TurboTapin
-
Posts
412 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by TurboTapin
-
-
On 4/11/2024 at 6:30 AM, Komdotkom said:
Doesn't the 370z box have a gear position sensor? Worth looking to see if it can be retro fitted
I ended up looking into this and you're absolutely right. The sport models with Syncro Rev Match(SRM) have a gear position sensor.
-
22 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
That is way too loose. What is the state of the tensioner?
22 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:Looks a bit loose, follow the manual again, crank the motor by hand so everything is loaded up and lock in the tensioner.
Thank you both for confirming! Happy I caught that before the dyno. I've put ~800kms on the new engine since, just street tuning it. Luckily it didn't skip a tooth.
I only had about an hour tonight to work on it after my daughter fell asleep but I just have the pulley and lower cover left to remove. 340ftlb torqued pulley bolt came off much easier then expected.. Tensioner was new and seems fine. I had originally tightened it as per manual (2 full turns on spring then tighten). I'll give that another go hopefully tomorrow night if I have the pulley off by then.
-
1
-
-
I was just doing some final checks before the dyno. While checking timing, I noticed my belt seems a tad loose. I'm probably over thinking this but what's everyone's thoughts on this?
I had originally tightened it as per manual. I also noticed that with engine running, the belt between crank and intake cam shakes back and forth.
Should I tighten her up a smidgen?
-
As already mentioned, we need to know what was limiting you. Fuel? Knock? If I understood correctly, you have your rev limiter at 7200rpm? If so, that is very low/strange, and your tuner would have made a point to discuss it. A G35-900 will continue to make power north of that.
What gas and where are you located?
-
2
-
-
On 4/19/2024 at 7:33 PM, Butters said:
I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines
... zero issues, staged of course
Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines.
1x 8mm line cannot flow 525lph, let alone two pumps worth of it. Your first pump isn't being fully utilized and your second pump isn't doing anything at all.
-
You got your answer when everything was OK after disconnecting your return line from the FPR. Why in the world are you running a 460, 2200CC injectors, etc. on stock 8mm lines?
Keep the pump, ditch the lines. I used both 8mm lines as my feed and one of my Hicas 10mm lines as return.
-
Voltage read at the ECU and battery will not be identical, especially on 90's cars. If the delta is excessive (~ >0.8VDC) verify your wiring to ecu, ECCS relay and ignition switch.
If your battery voltage (Measured at the battery) while running is under ~13.8VDC, verify your existing grounding, exciter circuit and alternator.
Do not add any further grounding.
-
On 4/5/2024 at 12:17 PM, Rabster The Outlaw said:
Ok so just been out to check everything and have cleaned up the boot connection to the chassis and the starting seems a little less “laboured” but still pulls the voltage down to about 9v
however when it’s connected and running now after cleaning everything up it’s sitting at 15.5v on the in built Chinese usb charger with voltage display. The in car one is also jumping around
my voltmeter is with my work tools buried in the back of the pickup so will dig that out tomorrow and check it at the battery when cranking and running for more accurate readings but I think the alternator might be in its way out but that doesn’t answer the slow ish starting but if it’s been overcharging at 15v+ it has possibly fried part of the battery
Confirm voltage on your battery directly with a multimeter. If you are in fact at 15.5VDC+ then your voltage regulator on your alternator is shot, which also explain the voltage flicker. Charging your battery at those voltages will also lead to eventual damage.
-
1 hour ago, morboost said:
damn no e85, the only reason Australia has it GM (holden) did a deal with caltex (a fuel company) to supply a e85 for a flex fuel domestic model car. The car was a dud as owners where using 30% more fuel in a non performance application and just started filling the car with regular unleaded. The car company went broke and the fuel company stopped selling it. Thankfully another fuel company started selling e85 as the performance benefits had been realised in boosted application its ozzy 98ron with 15% ethanol, loves boost and timing.
We don't have E85 at the pump due to our winters. It wouldn't be pretty. But most of our petrol is an E15 mix.
-
43 minutes ago, Tillis3 said:
Interesting. My tuner was telling me that I should not do this when I previously understood that to be an option. Sounds like everything works well for you.
