Jump to content

TurboTapin

Members
  • Content Count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by TurboTapin

  1. What he said. Battery offset, Latency, lag, dead time are all the same thing.
  2. Manufacturers state normal oil consumption for warranty reasons. If any modern car was burning 1L of oil per 1000kms, they would all be bankrupt due to warranty work. Think of it, that's anywhere between 8-15L added between oil changes, depending on the manufacturer. Cheers.
  3. I'm almost at 300rwkw and burn zero oil. Adding 1l per 1000km you would almost do two oil changes before your oil change is actually due. I'd consider 1l per 5000kms borderline. Only time I've seen engines burn that much oil is when they were on their death bed or bubba did something funky with his crankcase ventilation or turbo oil return. Unless you swapped in a 2 stroke or a rotary, I'd look into fixing that.
  4. I can't tell by your photo's exactly what portions of your rails are damaged but I just checked and Nissan actually still produces at a fair price most of the rail. Cheers.
  5. I really like it. If there's any part of it that I'm not 100% on; it's the rear.
  6. Welcome! I'm also from Canada and I get all my parts directly from the dealer. Nissan Canada can get anything directly from Nissan Japan, and some times weirdly enough has it in stock (Ex. My R32 skyline rear interior trims they had in stock at the Montreal warehouse) It's also always cheaper then you will find online. Cheers.
  7. Nissan calls them recirculation valves, and this being a Nissan forum I'll stick with that but their patents have a variety of different names. Speaking of patents, they also describe their purpose. Here's a portion of text of one of hundreds of different patents. Cheers. Patent US10077709 FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to diverter valve systems used with turbocharged or supercharged motor vehicles. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Most modern turbocharged vehicle engines include some form of factory-fitted blow-off or bypass valve in the intake tract, the purpose of which is to open during throttle closure to provide a relief path from a diversion aperture or pressurised air that would otherwise cause significant pressure spikes, resulting in damage or reduced life-span of the turbocharger, and also an unpleasant fluttering noise that is deemed unacceptable in a road-going passenger car. There is also a potential performance improvement, in that without a relief path, rapid throttle closure and the resulting pressure spike can rapidly slow the turbo compressor, leading to a longer delay in returning to peak boost when the throttle is re-opened (i.e. increased turbo lag). Similarly, allowing the bypass valve to relieve too much pressure can also have an adverse effect on turbo lag—evacuating the entire volume of the intake tract means that despite maintaining a higher compressor speed over the short term, when the throttle is re-opened the intake tract must be re-pressurised which causes an increase in lag.
  8. I highly doubt every automotive manufacturer is designing and adding parts (Recirculation Valves) which cost them extra money and complexity just for the fun of it. Same applies for Turbo manufacturers recommending them when they don't even sell them (Garrett, etc.)
  9. Just drive it slow and out of boost on your way to the dyno.
  10. Blown turbo doesn't automatically mean his turbine wheel grenaded. Now with that said, the difference you have in compression between cylinders isn't great. Report back on a warm engine.
  11. Anytime I purchase a "new" used car, first thing I do is change all fluids. When in doubt, change it.
  12. Your issue is not the oil drain, it's the fact that you basically sealed up your engine. I'm blown away you have not been sending dip sticks to the moon every time you start your car lol. Do not start the car back up like that. If you want to keep your hoses setup the same way, replace your sealed air/oil seperator with a vented catch can (The ones with a filter on top). I prefer running an oem type setup with 2x sealed air/oil seperators.
  13. is that catch can sealed? If so, that is not at all how that should be done and will cause damage.
  14. Another thing that will cause this is a seized alternator, ac compressor or p/s pump. It will make the engine turn over much slower causing it not to start. I see this often on Suzuki's with seized alternators.
  15. That's far from a right off. You're good to go.
  16. Go pull your hose, drive around and let me know if "all the boost will bleed off." Cheers.
  17. You could pop the internal wastegates off; allowing the wastegate flaps to always stay open... you would not build any boost. Would be much easier to just take it easy on the gas pedal though.... And yes that is indeed a strange question and thing to want to do. Cheers.
  18. I'm confirming that is correct. If the air regulator (Aka cold start valve) is not powered when your pump is on then it's possible your pump was rewired at some point incorrectly. Look for any evidence of this. The air regulator 12VDC wire splices into your fuel pump 12VDC wire between the fuel pump relay and FPCM on the right vertical inner fender wall of your trunk about a foot away from the rear right taillight.
  19. As already mentioned, do not under any circumstance purchase a cheap ching chong meow turbo off of ebay. You will regret it.
  20. Not sure if it has been mentioned as an option yet, but I'm running a 10cm twin scroll HY35W and I make 273rwkw @ 20psi and start spooling around 3100rpm. It's probably actually more as my clutch fan died on the dyno and we were letting it cool between pulls. It's still pulling at 7800rpm. Another plus is these turbos new from Holset go for about 600$CDN. Cheers.
×
×
  • Create New...