Finn_GT-T

There is a guy in Germany who manufactures such lips: https://chrismo-parts.jimdofree.com

Thank you for the infos. I would need 120 mm rods if I wanted to use the rb25 pistons with the rb26 crank. Machining rb26 pistons to suit the rb25 neo head is not that easy. the rb25 neo pistons do not have a flat surface but a little dome and the pockets for in and ex valves. To find someone with the right cnc skills would be too much effort for a 61 ccm higher displacement. These are the cp pistons for the neo, that I are already have here:

Ok, i've found the right search term for this info. If my information is correct, the compression high between the two differs by 1.5 mm. RB26: 30.0 mm RB25: 31.5 mm That would be too much difference using the stroker rods.

I've just had another silly idea Maybe I could use conrods from the tomei rb28 stroker kit. These are 3 mm shorter than the std rods. Does anyone know the exact pin heigth difference between the rb25 and rb26 pistons?

I am also searching for that sexy red emblem. Does anyone know the part number? Amayama offers a part with the number 62890-AB000, but it seems to be the chrome version of the emblem. Where can i get the red version? Any suggestions?

I think I would feel a little bit bad about machining down a shiny new set of forged pistons I would also worry about the stability without the dome... maybe that's a too high price for the little increase. Do you know which pistons they used in the engines you saw running?

I was hoping it was a common mod because it is a cheap (but small) stroker for the 25. I've already found a few threads on this subject on UK Skyline forums. They say it works, but don't mention what pistons they used. In the end, as you said, the main problem would be the pin height of the pistons (if using 25 pistons) or the compression ratio (if using 26 pistons). The compression ratio could be lowered if I use a thicker head gasket. The thickest one I found is 1.8 mm thick. Wiseco offers pistons that lower the compression ratio to 8.25 compression for the rb26. If I have the head and block machined, I may lose 0.1 to 0.2 mm that would also slightly increase the cr. So maybe the cr problem could be solved. I just wonder if the pistons and valves do not collide. Especially if I use the VTC of the neo head. I don't get the problem solved if I enlarge the combustion chambers in the head a little. Does anyone have experiences with this? You are right, the increase in capacity would be low but with the right pistons it would be an easy modification because i am rebuilding my engine anyway with new rods and pistons. My current setup is a gtx3076 gen2 on the stock neo with with 1.2 mm metal head gasket and i want to keep the turbo because I installed that setup just 1,5 years ago. I am just aiming for a bit more low end torque.

Hi guys, i am doing a rebuild of an RB25det NEO engine. I have the chance to get an RB26 long nose crank for a good price. My idea now is to put the crank into my rb25 block an buy forget rb26 rods and pistons to get a cheap stroker and solve the short nose problem of the rb25. The crank should fit into the block but what about the combination of the pistons and the neo head? Will there be an issue with colliding pistons and valves when using the vct of the neo block? Will the compression rate be ok? Any experiences with that combination?

ok, this is exactly the information I opened the thread for. Thank you guys. If I understood you correctly Driftworks just names them wrong. But the Driftworks "Rear Traction Arms" are the same as the Whiteline "Rear Radius Arms"? Driftworks: https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-rear-traction-arms-with-poly-bushes-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html Whiteline: https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KTA117&sans_vehicle=1

Ok I just ordered front and rear camber arms with poly bushes, front tension rods with rod ends and rear toe arms with poly bushes. Let's see how they affect the handling. If that is not enough for me, I can always get further upgrades. I was wondering if rear traction arms would pay off but according to internet forums they are only supposed to provide more stability for acceleration. to identify a need for an upgrade i will first need to get less wheel spin by changing tire width ;)

I'm going to fit some new wheels on my Skyline GT-T (9.5x18 Offset: 18). It's obvious to me that i will need more negative camber to fit them. I looked at the Driftworks shop an found out that they offer many options. For camber adjustment I chose: Rear camber arms with poly bushes: https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-rear-camber-arms-withpoly-bushes-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html And front camber arms: https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-front-camber-arms-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html Are there any major upgrades that I should install while I'm at it? As there is a 10% discount there, I am open for further investment. The more you buy, the more you save

I've installed the Nismo meter in my 98 GTT that was converted from AT to MT. There was nothing to do but removing the old one and replace it with the nismo one. ECU was the stock AT one. So maye you forgot to plug in some connector or did not put it in completely?

