cachorro

It will be a HKS T4 manifold w/ a 60mm gate. Would there be a difference?

Herman's videos are on youtube on the Motive Video channel and they are worth the watch. I wonder on what grounds Maatouk claims a brace is not necessary. It could be true but as mentioned, where on the bell curve does each individual block sit. Also there could be dozens of combinations of variables. Do you have a link to the facebook post? Curious to read up on it.

Contemplating a 8374 1.05 vs. a 9174 1.05 on a built RB26. I will be running a Step 1 HKS 272 cam. What spool difference can I expect between both turbos?

I think a brace is pretty clear that it is actually a very worthy mod. Yes, we can argue that every mechanical part can break with enough heat and stress but your points are blinding the degree to which this is highly probable vs. not.

What kind of cars are breaking 26 blocks? I was watching Herman's youtube videos from 2 years ago and he said a number of high power GTRs are running the brace and not cracking blocks. He did mention grout filling too. I'm sure times have changed..

I'm sure the half-filled grout would help additionally strengthen to some degree. Especially with a PRP brace. Are blocks still cracking on that area with either or?

Well.. The oil does not looks sparky or glittery. I started the car as well and everything sounded smooth. Not sure if I dodged a bullet quite yet.. Am also mailing out the oil to be analyzed

Not running hot at the moment and piecing a single turbo build. Wanted general consensus around this setup based on experience

Since i've removed the water heat exchanges on my RB26, I was contemplating on adding a small oil cooler. Can anybody vouch for the effectiveness of a smaller Setrab unit like this or this? They're around 8x4-5 inch 10-13 row but I'm not interested in adding anything larger around the front bumper wheel well area. I'd rather keep it compact. The setup is not a race car but a street car with repetitive high RPM reaches.

The one on top of the manifold! There's no way i'm taking apart the actual throttle bodies.

I'd like to take it apart to freshen it up and polish it but am having a hard time figuring out how to remove the shaft from the bracket. Can anybody provide instruction or have any idea on how to do this?

I have an old school HKS Priest exhaust on my R33. I was thinking of swapping it but I like the style. It is a quiet exhaust and has a big old resonator. Does anybody have this type of quiet type muffler without the resonator? Would like any idea if it would sound raspy or not

If you have not built an engine before and you cannot afford to lose this one, I would really consider sending your pieces to a knowledgeable machinist and rebuilder to take care of this for you

The denominations you're listing sound like bulb sizes, not necessarily brightness. Either way, you don't want to find the brightest bulb. Have you ever ridden a car in the night with a really bright dash? You will not be able to see outside at night. Also, the bulb may be bright but if it only shines one direction the bleeding from one area on your dash/cluster to another will be obvious and this does not look good. You'll want to find a bulb with true 360 degree coverage or diffusion to not make the bleeding so obvious.

So there are 2 major areas I need confirmation with circled in red. I am in the process of piecing my single turbo setup and am eliminating some OEM vacuum sources. I've circled the areas of reference on the image attached 1) Charcoal canister : I've eliminated this (it's a track car). Is it ok if I loop both of these tubes behind the passenger side of the valve cover (pink and yellow) with one vacuum line? 2) Boost control lines: The OEM boost control setup was removed along with the turbos, of course. Per the green line it looks like this tubes route to an outlet on the bottom of the collector/plenum. I should plug this up, correct?

Does anybody know if this intercooler will fit with the stock charge piping configuration? HKS does not address this on their product description

Oh my gawd when will Garrett gift us these with T4 twin scroll

"You and I, we not so different my friend" ?

Yeah, that's exactly what i'm doing. Removing the front one to fit a 3/4 BSP to -10AN for the oil return. The rear one is getting blocked as well. Anyways, for future reference, I ended up jacking it up even a little higher and swiveling out with some muscle. It's doable

May I ask how you’ve managed to remove the mount this way? I’ve done this and have loosened up the mount but it is still lodged between the stud and the block...

Yes, going single turbo setup

Thanks. It’s ok if I leave the driver’s side bolted?

Any tips or tricks on removing this piece? Is this a 24mm? It's lodged in pretty well between the motor mount and the AC bracket.

Hi all. I’m currently installing my EFR7670 setup on my R33 GTR and have some questions on finishing it up Should i route the water feed line from the feed line coming from the back of the engine and T to the block, similar to the stock turbos setup? Can I just do the water feed from the block near cylinder 5 without having to bring in the rear line from the other side of the motor? Should I follow BW’s directions and plug the water feed on the bottom side and water return from the top side of the turbo? What’s the max boost I should consider? I know it runs on the smaller side but want to avoid over spinning the turbo (it’s a EWG 1.05 AR)

Thinking you're probably right