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Thanks again Josh, much appreciate the information . I used a magnet on the sprocket and it looks like the section that the bolts thread into is machined from steel (magnetic). As I hadn't found anything on it, I was considering just tightening them to 10-12nm (7.3 - 8.8 ft-lb), but maybe I should aim for a higher torque being it's inside the engine? Do you think the use of threadlocker (blue) would benefit ?

Thanks Josh :). As the VVT /VCT is already off, I'll be sure to follow when re-installing. 👍 You would happen to know the torque requirements for the 3 bolts securing the VVT/VCT housing? I've looked in my Haynes manual & a Nissan Almera (Pulsar in Europe) factory service manual, but can't see anything, unless I'm searching the incorrect name. If the VVT has 3 bolts allowing it to be disassembled as shown, there 'must' be a torque specification to tighten them back up, no? Thanks again

Thanks Josh, much appreciated It's getting clearer what these VVT gears are & how they function. As long as the solenoid is good & the oil passages are clean, the VVT gear-sprocket should function as intended? I'm still boggled about what Haynes is saying regarding the damage to the pin & the pin sheering. Still has me a little concerned even though I can't see how it would sheer. I might take everything apart tonight, give it a good clean, inspect & re-oil. Regarding the factory service manual. The one I have seems to be a factory service manual for Europe, however, it says it was released in 2001, though my car is a late 03' built in Japan (imported to Australia), so I'm not sure if there's a newer / later release of the manual, or if it covers 'series 2' QG18DE, or if Europe models varies differently to Japan/Australia models. I've been looking for a different factory manual but no luck so far. [EDIT] I took a photo of the compliance plate in the engine bay which has a model number stamped into it. Is anyone able to decode. Perhaps it would give more information on the engine or if anything's different with this variant ? CATARDAN16EMA-F---

[UPDATE] So, my curiosity got the better of me. It's my biggest flaw imo. I pulled the VVT apart to have a look inside & see if anything's broken. I am really confused... I expected there to be some sort of wound-spring creating a lot of tension inside hence why the 'pin' would shear. There's barely anything in here & nothing's under tension. The pin was in 'lock' position which I could pull out and move the internals. My mind is still boggled how these things work, why it's necessary to remove the sprocket the Haynes way & why Haynes would say the 'pin' would be damaged and shear if the allen key is removed while the sprocket it out of the engine . Am I missing something? I'm not a smart person so I'm assuming I am missing a lot about this situation..

So, I'm not sure if I have an issue or not. When I started removing the cylinder head for the head gasket job, I followed a manual I had for the Pulsar N16 which said to set piston 1 to TDC then holding intake camshaft with spanner, use breaker bar to remove intake sprocket bolt. Did that, removed the sprocket, did the exhaust, removed cams etc.. to where I am now. Today I got my hands on Haynes service manual for the Nissan Pulsar N16 and while reading, the removal of the intake cams is different. The Haynes manual actually mentions something about using compressed air to engage/disengage a locking pin, then using a allen key, lock the pin in place. But it also says not to remove the allen key before installing otherwise it'll damage the pin & a new sprocket would be needed. Well... I'm stumped here. I don't know what to do, how to check if there's issues, where to proceed. I had hoped to have everything done in the next day or two but this may have set me back even longer. Does anyone know what Haynes is talking about? What should I do at this point? How can I tell if this is damaged or re-usable? cam sprocket removalNissan pulsar n16.pdf

Thanks Josh :). I ended up getting a gasket set + bolts from the machinst. I got him to do the valve stem seals too so was a bit easier and quicker. He checked the head and it seemed ok, nothing damaged, so hopefully everything's all good. In the end, the machinist clean the block, surface the head and installed the new valve seals. Look tidy.

Thanks Josh :). Engine is series 2 as far as I know. I've seen two types of kits so far for the N16 QG18DE engine, I presume one is for series one (not 100% sure though). Do you have a link to the Rockauto kit you mentioned? Their website looks a little outdated lol, looks like it's from the 90's. I had a look, though the kits look a little different, at least based on the intake gasket, my intake gasket looks different, not sure about the head gasket itself though. Any suggestions on torque to yield bolts? I found a few sets of bolts but they lack information so not sure if they're suitable for this application despite being "compatible".

