DONO

So I’ve been trying to remove an alarm, as it was going off randomly, and the remote has had it etc just wanted it removed. I’ve located the unit that is the alarm system itself. My question is; *is everything meant to plug right into a stock/factory piece that isn’t there?* I wouldn’t imagine so, but some of the plugs that went into the alarm look uncut/factory. I’ll attach photos with the post for reference. the alarm is marked with the label ‘warlock’ and a couple serial numbers but I couldn’t find any information on it, (was hoping for a diagram or even their website to ask them) so I assume maybe it’s a cheap eBay copy or something, and probably old. Any information helps, whether you know if it’s meant to reconnect to a particular part, or have a diagram of individual wiring, knowing the company, anything at all helps thanks.

It's always worth commenting on old thread to see if original poster is still active haha

I take it that it was the AFM as this was last reply on thread?

many years later and I wish this thread was finished lol, if you're still around, did you end up sorting it? What did it end up being?

*Update* I have just bought an NA one through supercheap (RIP bank) But yeah would still appreciate it if someone told me the difference between the two sensors -Thanks

Im not sure, but are the o2 sensors for the series 1 r33 turbo the same as the o2 sensor for NA r33? I ask as im looking to replace the sensor, and when I look on ebay for example i see they're advertised as different serial numbers (plugs still being same obviously). I also see that the turbo ones are advertised at half of the NA ones, and my car being NA it's a bit annoying and idk if there's a difference or if its just marketing to get unknowing people to pay more. So are the sensors actually different, am I not able to replace it with a supposed RB25DET sensor in my RB25DE? If there are obvious answers I apologies, I'm still new to working on this car. The only other post I can find talking about o2 sensors has been dead for some time and I can't find an answer to this question. (Car is pretty much entirely mechanically stock, if that matters) Thanks

Thanks mate I thought this was the case, I'll do that in the morning. Just wanted to see what others made sense of it, will update how it goes.

Hey everyone, i recently bought a new AFM for my series 1 r33 GTS as im replacing the old one (suspected issues etc). Quite simple, The old one is the original series 1 green label AFM, and I simply replaced it with a new series 1 green label AFM. Upon putting the new one in, the car runs awful, worse than just running it without one plugged in. Upon asking the seller, I was told the AFM needs to "relearn the fuel trims". I've not heard of this with any AFM replacement before unless its an upgrade to a different module, however this is just a direct replacement. Is this right? And if so what would I need to do for the ecu to 'relearn the fuel trims'. (The car is non turbo, running pretty much everything factory )

I've finished my installation, my old headunit insert (black clip that goes into back of head unit) was already mostly compatible just had to file down the plastic to make it physically fit in, and only required to tap one wire for the AMP remote power. Cheers for all the help fellas, but yeah no adapter around could fix the mess that was left over from past owners install. Luckily it didn't need to be completely redone.

all good I've ordered a GSS342, and will install it once it arrives

For me it's more the idea that, it's literally wiring that's going to be sitting in the fuel tank, and the idea of messing that up and causing a spark isn't a pleasant thought. The labour of doing the pump isn't a problem.

Does anyone know of a fuel pump that I can "directly" replace the factory one with for my N/A r33 GTS. Yes I know there's upgrade kits for more pressure etc, I'm not looking to make power I just want to replace the old pump without messing around with wiring etc, just want to direct swap it for a new one whether it be oem or aftermarket that direct fits to original bracket/wires. Cheers

I'd much rather do that, but I can't find any pre 95 Nissan adapters for the headunit harness.

Hey everyone, I'm chucking a new headunit in the car. I've loacted what i assume is the factory connector and it doesn't look like others I've seen. I'll attach a model of what I expected in the car vs a photo of the connector that I have. Is this right/factory? I'm very new to wiring, as well as harnesses etc so If I've gotten something wrong sorry. Nissan-Wiring.pdf

I'm going to go through the list of things to check/replace one by one when I get the chance. Can also confirm it's not MAF, cleaned it thoroughly with proper cleaner and check plug/pins etc everything is fine. Still got to check CAS and fuel pressure. As for getting a 'new' igniter, no idea where i'd be able to get a new oem one without paying $XXXX amounts for it.

A used one from Jack Phillips, working as it should just wasn't the issue. I've captured it on video just before and will post a link shortly, it was misfiring badly, that it wouldn't go above 3500RPM, acting almost like a limiter

Have installed new igniter, can confirm it did not fix the problem. Still open to suggestions as to what it can be..

Just ordered a replacement then, will update post if it makes any difference.

Hey everyone, so I have a 1993 Series 1 R33 GTS Coupe (N/A) that's been having a slight misfire issue for a bit now. Ill try and detail the situation in hopes for a fix. It occurs most commonly between 3200ish Rpm - 5000Rpm, however isn't occuring every time I put the foot to the floor, it comes and goes. I might drive out somewhere and it won't occur at all, then on the way home it may occur the whole time (only between said RPM range). I have already replaced the coil packs, and installed new spark plugs gapped to 0.8, new fuel filter, new thermostat (was running cold for a bit). I've read other 33's have this problem but usually they are turbo and always solve their issue by replacing coil packs or plugs.