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scumlort

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About scumlort

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20E
  • Birthday 09/26/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NC, USA
  • Interests
    Drifting, road racing, FPS, shitposting

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    1995 Nissan 240sx (Zenki S14)
  • Real Name
    Toma
  1. Thank you for finding that page for me, I will look into finding a Z32 Ecu pinout diagram and wire the second connection for the hard idle switch to the ecu. What still confuses me is that once the car was tuned, it would come back to idle perfectly fine for a solid year and a half. Only recently did it begin to stall under decel. This leads me to believe that this hard idle switch being open wouldn't be my only problem and something else is left unresolved. When the car was tuned I had the atmospheric vent blow off valve so i'm positive some fuel was added to compensate and keep the car from stalling. In an attempt to rectify the issue i'm having I removed the BOV altogether. I would assume this would produce a rich condition but my AFR is very lean.
  2. I honestly would have opted to keep the nistune board in it but I'm not capable of performing the tune myself. The TPS used is a stock R33 TPS with two plugs. Attached is a picture of an identical TPS. The TPS was set to read 0.49v with tb closed and 4.2 or something WOT. For reference the TPS is plugged into the left, the right is not connected
  3. its a z32 ecu with a chip tune. car has been ran on a dyno and tuned to run with the given mods. I am aware that when using this ecu one of the knock sensors is not connected to the ecu because of pinout differences. I'm honestly not sure how my fuel control is setup on this tune, I am unable to read the fuel trims with the consult as the tuner replaced a nistune chip that was installed for his chip and tuned the car. I'm beginning to think I need to get my car retuned, maybe the file has potentially become corrupt
  4. As stated in the title I'm having a problem with my engine stalling when coming to a stop. Sometimes my rpm will drop but find it's way back to 900 rpm, other times it will flat out die. Other symptoms include bogging/bucking at low rpm, low speed (1200-2500 1st and 2nd gear.) and noticeable misfire at idle. When I start the car AFR is 12-13.3, but as I let the idle sit it will slowly become more and more lean (17~19+). On throttle the AFR reaches 13-14 again, but once I get to a cruising speed it sits at 15-16 AFR. Mods: Freddy Front facing intake plenum, New gasket used when installed 90mm TB from eBay, New gasket used when installed D585 LS coil conversion, using Wiring specialties plug n play harness Maxpeedingrods stock replacement turbo, New genuine nissan t3 inlet gasket, and 6 bolt outlet gasket were used Genuine and known good Z32 Maf, Wiring specialties plug n play harness Walbro 255, Hardwired to battery, original signal wire used to trigger relay ISR Fuel pressure Regulator Wiring specialties RB25 to S14 Pro series Conversion Harness Front Mount Intercooler Tuned by RS-Enthalpy 2 years ago to support mods, problem started happening 3 months ago No BOV Some things I have checked/replaced: Vac/Boost Leak test the intercooler pipes and core. Found leaks at the welds of the old Atmo vent BOV + a silicone coupler was split. Replaced coupler, replaced the whole pipe the bov was on with an untouched piece of 3" intercooler pipe Replaced Walbro 255 with a new piece Replaced Fuel filter, Z32 300zx TT Filter was used Replaced injector O-rings as well as fuel rail to plenum O-rings, reinstalled with engine oil to grease o-rings so they dont get damaged on their way in Raised Fuel pressure at FPR from 43 to 50 at idle Optima Redtop Battery (AGM Battery - 770 Peak CCA) Tested and recharged Removed IACV and Cleaned, reinstalled with new gasket and RTV Replaced Narrowband O2 Sensor and Wideband O2 sensor Cleaned engine grounds and Tested alternator to be in working order Spark Plugs replaced with BKR7EIX gapped down to 0.8mm Oil replaced with Royal Purple 5w-30, 4.8qt with Genuine nissan oil filter Today I discovered a coolant leak from what I believe is the thermostat housing/waterneck. I will drain coolant and regasket that tonight althought I doubt that Is where my issue lies. Believe me when I say I've used the search bar and google plenty before I post here. I'm desperately looking for some more suggestions
  5. here's a year old picture of my engine bay. The simple harness tuck under intake and fmic setup make it appear tidy but its really a bit messy for my liking. PCV blocked off and rocker covers routed to an oil catch can that dumps to atmosphere. To answer your question @Nouveua_Poor I live in Charlotte, but if you still lived here you would very rarely see this car on the road as it spends most of it's life in a storage unit. I have a tendency of eating steering racks and it's taking away from seat time😭
  6. Hello all, as mentioned in the title i'm from the United States. I've been working on this headache of an s-chassis for 4 years now and I finally decided to become a member of this forum today. I've come here to find information countless times and with the help of the search bar I typically find the answer i'm looking for. My s14 is equipped with a series 2 RB25 and matching gearbox out of an R33. It is a generic stock turbo setup with a front facing intake plenum and front mount intercooler. 13psi and a tune has allowed me to cross the 300hp threshold despite the stock injectors and 45v2 turbo with the fragile impeller wheel.
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