TurboTapin

I'm currently running around 380WHP (450bhp?) on a bone stock RB20DET block with no issues. If your numbers above are BHP, then a stock block can handle them all with ease. A PT5858 with a .58ar T4 rear housing is a strange mix that I would personally not run on anything let alone an RB20. If you're aiming for 400whp, a 5558 or 5858 will both make that power and keep it going up top with a properly sized T3 housing. I'm currently running a Holset HY35 with a twinscroll 10cm rear (~.73ar) in a true twin scroll setup. 20psi around 4100rpm. Cheers.

Thanks everyone for the quick feedback. I've searched but wanted a quick response from people knowledgeable in NEO's as I need to put an offer on it right now before it disappears. Wiring/ecu isn't an issue as it's in my line of work and I'm already familiar working with nistune. Just wanted to confirm there's nothing mechanically funky with these compared to regular S1/S2 RB25DET's that would cause me any big issues. Thanks again.

I've been looking into building an RB25 on the side for awhile and finally came across a well priced one. I have a few quick questions before I move forward as I know nothing about the neo engines. 1. What exactly is different between an S2 RB25DET and an RB25DET NEO? From what I have read, it seems superior in everyway. 2. Anything weird I should know about putting these in an R32? Is there anything vastly different between an S1/S2 RB25DET swap besides ecu/wiring? 3. This is an auto RB25DET NEO. Besides the tranny and ecu, anything else that is different due to auto? I would purchase a new R34 5 speed or CD00X 6 speed to accompany it. Thanks!

I'm pretty confident a new radiator is the resolution to this issue.

There's no need to drop the tank to verify the tank vent, hoses, roll over valve, etc. You have access through the trunk fuel pump hatch.

HCR32 roll over valve is tucked in behind the rear diff. It's in the center and can be somewhat easily seen if you're under it. NIssan still makes them and they are roughly 80$. If it's not that then it's the short ~18" hose between the tank port and the roll over valve that is blocked. Ether way, should be an easy fix. Cheers.

I'm taking my rear diff off next weekend for maintenance purposes and was wondering if I should repack my cv joints while I'm there? The engineer in me is saying that grease after 31 years must have deteriorated but the normal part of me is saying don't waist your time... Googling reveals it's a "thing" on old Porsches. Good preventive maintenance or don't waist my time? Thoughts?

As already mentioned now, you can't run nistune on an R33 RB25 ecu. Get rid of it. Hopefully you're not currently driving around like that either. Cheers.

Are you running a stock 25det ecu? A different AFM will not give you more power, well not in the sense I believe you think.

The S1 RB25DET MAF is the same as an RB20 but I don't believe the S2 is, I may be wrong though. Confirm which one you have.

It's about 2-3 ugga duggas.

Heat wrapping manifolds is known to occasionally cause this. I would only consider it on a cast manifold.

This has been resolved by rotating the stator/casing presumably to its original location. No idea why or how this would cause what was happening but it's fixed.

I took my wiper motor off this weekend to clean up the aluminum and paint the steel parts (I was clearly bored). After reinstallation, when I start my wipers they now run in reverse just a tad, hit the cowl and then move forward and wipe the windshield. If I adjust the wipers so that it does not hit the cowl, they then park too high when I turn them off. Anybody ever seen this before? Thanks

Lift your carpet and remove the plastic being held in with 3 screws. Both my inner sills exactly at the same spot had decent rust due to this. Somewhat easy cut & weld job though. Cheers.