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MoMnDadGTR

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Everything posted by MoMnDadGTR

  1. keep taking your time on build looking great mate. 2 points don't worry about the gearbox if your not gunna be competitive with the car. im one of many running 400awkw on stock gearbox and I drive my car very hard and race on weekends. the os giken set is a great upgrade for around 500kw(or just buy the used ones that come for sale every so often so you have an extra gearbox ready to role if something freak happens, or build It up with a os set. extended sump all that stuff is track/drag/really hard driving bells and whistles non of that extra shit matters for the weekend warrior.oil cooler with a relocation I bet would be plenty for your setup. I mean if your willing to put the time and money into extended sump setup mise well get a deadly gearbox too. keep it simple m8 look at some of the mines builds there super simple and they power down hard with efficiency. the final tune and maintenance on the car are most important. 6 boost with the new precision or garrett gtx35 series would be nasty. look how simple this build Is by the ultimate himself don't need to make things complicated to have a setup that works great.
  2. what a unit definitely one of cleanest for sale 32's ive seen in a while. one journey ends to a new beginning for another!
  3. yeah who knows why or how they thought that was gunna work well over time for an engine that revs to 8000rpm(short collar).....
  4. hey mate I will take the fuel system and cover postage to Canada...my injectors are leaking from the yellow area I need to replace a few but will take the whole kit...thanks mate.
  5. hey im interested in these parts let me know if there still available I will cover freight if your willing to do that mate. thanks.
  6. That looks exactly like mine did and I had extended collar from factory. My car is later 93 like stated before. Your factory collar is an extended one from what I can tell.
  7. amen almost half a million that's wild. they are tough engines. I ran my rb26 with stock ceramics at 1.3 bar for 30,000km regardless of the hype of them blowing...it handled it like a beast till they started leaking oil. changed to -5's been driving the hell out of it ever since. keep up with maintenance and learn about the car. there simple and you can make them to how ever you want fairly easy. gt35 setup is nice.
  8. also would like to ad you can keep things very simple and still reach 500hp, don't get caught up in all the hype you hear and read. that being said there are some reputable guys on here that will steer you in the right direction everytime. a good turbo on a 6boost manifold is a good start. GTSboy is a solid member sure he will ad something up here for you he knows his stuff, nizmo_man as well they have helped much with my car.
  9. that was all great advise...id like to ad a good place to start is a compression test on engine. pressure up the turbo system check for vac leaks as this controls idle etc and makes things easier like setting up cas, boost, and a bunch of other things. try and get an unmolested car it always makes trouble shooting easier. the more reading you do the better. when I bought my gtr I just started replacing literally everything to be safe from 02's,mafs, iacv, injector seals, fuel filter, intake gaskets,wiring harness's water and oil pump, rad etc. don't need to go crazy but I know the way I did it I had piece of mind and have no problems cranking my boost to 1.4 bar knowing the car is up to the task. I also change my oil every 1500km. change the headgasket and studs should be good go. I could go on and on as I love helping out cause we all started somewhere! thanks for your service hope you end up with a beauty. tune is a big part of reliability at 500hp. the rb should handle it all day if its setup right and rings are in good shape still.
  10. you definitely need to machine it yup..6 boost top mounts are the only manifolds you see in my area and are total bulletproof manifolds that never crack and have a ton of different flange options. 1200 Canadian dollars cant beat it mate.
  11. sorry for double post but ive ordered all my higher end parts from kudos their a great parts source for stuff like this(engine components, suspension, etc.) cheers mate definitely a good upgrade for your rb hoping you have extended crank collar as well?
