Ottdurr

Yep it was the cheap coil. Problem went away when swapped with genuine coil. Even a used genuine coil is better than a brand new cheap coil it seems

Yeah you're right that's what I get for being a cheapskate

Vq25det Recently had a wobbly misfire with code 1320 and went through the rounds of replacing spark plugs, no result, pulling coils to see what cylinder etc you know the story. Found cylinder one had the misfire and the misfire followed the coil into different cylinders when swapped so its definitely that coil. Easy fix so I bought a coil off trademe for $38 and boom no more misfire. However the check engine light is still coming on and showing p1320. I've reset it using the accelerator pedal method and it does go away, but it comes on again the next time the car is restarted, with the same code 1320. The misfire is totally fixed I just need the MIL light to go away, any ideas? The $38 china coil seems to work perfectly but maybe it's still just throwing a code bacause it's got incorrect resistance or something?

Auckland, New zealand 180,000 km 5k ono https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/nissan/stagea/listing/2655419999

As far as I'm aware its bone stock, maybe masking tape is making it look bigger ?

That's really cool thanks

I'd be curious as to have a flick through but I am in new zealand :(. If you'd ever go to the effort of scanning and uploading them there would be a few people around the globe who'd be very keen

Nope it's the factory open diff. Does the pre load disengage when the engine is turned off? If so could you turn off car, disconnect power to solenoids while car is off and then turn on car and there is no preload?

Thanks I think m35s are different again though?

Yeah it seems like it will work right? Keen to hear some more opinions. ABS being disabled won't be a huge safety problem seeing as the primary use for the "fun switch" would just be for whipping it round a gravel pit or something

Very interesting, thanks. Is it the same for m35 stageas though?

250t rx-four here I've trawled through the old forums and everyone basically says no "fun switch" can safely exist in this car and if you wanna make it 2wd you have to remove front driveshaft or something serious like that. It's been a couple years and I've got a bit of an idea, hear me out. Ive had a search and a lot of people have reported intermittent faults with the 4wd light coming on and the car going into 2wd mode. I've had this fault too, only occasionally and it goes away if i restart the car. The error on the japanese infotainment screen roughly translates to "Your 4wd is no longer working but you can still drive the car in 2wd, please see nissan dealer to repair 4wd". It seems for some people the issue is caused by a faulty relay in the front of the car under the air filter, and replacing it could fix the intermittent fault. I tested mine by removing that relay and the 4wd error light came on and the car was effectively 2wd. I think this relay controls ABS too so maybe the car loses its abs too. My question is, why don't we just hook up a dash mounted switch in line with the wires going to this relay to disable or enable it for a "fun switch" to safely make our cars 2wd at our will? I've read some of the people on this forum reckon something like this will harm the clutch for the 4wd but why would the infotainment screen say it's okay to keep driving with a similar fault? A fun switch wouldn't be pressed every day anyway so surely it's not that bad?

See attached pictures, I never knew there was a light bulb socket in my glovebox until I pulled it apart today. I put a spare blue bulb in there and it's all wired up it works perfectly, but it doesn't do anything! The light goes nowhere as you can see there's 2 slots to clip on the mount where a tiny amount of light could shine into the the glovebox below but 99% of the light from the bulb just gets blocked by solid plastic. I took a scalpel to the plastic that was blocking the light and it works as intended now. I thought this was really strange, are they all built like that or does mine have a casting error in the plastic? this last picture is how it looks now I've removed some plastic. Shouldn't it have been designed like this?

Thanks ?

When replacing valve cover gaskets I decided to do a full clean and paint of both covers as well as the intake manifold, gonna throw away the plastic engine cover now it's actually a kinda nice looking engine

Random thought In my 250t rx four, when I switch on full 4wd synchro and try to drive while steering full lock the car shudders and the tyres drag across the concrete just like in a 4wd ute or something I beleive it's called transmission wind up. What about the people who own AR-X fours or any other permanent 4wd stageas, do they have the same problem or is there a centre differential or something

No such thing here in NZ

Factory

It's a dual port BOV with 25% venting to atmosphere and 75% plumb back, hasn't thrown a check engine light or anything so it seems the sensors are happy

I know it's an age old argument that turbo flutter may damage the turbo over time, but I want to know if it can still damage the turbo if it only flutters at very low boost? Recently got a new BOV and I've adjusted the pretension spring so it only "blows off" above 4 PSI, which means if I release the throttle at ~2 PSI I get a nice fluttery Su-tu-tu-tu which my inner 14 year old self loves. My logic is that surely this couldn't possibly damage the turbo like 14PSI with no BOV could. What do you reckon?

Bear with me. I've always had issues with burning oil smells coming in through my vents from the engine bay, I recently changed the rocker cover gaskets as they were leaking oil, and the smell was the oil leaking onto hot manifolds and the turbo etc. That kinda fixed it but just the other day I smelled it again very strong, and upon closer inspection the inner cv boot on the passenger side has split and flung a thin line of grease in a perfect arc all across everything including the starter motor and turbo heat shield. The Cv boot needs to be repaired obviously but I was wondering if you think that will also fix the burning smell I've been experiencing recently?

If you never check it how do you know it isn't low on oil?

2500km after the last oil change and I've just had to add 1.5l of oil to get back up to the "full" mark. That sounds pretty wrong to me but there are a few sources online that say 1L/2500km is normal for most cars and I found one that reckons the vq25de specifically can use 0.5L/1000km which means mine is normal, What have you guys experienced?

Wow nice job that's pretty in depth