Hi from northern Germany to southern Germany! What does the japanese writing on the wing mean?

Ok, then the adder table should be the right one for that. Thank you!

Ok, if I unterstood you correctly: It is not necessary to insert the whole flow dataset somewhere in PcLink, but only the correction to get a linear line below 2.2 ms?

Ok mates, finally I solved the riddle with the help of the injector testing function. The solution was just as simple as plugging in the connector of the injector harness...lol Now the engine is running...not very well, but i runs. Thank's for your help! So here's my next question for you: Deatschwerks provides the following data sheet: https://www.deatschwerks.com/sites/www.deatschwerks.com/files/DATA/injectordata/21S-XX-0600-XX%20Injector%20Characterization%20Summary.pdf I already adjusted the dead time table in PcLink. But where do i put the values from the "Pulsed Flow Data"-table of the data sheet? Is that the right data for the "injector short pulse width adder table"?

I've done some checks yesterday. Spark test was successfull but the spark plug seem to stay dry. Fuelpump is working and there is fuel in the fuelrail and pressure on the fuellines. So I think the injectors are not getting fired in the correct way. Deatschwerks say that they are p&p for the gt-t, I'll check if that information is correct. Does anyone have more information about that? I used 21S-05-0600-6. When I disable the iat in PcLink the ecu sets a permanent temperature of 21°C.

The main question is in my last sentence. I'd like to be sure that it is not a problem caused by wrong parameters in the base map or my config.

Hi, yesterday I tried to start my GT-T the first time after upgrading to GTX3076 and Link G4+. Well, it failed. What has been modified? Link G4+ GTX3076 int. wastegate Link 3 bar map Tomei headgasket Deatschwerks 600 cc injectors Deatschwerks DW300 Fuelpump Blitz FMIC 3" catback + 3" downpipe + custom turbo elbow Oil gallery restrictor GFB Mach 2 blowoff What was not done, but will come in the near future? Fuel pump rewire to replace the fpcm Link IAT sensor (not wired in) Tomei fuel pressure regulator wastegate actuator (mounting plate missing) boost soleniod not installed because ot the missing wastegate actuator wideband (oem narrowband installed) Modifications to the ECU: R34 GT-T base map stored to ecu configured for link map sensor calibration of the map sensor calibration of the tps deactivated temp3 input (fuel temp - was enabled in base config and causing errorcode) deactivated the iat because of not being installed yet When I turn the key the fuel pump and injectors get highlighted in green, so I think that the ecu activates them. The starter cranks the engine but with no sign of firing it up. Could it be a problem that the iat is diasbled? should i reduce the duty cycle of the injectors? Is there any further config needed that i could check before searching for issues (ignition spark/fuel/etc)?

Okay, then I'll try to be more brutal.

I tried to remove the turbo studs from my OEM gt-t exhaust manifold because I need longer ones. I've put some WD40 on over night an screwed two nuts on them but could not manage to remove the studs. Is there any special method to remove them from the manifold?

How about the celarance between pistons an valves? Is it a problem, when I reduce the hight of the cylinder head on a neo engine with variable valve timing?

By the way, what do you think about applying permatex spay gasket to the tomei gasket before assembly? Does it help to get a better sealing, or is it just wasted money?

Thank you all for the replies. This forum is much better than the german equivalent. ARP studs are already in my garage waiting for me to screw them into the block. I think I'll go for the tomei gasket because of the small extra cost but higher (presumed) reliability compared to the oem gasket. Will the higher compression ratio be an issue when mapping the link ecu because of the risk of knocking? Keeping in mind that the stock knocksensors will stay in the block.

I've clculated the compression ratio value for the 1.2 mm including the 0.16 mm of material that the machine shop removed from the head. When I use the 1.2 mm gasket it will be the same as 1.04 mm gasket with the cylinder head before machining it.