Jump to content
SAU Community

r33tensh

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

r33tensh's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. ofcourse these are no where near the competition compare to big name turbos like garrett but again are great for a quick replacement to the oem turbos
  2. id imagine the stock turbos would do something similar. These turbos are good as a replacement rather than finding a 25 year old used oem turbo and installing it. Its not made to make huge power as its clearly not well sized to make big power but are great when u blow ur stock oem turbo and wanted a quick bugdet replacement.
  3. i do not own the dyno graphs. here are leprechaun laboratory videos with proven dyno graphs
  4. Piggaz. These dont come with any instructions on how to install them. I figured id share how to install them and share it. Anyone can use it as a guide
  5. This is a review of the MaXspeedingRods Rb25 Bolt on turbo. The Specs for this turbo are on there website and here is the link: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-rb25-rb20-max-21.75psi-turbo-turbocharger.html As per any aftermarket turbo, it has its limits and it should be setup in a way that its following the manufacturer rating to get its maximum efficiency and power gains. Do not expect to push it to ridiculous psi and to its absolute limit as it probably wont end well. That goes for any Brand name turbos. These turbos are rated for 16-18 Psi. A youtube channel Leprechaun Laboratory tested these turbos with their dyno and looking at the results it starts falling of its efficiency at about 18 psi which is surprisingly good. This turbo is a little bit bigger compare to the stock turbos so from my experience it its a few hundred rpms laggier compare to stock but it is able to boost higher and harder compare to the stock turbo. Im running 15 Psi on my setup at the moment and it performs really well and the spools sound is definitely better compare to stock. I think these turbos are great specially for the price. You get rid of the ceramic turbine blades on the stock turbo which means can boost higher with these turbos. The overall quality is surprisingly really good. bot compressor and exhaust side are balanced and every nuts and bolts have markings on it which states that its checked and tighten to specs. I know that these turbos might get a bit of hate as its a budget turbo but comparing it to the stock rb25, rb20 or neo turbos on the market and their price, these turbos are perfectly good and great for bolt ons. Now for the negative. These turbos came with a really small wastegate hole as shown on the photo. YOU HAVE TO port the wastegate hole to avoid boostcreep! once ported works perfectly fine and performs well. If you are still running the stock hard lines for the oil and coolant lines, you have to slight work around and slightly bend the lines when installing it to the turbos. If you already have braided lines then that shouldn't be a problem. Other than that these turbos are great as a bolt on replacement turbo as long as you treat it well and do not max it out to its limits.
  6. RB25 Bolt-on Turbo from MaXspeedingRods Install Guide This is an install guide for the bolt-on budget turbo from MaXspeedingRods. 1. Let the engine cool down and prepare to drain the coolant from the radiator. Drain the coolant from the radiator and get as much coolant out as possible. Jack up the front of the car and safely put it on jack stands. 2. Remove the Dump Pipe from the turbo. Spray some penetrating oil on the 6 bolts on the dump pipe and the 2 bolts on the catalytic converter. 3. remove all the inter cooler pipes including the J-Pipe. remove any vacuum hoses that's connected to the inter cooler pipe and turbo. Unbolting the power steering reservoir from the strut tower can be helpful for more space. 4. Remove the Exhaust manifold heat shield. Spray some penetrating oil on the turbo oil and coolant line bolts. Start with the Oil Lines. Remove the banjo bolt from the oil feed line. Remove both on the turbo and the side of the engine block. Remove the 2 Bolts on the Flange for the Oil Drain line and the banjo bolt that's connected on side of the engine block.. Once All the Oil Lines are removed start with the Coolant Lines. Remove the coolant feed and coolant drain. AVOID getting coolant on the Oil Drain line. 5. Unbolt the 4 bolts that's holding the turbo from the exhaust manifold. Again Spray some penetrating oil to avoid snapping the studs and to make it easier unbolting the bolts. Once unbolted the turbo should be able to detached and removed. 6. Install the new turbo and start with bolting it on the Exhaust Manifold. Connect All the Oil and Coolant lines and MAKE SURE TO USE NEW COPPER WASHERS. Torque the Banjo Bolts to OEM Specification to avoid leaks. 7. Install the dumpipe to the new turbo and connect it back to the rest of the exhaust system. 8. The new turbo doesn't have the 3 bolt 90 degree elbow that is found on the factory turbo on the compressor side. You can either weld a 90 degree elbow on it or simply just buy a 2 inch to a 2.5 inch 90 degree silicone elbow. 9. The new turbo intake inlet is a 3 inch compare to the factory 2.5 inch inlet. Install a 90 degree 3 inch pipe with silicone joiners and connect it with the afm and pod filter. 10. Install all the vacuum hoses and inter cooler pipe plus j pipe on and make sure all the clamps are tight to avoid boost leaks. 11. Fill the radiator with coolant and bleed the system. Top up the oil if needed and the car is ready to start.
×
×
  • Create New...