not to stuff everything up. Went for a driver and after about 20 mins car hesitated pretty violently jerking the car a bit. Kind of like fuel cut would feel like. And then 10 seconds later it all goes to shit and starts misfiring like crazy. Its struggling to stay at idle without me giving it some throttle. Then bam like the flick of a switch completely back to normal. and then a minute later it happened again misfiring like crazy. It stalls like twice as I’m trying to get it off the road to a side street its parked now and not starting at all, let her sit for about 5 minutes and tried to start it again. fired up perfectly normally and idled for a few mins completely fine and then again lots of misfiring and it died and wouldn’t start. I came back the next day to see if I could get it home because I only lived 2 mins down the road and f**k getting a tow truck for that. But same thing again stated fine got halfway there and it started to shit itself again, lucky I was on a hill so I could just roll her home. So in a nutshell Car has a intermittent misfire with no specific trigger. comes and goes every few mins. So, since its intermittent like that it’s pretty obvious its not mechanical issue. That seems like a pretty fair statement to make right? Therefore, its most likely a electrical issue. Something to do with a sensor or ecu. My best guess from my research is that its Either the AFM or CAS sensor that’s causing the issues. especially since i was fiddling arounds with the CAS sensor earlier. Does this sound about right to anyone? Thanks

What’s EMAP?

Hhmm Yeh could still definitely be possible. I might have to look into a pressure test. Still it’s a substantial loss of power just for some higher intake temps. Plus its only the stock turbo and I’ve already got it basically maxed out at 12psi. If it had to work any harder it’d probably disintegrate.

Got a basically stock 99 RB25Det Neo Stagea. Just recently had to replace all the coil packs because one had failed so I got some brand-new spit fires for the old girl. About a week after installing them stated to feel like the car was down on power a little when I got on boost. After driving around for a bit I could tell something was up. first gear almost felt like the car was NA with what felt like no extra power when I got on boost. Second wasn’t as bad had a little extra power on boost but still nowhere near where it was before. 3rd 4th 5th Also sort of felt off (But it’s kind of hard to tell in the high gears). To sum it up Car feels Absolutely normal driving around normally (Not getting on boost). But as soon as you get on boost there is no power. The car sort of hesitates and throughout the rev range the power will tend to fluctuate come in and out a little bit. I’ve been driving it sparingly for the last week and have also noticed that some days it feels like its NA with almost zero power. Others its not so bad. And one day this week the car feels almost normal. So, it’s a little intermittent. Not too sure what’s going on My first reaction was "it’s probably just a boost leak" but my boost gauge was still siting on 12psi like normal and I’ve got the reference line for it coming directly from the intake manifold so there’s no funny business going on in between. Other Thought was it had something to do with spark. so, I got all new sparkplugs and just got a brand-new set of coils. I just left the plugs with the stock 1.1mm gap and tested each coil pack/coil pack wire and plug to see if I’m getting a nice blue spark which I am. So that’s crossed of the list From what I can tell I must have something to do with fuel. Not sure exactly what could be only guess is dying pump, blocked fuel filter, blocked injectors. Note about 3 weeks before all this I used some of that liquid injector cleaner that you put in your fuel tank. possibly dislodged a bit of gunk somewhere in the fuel system and is causing issues?? I have no real way to test the fuel pressure let alone the whole system. Haven’t really messed around much with fuel stuff all that much in my time so any ideas or tips or tricks for trouble shooting would be greatly apricated. Could it be possible something is stuffed with the ecu???

Hmm yeh oh well looks like I’ll either just try driving it how it is or get ready to rebuild the engine?

Well turns out you guys were right one of the hoses on the gauge was munted ad was limiting the pressure. But know after fixing it I’m getting 150 psi on all but one cylinder which is at 90psi. So something has f**ked it’s self probably ringland.