Finally got the head off. Will be taking into a machinist on Monday. I used a Daytona ruler from Sydney tools to check for warp on the head. I didn't get a .002' feeler slipping through, but a did shine a light from one side & noticed a hairline amount coming though, so whether it's because I used a ruler instead of a proper 'straight-edge', hopefully it's not as bad. The headgasket, I can't really tell from looking at it or the head/block what's going on. It's all a mess to me. The headgasket was split at the section that separates cyl #1+2, and cyl #3+4. see picture here. The exhaust valves 1 and 2 are rough on the surface (see images) ,anyone know if it's likely deposits or corrosion? The intake valves on the same cylinders seem fine though. Exhaust Valve #1 Exhaust Valve #2 Q: What brand Gaskets / Gasket Kits & Head Bolts are worth looking into? I don't really want to spend big $$$ on high-end, even if they are top-quality, I just need something on the budget end but from a good manufacturer if that makes sense? It's only a daily car and doesn't have a whole-lotta value. Q: Anyone know if the QG18DE (series 2 N16) has a coolant drain plug for the engine block? I couldn't see anything in the manual about it. Q: The camshaft section & cams are stained with oil (apparently it wasn't changed often enough). What's the best way/product that can really clean through all that? While fiddling with the car, I noticed the Alternator drive belt (I think that's what it's called) is in bad shape. I can't find anything printed on it to tell me the part number. Any ideas on how to find the correct part number and any recommendations on brands? Here's some more photos I uploaded to Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/gp/198784515@N03/hR2j80s9y0

Looks like I'll be digging into the engine :/. This should be interesting. haha, seems to be the case :p

Hey, thanks Josh :). I recently found out that the series 1 QG18DE has the coolant in the intake but the series 2 (which is what I have) doesn't. I'll have to look at getting a cooling system pressure tester and/or cylinder leak down tester. Thanks gain

Not sure. I'm pretty new to this stuff & it's only when a couple people pointed out some engines have coolant running through the coolant jackets in the inlet manifold, that's it's possible for that to fail and enter through the intake, plus running the engine I hadn't noticed bubbles or geyser-like spray from the radiator like in this video. Thought I'd check here, see if any other experienced people had any opinions on the situation.

Runs not the greatest. Got the pink slip done 2weeks ago as it's rego is due. Doesn't smell anymore though, only when I started it after it had sat for 1-2months. Understandable about pulling it a par. Was planning on taking the head off in the next couple of days, but then someone mentioned the possibility of a leak from the manifold. Thought I'd try test it first as it's more easily accessible on the side of the engine.

True, though so far it looks like a tiny bit, so I'm not sure if it got there via gasket or other. Biggest unknown for me at this stage is how all cylinders got coolant in them. 'If' by chance it was from the inlet manifold or EGR, how would I test for these, as the inlet and exhaust would be easier to test for as it wouldn't require the removal of the head, no?

Hey guys, Have a 2003 Nissan Pulsar Auto sedan (QG18DE). Couple months back the radiator cracked while driving the the engine reached hot. I pulled over quick to let it cool then drove a few minutes back home. Couple months later, I got a new radiator and installed with new coolant and started the car (with heater open). noticed car ran rough, bit of white smoke and smelt like old fuel / turps. Thought was normal as car had been sitting, but I noticed upon checking oil, under the oil cap with a little white foam. I removed spark plugs to see if signs of burning coolant and they were all wet (all cylinders), there was also coolant in the cylinders. White smoke video Rough idle Note, there didn't appear to be bubbles when I had the coolant cap off and the engine running. Now, I initially diagnosed with a head gasket based on what i saw and what I've read online, but someone's just mentioned that it may not be a head gasket as if the head gasket failed to the point that coolant was getting into all cylinders, coolant would be spitting out of the radiator like a geyser (with the cap off). One other person also said it could even be coolant going through the inlet manifold but I'd have to check if the inlet has coolant jackets in it. Before attempting to remove the head, I thought I'd ask here what you guys think? I'll have to double check some things tomorrow but I didn't see anything that looked like coolant would flow to the inlet manifold. Either way, is there a way to test for inlet manifold/EGR coolant leaks? Anyone familiar with this engine know if the intake/exhaust have coolant passages? I have a manual (PDF) but don't really know what to search for.

I know. I was just saying that in reference to spraying a chemical in the general area. I had a look but don't see any hoses going directly to the IAC