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Pyren

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  1. Hi folks, ive got a weird issue that my wiper arms are acting downwards instead upwards. I removed the motor during repainting the bay, and now its somehow wrong. ive never taken the plate off the motor which is hold by that one nut. i just clipped the arm out and now im having the weird problem that my motor runs the knuckles first a bit up and then downwards instead upwards. how could this happen? Is there a way to relearn the motor, to set start and end position? It seems it is just acting in the opposit way as it should... Thanks in advance
  2. thanks for the reply! yes IGN was on when trying it and I also know how the bleed mode should work. My problem is that the pump wont turn on if I open the bleeder. Normally I should give it 1 sec blurps to bleed but it simply does not do anything when I open any bleeder. Where can I see codes on the attessa unit? like directly on the unit in the trunk? clogging shouldnt be an issue as the system was not taken apart. i only diconnected the line to the back of the trans as I had the engine out for a rebuild.
  3. Anyone had this issue before?: i was trying to bleed the attessa (r33 gtr vspec) and the strange issue that I have is that the bleed mode of the pump does not work. Ive done it 2 years ago and it was working. so when i disconnect the white connector under the dash the pump only starts if i turn ignition on, but when opening the bleeders it wont start on loss of pressure. if the connector is connected the pump won't do anything no matter what. also strange is that there is only very little fluid coming through the diff bleeder, as there is no pressure. On the other hand there is good pressure on the transfercase bleeder. I have no ECU connected, never touched any wiring on the attessa sytem and fluid level is ok. anyone can help?
  4. Hi guys, I forgot to install the breather hoses, are they important or can i leave the hoses towards the ground? Best regards
  5. Hi guys, I took my gearbox off (R33 GTR) the other day and I made a mistake. instead of simply removing the pipe at the end of the gearbox, I removed the whole Flansh (Unit) where the pipe is attached to. Now my question is: Is it fatal? and there was a lot fluid coming out which I assume was the Transfercase fluid. Is that correct? So if I assemble it again can I simply reseal the unit and fill the transfer case and bleed it or was the fluid a different one than the on out of the transfer case? Is there anything else I need to take care of? Best regards!
  6. teah we looked at it it seems to be fine, we bled the lines and changed the whole brake fluid. next step i am going to look at is too shortcut the clutch damper. maybe de piston of the damper is not sealing well. friend of mine had that problem on a Nissan Patrol. Ill give an update. Thanks in advance!
  7. Also I dont think thats bent, the pedal feels like it should, or wouldnt i recognise it?
  8. what do you mean with cracking and bending? u mean the master cylinder? thanks
  9. Thanks for the input, i am pretty sure that we managed to bleed the lines well so that point is done. If the clutch is nearly done then it is finde for me but my concern is that its not opening fully. I just want to sort that out before i do something else.
  10. Hi guys, I have a problem. First of all I do have a Twin plate clitch in my r33 gtr. When pressing the clutch pedal it make some rattling noise, after reading and gathering some info this is considered as normal with those type of clutches? The bigger problem is that my gearbox sometimes gets stuck in 1st gear when im stopping with the clutch fully pressed it still wants to go forward. Also its really hard to change gears sometimes. I ve done an gear box oil change and bleeded the clutch line (both damper and slave cylinder). Nothing helped. I would need some advice where too look at next. Could it be that my clutch pedal needs to be adjusted? (clutch feels heavy but normal and the point where it grabs is late) Please give me some advice :) BR
  11. Thanks a lot that helps me !
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