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Posts posted by TurboTapin

  1. On 12/4/2021 at 3:52 PM, Duncan said:

    It's a little late as the back plate is already on, but you can prepack the pump with assembly lube (or even vaseline apparently) to help build pressure quickly on start up too.

    I've heard of this practice before and it is an excellent idea but instead I've always just pulled the plugs and injector fuse and cranked until I see pressure prior to first start. So far this has always worked for me on new builds or motors that have sat for a long time. Thanks for the heads up though Duncan! Cheers. 

  2. See this thread. It explains it perfectly. 

    Exhaust Mainfold | Skyline Owners Forum


    Picture of RB25 elbow gasket on RB20 turbo elbow for comparison. Both the size and flange are different. As @GTSBoy has already mentioned though, it can be made to fit. I would just open up the flange with a die grinder and drill out the bolt holes so they match up. 




  3. Got around to finishing my oil pump. Started by comparing the old and new gear set for "Science" and peace of mind.


    Old and new inner gear I.D. Nearly identical.




    Old and new outer gear O.D. Nearly identical.




    Old and new outer gear thickness. Identical.




    Old and new inner gear stub O.D. Nearly identical.




    Both OEM and PRP gear sizes were basically identical. Moving on, I verified tolerances as per service manual. 



    Measurement #1 - Outer gear to housing clearance. .152mm was a go, .203mm was a no go. It's within specs. 




    Skipped measurement #2 as it's a new gear set. Measurement #3 & #4. .152mm was a no go. I did not have anything thinner but I see a small gap so will assume this is within spec. 



    I was happy with the measurements and moved on with assembly. Measurement #5 is not pictured. Cleaned bolts thoroughly for proper Loctite adhesion, oiled gears and housing and knocked out the old seal. 






    I then assembled the pump without Loctite to verify fit. The gears did not bind on anything and turned freely. Lastly I assembled with Loctite and torqued to spec. I added an extra 2nm for peace of mind. I mark each screw with a paint marker after I've torqued it. This is also useful in the future to verify if any of the fasteners have backed out.



    Pumps now ready to party!






    • Like 2
  4. On 12/4/2021 at 5:08 AM, NCred02 said:

    So if I understand. A RB20 turbo compressor outlet and a RB25 are not the same size?

    Excuse my lack of knowledge. never had a turbo and my first Japanese vehicle as well. I have searched for outlet specs and cant find any information on bolt pattern or spacing    

    Correct, they are not the same. An RB20 compressor outlet does not bolt onto an RB25 turbo. 

  5. Had a bit of time so I worked on my valve covers. Wanted to plug the pcv valve hole and paint them. 

    I started with disassembly.


    Next up was cutting out a piece of aluminum to block the port and welding. I had a few beers but it came out alright.




    Lastly tossed a couple coats of gold on them. Should match my PRP CAS bracket pretty well.



    I also received my PRP RB25/RB26 billet oil pump gears today. Took the time tonight to clean out my old pump so it's ready for verification/installation tomorrow. 




    • Like 1
  6. On 11/30/2021 at 5:43 PM, GTSBoy said:

    Not front suspension. I said you will need to do things at the rear. The "lower front suspension pickup points" I was referring to are the lower front points on the rear suspension.

    Front suspension has a whole raft of other geometry issues that are essentially unsolvable without using upper arms that pivot in the centre. Many words written on that topic.

    WRT the diff, yes, you just need a centre to suit what you've got already.

    Perfect, understood! Thanks. I unfortunately just found out most if not all ARP products are on national backorder. My main studs and most likely my head studs as well will only arrive in February. I just spam emailed every company between Canada and Australia to see if anyone has them in stock. If not, I'm probably going to order my diff now so I can continue working on something while I wait. 

  7. On 9/12/2021 at 3:49 PM, TurboTapin said:

    What exact size are people drilling out their 5x head/block oil return passages too? I've read a variety of different sizes in this thread and elsewhere and want to confirm. Already did the head at 10mm as there's a lot of material but want to confirm for the block as the walls look thinner. 





    Anyone? I've read 9mm, 9.5mm and 10mm. 