Is the information to set this up available through haltech's website or on the IC-7 dashboard software?Gear detection can only be done by either the use of a load/position sensor which you generally will not find on H pattern manual gear boxes or calculated from the gear ratio. As we're not running sequential or auto boxes, there are no other options. What exactly did your tuner tell you not to do?
Once you have speed and rpm going into your ecu, all you have left to do is input the correct gear ratios in the ecu. Once you have your speed signal going in, PM me and I'll gladly help you. This is quick to setup.
-
And I thought we had a lot of useless laws in Canada. Let the poor old guy live out his youth again... It has no impact on anyone except for him.
-
6 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:
None of those are important and you should save $ and accept sad and depressed life, which is what a SUV is.
Get from A to B, and be miserable. It's the JDM way.
(the other alternative is get from A to B, maybe)I almost prefer driving my SUV over my Skyline. I like large vehicles with comfort and gadgets, I'm getting old...
Speaking of unreliable SUV's with bad warranties, Land Rover... I had a 2008 Range Rover Sport Supercharged back in the day. It had a lot of issues and one day in 2012, engine decided to make all kinds of horrendous noises. I bring it to the dealer. They tell me they believe they know what it is and that it should be covered under warranty. Here's the best part though, since they cannot confirm the issue without taking the engine a part, it will cost 20 000$ out of pocket for investigation and replacement and whatever is under warranty will be reimbursed once the job is done.
I just remember laughing about their third world warranty and walking out. My first and last Range Rover. I was lucky to get full not broken engine value on a trade in at another dealer the week after. It was a quick SUV and I do miss the center console fridge that perfectly held 6 beer but what a piece of crap that thing was. Spent most of its life broken.
Long story short, English cars are worst then Euros...
-
1
-
-
On 3/31/2024 at 11:08 PM, Kinkstaah said:
Also yeah, that is a reasonably good result for petrol at 19psi. I'd say this is working as one would expect. If you dialled in 25psi into it it may be interesting to see what it'd do, but because you're on 93 (hello USA) the answer is probably knock.
Almost all of the results you read here are on E85, which makes dramatic differences.98RON (EU) = 93AKI (NA). We also have 94AKI in Canada which is 101.5RON. In the US. they have E85 unlike us in Canada.
-
1 hour ago, TurboTapin said:
Yes, everything works as normal.
I forgot to mention, gear position on the IC7 is a calculation based on engine rpm, vehicle speed and gear ratios you have setup in your ecu.
-
6 hours ago, Tillis3 said:
Does yours show gear input? Like what gear you’re in?
Yes, everything works as normal.
-
32 minutes ago, Tillis3 said:
Do you have an IC7?
Yes I do. GPS speed works well.
-
1 hour ago, Tillis3 said:
@TurboTapin I am running a very similar setup to you. I have a CD009 with a Haltech 2500 and iC7. Did you ever figure out a way to get the gear input from the transmission? My r32 gtst does not have abs to pull that data from and I am using a Cusco 4.56 2 way diff not a z diff.
I run Haltech GPS speed.
-
Harness is back in the car. Besides removing the Haltech adapter harness and running new shielded cables for my DBW pedal, I also recrimped and soldered all the DBW pedal connector pins. I found another bad crimp on one of the TPS wires. This is the second bad crimp I find on this connector and the most likely cause of my DBW P2135.
While the harness was out, I also segregated all chassis and signal grounds. Nissan bonded both with one wire from the intake manifold chassis ground ring terminal that went back to the signal portion of the ground splitter near the ECU. I'm presuming they did this due to the use of one wire sensors (Ex. Knock sensors).
I'll get the car on the dyno hopefully within the next 2-3 weeks. I need to find a day I can take off work that aligns with the dyno's availabilities.
I'd like to also add that Speedtek has yet to respond to my request for a refund.
-
1
-
-
Great news, diff is on and works well. Doesn't sound like a meat grinder anymore. Going to a 4.08 from a 3.3 wasn't ideal but good enough for now and I'm happy.
Semi bad news, having some DBW issues (P2135). I checked all my connectors, tried adding more filtering, damping, etc. with no luck. I got this error once last year and then it disappeared. I had presumed it had been resolved with a firmware update but I'm not so sure anymore. Either way, I have been seeing some slight voltage drop on my other sensors when fiddling with the pedal. My 5VDC and ground wasn't originally done the greatest (I share both with other sensors). I decided to pull the harness and run shielded wire for my TPS and direct 5VDC and ground wires back to the ecu.
