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ChrisW434

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About ChrisW434

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    Rank: RB20DE

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  • Car(s)
    '98 R34 GT-T coupe
  • Real Name
    Chris

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  1. Yeah thanks for that. Sounds good, i'm keen to do it right and try to avoid those little mistakes so i can concentrate on the driving, and not have little things get in the way of a good time 👍🏻
  2. Thanks heaps for all that info, exactly what i was after. Great explanations as well. one question : your ride heights of 340/350; what point are they measured from? cheers! 🙌🏻
  3. Hi all, i'm chasing some assistance on chassis setup for track days. Attacking my first track day later in the year and would like the car to have a decent setup with alignment, coilover settings etc. so i have a solid base to start with. Its a GT-T (will be 5spd), entry level BC Racing (BR) coilovers, adjustable GK Tech bits, the usual stuff. It should be making good hp, so i'm expecting that will overpower the chassis and my driving ability fairly easily at first haha. Goin to get some sticky tyres of some description too... suggestions? What ride height, spring preload, comp/rebound, tyre pressures are guys running? Any help/info is appreciated 👍🏻 Thanks in advance!
  4. Just to add, the Ryco Z145A is not as gigantic at the Z115, but much bigger than standard. This on my R34 RB25DET Neo (same 3/4" filter thread)
  5. I boight a black HKS one (purely coz i like the way it looked haha), but i'm not happy with the way it only screws on about 1 1/2turns. Feel like it should screw on more than that. It's my first RB, can anyone comment on whether the OEM or similar screws on more than that? 🤔
  6. Inline 6s balance out primary and secondary rotation forces so are inherantly well-balanced anyway. Weight matching pistons and rods is a must do i think (many builders go to the extent of weight matching either end of the rod apparantly as well) but for the most part, the crank should be sweet i reckon, i asked all these same questions awhile back. Verifiy bearing clearances as well. Also, ask the machine shop to remove oil gallery plugs and flush the gallerys as well, replacing the oem plugs with screw-in plugs. Just some food for thought...
  7. Building it right, and treating it right are the main two things i reckon. Yeah it'll be reliable if its got good parts, but also assembling correctly in regards to measurement, prep, and clearances etc
  8. Hypergear turbos built a yellow GTT (that im basing my build on) that made 570kw at the wheels from memory at 40psi with a stock cranked Neo. Look on YouTube for it. Plenty of power for a rear drive street car in most cases...
  9. Modifying them is the best 👌🏻 obviously that can be very wallet dependant haha
  10. Look up Tao Shangguan (Hypergear owner) on Facebook, he's really helpful and knows his stuff
  11. Hmmm, thanks mate, good info. Carpet is cheap enough, it may be worth getting some, hacking it up somewhat, and posting the results to show others. I might have a crack haha
  12. Thats what i'm thinking as well. Theres a good chance it would be fine i reckon. I'm yet to try it, but plan to asap.
  13. I'm building a forged Neo myself right now, and the different pistons allow for the different cylinder heads, and the relevant compression ratios. Got to run the correct piston to suit the head, if you want the package and known compression ratio to be simple, and easy to tune etc. Blocks should be same. Do some research on oil gallery restrictors (in the deck of the block) as well, as their configuration depends on the head you're running as well (VCT or non-VCT). Platinum Racing Products has a good diagram on their Insta page explaining this... I'm not a guru yet, so confirm what i've suggested elsewhere as well. But as far as i can tell, get those couple things right, and you should be sweet.
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