  8. On 11/29/2021 at 9:12 PM, GTSBoy said:

    V. good.

    When you've successfully given this thing all this power, you're going to need to do some things at the rear. You will need a diff. You will also want to consider modifying the lower front suspension pickup points to obtain geometry more similar to the R33/4s, because the R32 has terrible anti-squat geometry and they just do not like to put the power down. This, coupled with some proper adjustable upper arms and traction/radius rods and some time and effort spent with a bump steer gauge (you will have to make this yourself) will make the back end behave a lot better.

    First I hear about the front geometry issues I'll definitely have some questions for you when the time comes. As for drivetrain and rear, the plan is a CD00A, beefier shaft and axles and a 1.5 diff.

    So far I'm presuming the R200 housing and stubs will suffice but I need to look into it more. Thoughts? 

  9. On 11/28/2021 at 3:17 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

    If you're planning to run N1 style gears, you'll need a RB26 or RB25DET NEO oil pump. They won't fit in a R32/R33 RB25DE/T housing.

    Also I suggest you get a brand new pump then fit billet gears to them, this will allow a better fit and also reduce any unwanted movement.

    I did the whole N1 gears in a RB25DET NEO pump that had probably 300k km+ on it. Let's say it didn't work out well.

    They sell both 81mm and 77mm diameter gears for regular or n1 pumps. My pump doesn't have many km's but I'll verifiy clearances prior. I think I'm going to try the 81mm gears in my RB25 pump. 

  10. On 11/29/2021 at 3:10 AM, soviet_merlin said:

    Yes please for more updates! It looks super clean now.

    Are you actually driving it in winter? I'd be so worried about stuff rusting away.


    Hah. Did someone say 40 channels of datalogs... looking forward to see what you do with it.

    I'll never drive it in the winter! I can barely drive it in my driveway with snow, let alone on public streets haha. Thanks, more updates coming soon. 

    • Haha 1
  11. On 11/28/2021 at 7:43 PM, DaymoR32 said:

    love this, i'll be watching very closely to see how the stroker performs as im very interested in stroking my NEO.


    Keep up the posts mate!

    Hey, thanks! Happy you like it. I'll update rather often. Tend to work on it every weekend or so. 


    • Like 1
  12. Now just waiting for my ARP main bolts to arrive so I can drop off the block at my machinist. Once machining is done I'll be able to start putting everything together. ARP bolts seem to be on backorder everywhere. I'm hoping it doesn't slow everything down too long.


    Meanwhile I've been keeping busy with other smaller things that need to get done. I got a wicked deal on a new still in sealed box Haltech Elite 2500 and R32 adapter harness. Guy was asking 2300$ for both, which is about 1000$ off retail. Here I was just flashing it with the new NSP firmware that came out about a week ago.

    I've been getting accustomed with the platform. Very different compared to nistune. Volumetric efficiency is very new to me but wow this seems simple to tune... Very happy with the purchase and all the different features. Due to my career path and love of software/electrical design the ecu and electrical is what I always geek out the most about on builds. I have a lot of other Haltech parts on the way now.  I've always opted for stock ecu software in the past and never had a full blown standalone. Very exciting! Yes that's a mug my wife got me with my car on it.  Love that mug lol. 





    • Like 2
  13. After accepting the fact that this build was now going to cost double, I moved forward. I could now aim for more power anyways... more power is always good. 

    First step was to build the head. I went with all new Ferrea parts and buckets. While I was waiting for the parts, I dropped off the head at TK Race heads, a local shop to actually professionally port it. He put 6h of porting into it, it's mild but at least it's done properly and will now flow evenly. By the time he was done, the parts finally arrived and he assembled it. 





    Head is done, short of 272 vct Kelford cams but those will be ordered at a later date. Next was the block. Engine had originally met its demise due to a ring land letting go. I never planned on reusing the pistons or rods, but also now needed a new crank since the one supplied was toast. I figured I might as well stroke it now while I'm at it.

    I ordered Spool I beam rods with .250 wrist pins and L19 hardware, 9:1 CP Pistons and a Spool 2.8L billet stroker crank. Received everything about two weeks ago. 