I was already planning on pulling the harness at some point to remove the R32 OEM ECU plug & Elite 2500 adapter harness and just wire it directly to the ecu to help get rid of unneeded junk. It also takes up a lot of space. With more snow on the way, now's the time to get this done.
-
2
-
-
On 3/17/2024 at 9:55 AM, DanGreen006 said:
The combustion engine isnt going anywhere, we'll transition to synthetic and or bio fuels / hybrids
Honda tested at 40:1 afr and settled on 34:1 with a 16:1cr in a video online when F1 switched to E10 with TJI
TJI is the biggest thing to happen in ignition since the spark plug was invented 100yrs ago aside from high frequency ignition which is banned and expensive for large scale oems.
You wont have to change anything it'll be a retrofit and you'll be able to tune it on a crappy old fcon v like HKS have done with your existing bottom end
I dont think it will be expensive either - Mahle, Federal Mogul, Beru all seem to getting ready to cater to oem applications in anticipation of Euro7 emmission laws -
$5m ?
I found some for sale for a gas turbine engine from Champion for $350 USD others for $500 for a big German Gas turbine unit
I think it will def solve a lot of your issues running Cali's crap fuel esp in regards to knock not to mention the insane 47mpg HKS are quoting for the heritage RB
The secret will be in the tune imo
What gas turbines have you seen this on? I work on a variety of turbines (GE, Siemens, Rolls Royce, Solar, Etc.) and our ignitors do not cost 350$ a pop nor do I understand how TJI would apply to a turbine.
-
9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
What a major headfk!
I was looking into a Speedtek gearset, after reading your experiences & you pointing out PRP removed them from their website, it's pretty evident to avoid them with the longest pole possible.
You should google "Alex Kantarovski speedtek" and it will lead you down another rabbit hole, with many posts on SAU alone. Alex is the owner of Speedtek.
Someone even went out of their way to create a wordpress site about it. alexkantarovski – Alex K the rip off king (wordpress.com)
-
1
-
-
I picked up my diff today. Both their shop manager and machinist wanted to have a chat prior to me leaving. Conversation started with "Where did you buy these garbage parts? What's the name of the company?" They actually went on Speedtek's website during our conversation and made what I think is the best gear head joke I've ever heard after seeing they make straight cut gears.
"They've probably only gotten away with selling straight cut gears as they'll make noise whether they're properly machined or not. People are none the wiser" The humor made the 2500$ in the hole I'm in after this whole experience a little better lol. They also pointed out that not only did they find identical issues on both ring and pinions that Speedtek had sent, but that by eye you can see the pinion teeth do not have the same profile from one end to the other.
They went on about this being the worst diff job they've ever done and how it was a colossal waist of time. Luckily after mentioning how I purchased another diff to learn how to assemble them, they were nice enough to give me a crash course on diff assembly on another diff they were currently doing. I like to tell myself they did this to be nice but deep down, I know it's to be extra certain they'll never see me there again lol.
Speedtek was pushing for a store credit but I'll never feel confident purchasing from them again due to their third world machining techniques and QC. I just asked for a full monetary refund.
I'll pop the diff back in this Friday and take it for a spin if the streets are clear of snow.
-
3
-
-
5 hours ago, Liam2421 said:
Ok I’ll try get my hands on one but perhaps you could tell me if it goes off the same wire as o2 sensor Hopefully can kill 2 birds with one stone if I just tap ignition and the pin 113 into that, thankyou for your help
Yes, it's the same 12VDC circuit that feeds the O2 sensor, AAC valve, Boost control solenoid, etc.
-
1
-
-
22 minutes ago, Liam2421 said:
I have a copy of the ecu pinout as per this guide https://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php/Wiring_an_RB25DET_into_an_R31
You should have the wiring diagram handy and not just the ecu pinout. VCT on an R33 is one wire to 12VDC (Originally from fuse #17 but any 12VDC will do) and other wire to pin 113 on ecu. VCT solenoid is not polarity sensitive.
-
1
-
... zero issues, staged of course 
Rb26 expected power
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange...
What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?