  12. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/pump-gear-billet-chromoly-steel-reimax-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-with-pump-77mm-gear-p-1981.html ordered from this direct link parts came quick and was recommended by others on this site that know there stuff...motor out job wasn't that bad. cheers
  13. this was only my 2 cents and also said motul 15w40 has my vote all day for the ballers. I was recommended t6 by a lot of guys on here that know a hell of a lot more than I do on this topic. not to mention running way more power than myself with crazy race setups. if someone has used t6 with a bad review I would honestly like to see it. over 150,000 hard km between the 3 cars(probably more) all still on original engines and only one that has oil usage is the type r integra, go figure its a stock bottom end b18c5 that gets raped daily I hope it burns a bit. I wont recommend anything to anyone just saying what has worked for 100's of guys out there without issues. the only time ive ever seen this foaming your talking about is on diesel light plants that run 24/7 wide open in plus 40 conditions that get stopped for an oil change every 4 weeks....this tends to cause foaming yup I guess....(2500rpm low revving engine running spec t6 oil still foaming like crazy mate.) foaming happens when an engine is being raped without proper cooling...add an oil cooler like every rb should have. t6 oil has lots of cleaning agencies in it you just need to change it more often if your worried...id take my rb26 to 7500km on t6 she loves it.
  14. this seems like a pretty silly thread bro buy what ever car floats your boat and if its to slow make it faster for yourself. legit twin turbo supras sell for a crazy dollar lots of guys scoop the na ones and single turbo them which makes them good to go with a rear lsd, and couple other parts. skylines are cool im sure your going to find lots of people that are gunna say the r34 you are on skyline australia....as far as reliability any cars only has good as its owner when your talking 25 year old cars... and the time and money your willing to put in to keeping in clean and well will determine the "reliability". gtsboy said it right these cars get in the wrong hands and get bunged up bad.
  15. I had an issue like this on my rb26 was iacv valve was right plugged up and caused the engine to stall when turning, lights on, a/c on etc. I don't know about your rb25 but could be the case if it idles fine when cold. also theres a screw on rb26 iacv that you can adjust I don't know about your setup but have you tried turning up the idle a bit in someway either through ecu or manually? what does the car idle at on a cold day when warmed up?
  16. Hope all is well to everyone in the alberta area through all this virus stuff....hoping to get together a descent car meet closer to September with all the nissans in the Calgary area. if your on board pm me through the months leading up to and lets get a descent crew together and do a Banff run...cheers
  17. its one thing to sift through a ton of info on these forums and believe everything you read, and its another to try, test, review, and find out what actually works for you and your cars.
  18. im gunna go ahead and say this is a load of malarkey mate....rotella t6 absolutely tried and tested I have this oil in over 15 units on my fleet as well as my integra type r, gtr, and gts. not to mention 2 1000hp supras in the area running t6. All cars that hit and see over 7500rpm daily. never once have I ever seen "oily air" or had any oil failures in anyway. ive had good luck with motul but for what its worth the t6 is better bang for buck. redline oil caused my rb26 to burn oil and smell like fuel in oil, instantly changed back to t6 and my motor was happier than a pig in shit(never see oil in my turbo pipes either). come on don't add comments that aren't true at all its quite misleading. forget rpm its an oil that withstands higher compressions rates than any of our rb's. I change my oil every 2000km in the R and have never seen foamy or bubbly oil once and ive dropped it cold, mild, warm, hot, and screaming hot. Also, I check my oil often the dipstick is always thickly coated with t6 never seeing any bubbles or "airy foam"....cheers
  19. sorry for double post, but could try blocking pvc system and running a catch can setup to see whats going on, may be a waste of time tho...just to clarify are you running a sr20 or an rb in your car? I had a integra type r once with a b18c5 it burnt 1 litre of oil to 3 tank of fuel but would smoke like absolutely crazy from the exhaust blue. I feel like if your rings were shot it would smoke quite a bit more than just on shifts. valve stem seals m8 or something weird internally maybe.....rebuild the engine and slap a new turbo on it start fresh.
  20. could be a combination of a few different inperfections and weaknesses in the engine. I think its time for a motor rebuild m8 get her healthy again. at least that's what I would be doing at this stage.
  21. hey Andrew, happy to buy those turbos off you if we can work out a price shipped to Canada...I had a -5 bite the dust. pm me if you are interested...
  22. hey mate interested in the defi gauges as a gift for my wifes car!, if your willing to ship to Canada I will cover shipping and your time...thanks m8
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