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    '98 R34 GT-T coupe
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ChrisW434's Achievements


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  1. Look closely at the picture of my gearbox (my GTT also converted from auto). I have labelled both N or R 👍🏻
  2. Yes, sounds like switch wiring needs swapping over.
  3. Once everything is bolted up, make sure the turbo shaft still spins freely, sometimes incorrect fitment can put tension on the housing in relation to each other and cause binding. And always pre-lube the turbo with engine oil. Pour a little oil into the top oil hole to prelube the bearing or journal, spin by hand to help this process. Also crank the engine to build oil pressure first then fire it. 👍🏻
  4. After looking around everywhere online like most people, i ended pulling the trigger on a turbosmart 60mm gate for my 2.5 Neo. My reasoning; - circuit 'track day' car with occasional street use, mid-and-up power preferred - targeting up to 40psi boost with ATR45-SS2 (gt3582 similar), Vband in and out. -6boost single scroll manifold (looks to be difficult to mount wastegate at efficient flow angle). - running e85 most of the time - engine is built with nice parts so should be reliable with 9000rpm (soft fuel cut) redline. - i don't want boost creep at high rpm/boost levels, and with less-than-ideal angle into wastegate at manifold (due to packaging), decided on the 60mm gate hoping the Haltech elite 2000 with good tune can eliminate any 'boost droop' issues (for lack of a better term) when that big girl first opens. keen to give it a try anyway...
  5. Yeah thanks for that. Sounds good, i'm keen to do it right and try to avoid those little mistakes so i can concentrate on the driving, and not have little things get in the way of a good time 👍🏻
  6. Thanks heaps for all that info, exactly what i was after. Great explanations as well. one question : your ride heights of 340/350; what point are they measured from? cheers! 🙌🏻
  7. Hi all, i'm chasing some assistance on chassis setup for track days. Attacking my first track day later in the year and would like the car to have a decent setup with alignment, coilover settings etc. so i have a solid base to start with. Its a GT-T (will be 5spd), entry level BC Racing (BR) coilovers, adjustable GK Tech bits, the usual stuff. It should be making good hp, so i'm expecting that will overpower the chassis and my driving ability fairly easily at first haha. Goin to get some sticky tyres of some description too... suggestions? What ride height, spring preload, comp/rebound, tyre pressures are guys running? Any help/info is appreciated 👍🏻 Thanks in advance!
  8. Just to add, the Ryco Z145A is not as gigantic at the Z115, but much bigger than standard. This on my R34 RB25DET Neo (same 3/4" filter thread)
  9. I boight a black HKS one (purely coz i like the way it looked haha), but i'm not happy with the way it only screws on about 1 1/2turns. Feel like it should screw on more than that. It's my first RB, can anyone comment on whether the OEM or similar screws on more than that? 🤔
  10. Inline 6s balance out primary and secondary rotation forces so are inherantly well-balanced anyway. Weight matching pistons and rods is a must do i think (many builders go to the extent of weight matching either end of the rod apparantly as well) but for the most part, the crank should be sweet i reckon, i asked all these same questions awhile back. Verifiy bearing clearances as well. Also, ask the machine shop to remove oil gallery plugs and flush the gallerys as well, replacing the oem plugs with screw-in plugs. Just some food for thought...
  11. Building it right, and treating it right are the main two things i reckon. Yeah it'll be reliable if its got good parts, but also assembling correctly in regards to measurement, prep, and clearances etc
  12. Hypergear turbos built a yellow GTT (that im basing my build on) that made 570kw at the wheels from memory at 40psi with a stock cranked Neo. Look on YouTube for it. Plenty of power for a rear drive street car in most cases...
  13. Modifying them is the best 👌🏻 obviously that can be very wallet dependant haha
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