BourneToLive
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BNR32 GT-R
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RB26 Cam Cap Bolt Snapped
BourneToLive replied to BourneToLive's topic in Drivetrain and transmission
Yeah. The more I think about it, the more I want to go with replacing all of them. The only thing keep me from doing that is that some bolt seem to be seized in the cam caps. I have no idea how to pull those things out without possibly damaging the caps. -
RB26 Cam Cap Bolt Snapped
BourneToLive replied to BourneToLive's topic in Drivetrain and transmission
That’s good to know. It was human error. I over torqued the bolt. I barely felt the click in my 3/8 torque wrench and kept turning the bolt. -
BourneToLive started following BNR32 ATTESA 4WD light , RB26 Cam Cap Bolt Snapped and Disregard
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Hey, everyone, I had an unfortunate thing happen to me while changing out cams. One of the cam cap bolts snapped in the second-to-last cap of the exhaust cam. I really don’t want to spend a whole day taking everything apart and putting it back together for the fifth time. Is it possible to just removing the one cam cap and extract the broken bolt without taking everything else apart (everything involved with loosening belt tension and removing the other cam caps)? I just want to know if it’s possible to do without breaking my cam. Would it lessen the risk if I rotate the cam to where the lobes in that area are not being pushed on by the valves springs?
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I already did. It blinked 8 times. That’s the ABS motor actuator and relay circuit. That’s why I assume it displays code 8 because of the deleted ABS, so I don’t think it’s accurate.
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Hey, everyone, Suddenly, after driving yesterday, my 4WD light came on. My torque gauge wasn’t moving. Nothing was out of the ordinary, except for this weird sound at the actuator attached to the transfer case when I turn the ignition on. And it only does it after a minute of turning the ignition off. So, if I were to turn the ignition on again within 10 seconds, it doesn’t make that sound. I will attach a video of it. The ETS ECU flashes code 8, but I assume it’s because my ABS was deleted a couple years ago. I checked my ATTESA reservoir and it still has fluid at the minimum line. For a little over a year, I noticed a small leak at the high pressure line that’s attached to the transfer case. It formed a drip. I tightened it about a month ago and it hasn’t dripped since. Could it be that the actuator at the transfer case needs to be bled of air? I already ordered Nissan Matic D ATF to do that. How likely is it for that actuator to go bad? Also, is it safe to run my R32 GTR without the 4WD fuse? This is car is my daily, so I still need it to go places. IMG_6681.mov
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I have reached out by email for clarification, but they stopped responding the fourth email. I found this picture diagram on the trinity pressure switch and found it helpful. This is what I got so far: Black/white= 12v IGN AC feed Blue/red= Ground Red/white= ECU AC pin 9 Blue/white= Relay
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This is what I managed to come up with, so far. Worst case scenario, I have to depin and move around some pins at the pressure switch. I know everything else is right. I’m think about splicing both the pressure switch ground and fan ground together. That shouldn’t be an issue right? Excuse the amateur wiring.
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I got myself a multimeter. There was no continuity in either of the pins. I’m just gonna wing it and see what happens.
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Yeah, there was not much information provided because the kit was intended to be installed by a professional. I don’t have that option in my area, so I’m on my own. The connector does have numbers on it. I labeled them appropriately based on the diagram I was given, but it didn’t make sense to me because of the colors of the wires that matched the numbers. I watched FPG’s install video on YouTube (didn’t cover wiring the kit) and noticed that their wires are terminated in a different order on the connector side, which is why I asked the question. I just want to be sure.
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I have a follow-up question. Based on the picture I added of the wires, which ones would you say is which? Would you say the solid blue w/stripped wires are for the pressure switch 12v IGN/Pin9 wires and the solid red w/ white and solid black w/white are for the relay and ground? If it seems obvious to you, I’m sorry; I just want to be sure.
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Alright. That’s good enough for me. I appreciate the help guys.
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I just tried with a test light. Clamped to a good grounding point and start poking around in the connector. Nothing happened with the Aqua/White wire, and with the Green/Yellow wire, I heard a click around the relay box.
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I should be able to determine with a test light as well, right? 12v IGN wire should light up the test light. I don’t have a multimeter on hand at the moment.
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The two wires that ran to OEM drier pressure switch are Aqua/White and Green/Yellow. I’m not sure about the aqua one. I’ll attach a picture of the wires.