Djdannyr32

9/28 update. so I had a lil help and re traced and tested everything possible. all fuses intact, power to fuse box on all slots. Determined that the wiring in the dash for the headlight switch seems to be the culprit. The green wire with red appears not to be getting any voltage what so ever. also was able to backfeed on separate wire to test, all lights worked when doing so. does anyone have a clear wiring diagram? my example sucks and cant seem to find any better.... need to find where this wire goes.

yeah not the greatest if anyone has a better copy ?

So just to clarify. Ive checked all fuses in the engine bay as well as under dash with multi meter. all good. tested terminals fuses are in as well to check for power. all good. I do NOT have a fusible link as my battery has been previously relocated to my trunk and on a breaker ( currently good to go) I have traced the wires on the interior switch. The park circuit appears to be 3 wires / plugs on that switch, a red wire with grey specs, a black wire with grey specs and a Green wire with red stripe. I'm assuming that the green wire with the red stripe is supplying battery power as im currently getting nothing from said wire and it appears to be split/spliced into the cars fog light switch ( also acted as park lights switch ) To answer the above Lowbeams, highbeams, dome lights and brake lights work. I have a dvd player and yes it works/ plays. My park lights, taillights , and dash lights do not ( triple gauges out and haltech ic7 will not flip to night mode )

Hey guys, So I know the headlight issue has been beaten to death at this point on GTR's but don't think I've seen this happen and I'm at a loss at this point. The parking lights, interior lights, and tail lights ( when not on the brake) have all gone out. However, my headlights, high beams and turn signals all work. The park lights setting on the switch does nothing, as well as the fog light button ( its wired to act as another park light button ) I've checked all fuses under the driver footwell, all are intact, tested with voltmeter and good to go. Also tested the relay under the hood as well. Being the noob I am when it comes to electrical stuff and reading so much about the faulty switch and possible burnt out wiring, I went ahead and replaced both the interior light switch and harness to rule out. No Dice Same issue. Ive traced out some wires off the interior harness. it appears there are 3 wires / separate circuit for park lights? Im going to guess the Green with Red wire is battery feed? It also looks like its split into the fog light button which is making me believe is the issue. Has anyone had this happen before?

Have you looked into your brake booster? The unit is a diaphragm and could have a pin hole in it that could cause headaches. Just chiming in on my experience with my 32, I was chasing a similar problem for months. Car has Ferrari f40 Brembo's. Bled countless times, Bench bled the BMC, Replaced BMC twice finally using the hfm bmf57 as well. Adjusted the pedal. Nothing. was borderline dangerous how spongy it was. Check the vacuum lines on the booster.

Believe 5watts / 5 ohms does the trick im Forgoing the bulb, just setting a warning on the dash to warn for low voltage.

Anyone with an aftermarket dash, how did you redo the charging light? The LC7 does not have a slot for the charging light and I’d like to steer away from using an LED in the cluster housing. Can the original charging wire be used as an input into the haltech or can a resistor be used to emulate a bulb?

If some of these parts decide to show finally, yes!!! def would like to be there!

Lmao, hey atleast I’ll have the sickest car in the homeless shelter hahaha. it def has been quite an investment. And the saying if you buy a skyline be prepaid To have enough for a second def rings true! thanks for the hospitality haha

Current setup about to drop in

IMG_0264.MP4

Whats going on guys, Reside on Long island, New York. Owner of a KH1 91 R32 GTR for a few years now. Grenade the motor about a year ago ( old age , rod decided to qualify for NASA). Mostly stock. Since then I have had the motor fully built, gone single and am in the process of being dropped back in at the moment.

What’s up guys? currently building my rb26, in my final stages. Picked up a hks type s oil cooler kit ( -12 an fittings and lines ) decided I wanted to run a filter relocation and picked up the hks type R sandwich plates ( -10 an fittings / lines ) also plan on running an accusump as well in the system ( -10 an lines / fitting ) would running an -an reducer or flare fitting for the oil cooler hurt oil pressure or inhibit the oil flow? thanks in advance.