    • Like 1
  14. Fast forward to this summer and once again I was bored. It was fun for a bit but having always had 600-800hp cars, it wasn't cutting it. I enjoyed my little RB20 but knowing RB25/26 prices were shooting up, I had to buy one now while I still could. I found a blown RB25 on Facebook Marketplace for 1500$. An accepted offer of 1200$ and 8h of driving later, I found myself the new owner of a disassembled blown engine. 


    After going through everything at home, I noticed the head had been ported by a blind guy with Parkinson's and some parts were scrap. He had mentioned the head had been professionally ported but having him hand me most of the head parts in a dremel box should have been my first indicator that by "professionally" he meant him after a few beers. 



    He had left the valves in the head while porting it and nicked them all on a few occasions with his dremel. The lifter buckets were all in a box without having marked where they went. Crank looked like it had been left out in the rain, etc. I quickly realized my intentions of just tossing in forged pistons and rods went out the window. At the price I had paid, it was still a fair deal.




  15. I enjoyed the car for that summer but quickly realized it was slow.. very slow. My little RB20 running 14psi on the stock turbo wasn't cutting it anymore. Winter 2020 was around the corner and I wanted to see what an unopened RB20 with a bigger turbo could do. 4-5 months, a lot of fabrication and a Holset HY35 later and I finally had a respectable 366whp.





    Car had some severe heat issues due to a dead clutch fan on the dyno, and I've done a few upgrades since. Car is making at least 380-390whp now. Here's some specs on that setup and an updated picture from today.

    6boost twin scroll t3 manifold

    Dual turbosmart 40mm gates

    Holset HY35/10cm twinscroll @ 20PSI

    R35 maf/4" intake

    Splitfire Coilpacks (Rewired S2 with no external igniter)

    DeatschWerks 550CC Injectors

    AEM 320 Pump (FPCM Removed, OEM Relay Rewired)

    FFP Cast Manifold

    3.5" Downpipe to 3" Catback


    ATP Catch can

    94 AKI Pump gas


  16. Spring was finally around the corner and I could finally drive the car (You cannot legally drive without winter tires during winter in Quebec). Wasn't much of a drive but I dropped it off at a local paint shop to be resprayed in its original black pearl metallic. 


    We agreed that he would have it done within a month. Here is what it looked like two months later lol. I generally don't stress about things but having purchased this car 6 months prior and only had driven it for a total of 10 minutes, I was annoyed. By this point I was going to his shop every day to put pressure.



    During the wait, I purchased some BBS LM's from upgarage to replace the hoopty mags that were on the car.


    Three months later and many return trips to the paint shop to resolve issues; the car was painted and drivable. With the extra two months he took, he actually forgot to paint my rear spats and buff the car. 


    • Like 1
  17. Started building an RB28 recently and I have not seen many high hp R32 GTS-T builds so I figured it might interest some. I also plan on keeping this car for awhile, so it's fun to document. I'll recap from the beginning.

    The year is 2018 and I had just sold my 800hp E55 AMG due to boredom... Car was fast but it was automatic and finally drove me nuts. Having always had turbo manual cars prior (B5 S4, STI's, IS300, etc.) I knew the recipe to keeping me happy. I started looking for a Pulsar GTI-R but every car I went and saw, was rusted beyond belief. Sadly GTI-R's in Canada were often sold for 2-3k back in the early days and were mainly used as winter beaters. Of the 5 I saw, all 5 had 10K+ of bodywork to do. American's could finally buy RHD cars and Skyline's were getting popular again so I decided to look into those. 

    Finally found one on Facebook marketplace just before winter and after a quick inspection in his driveway, the body was immaculate. I offered him 8000$CDN to his 10000$ asking price and he accepted. This hurt as back in the day a mint GTR use to go for less but times were changing. Car also included a GTR hood, wing and grill he was planning on installing.



    Owner lived near Quebec city which is roughly three hours away so I left a deposit and it was agreed we would meet at a later date to transfer ownership and that I would then come back to pick it up. We met the next week and transferred ownership. At this point he was adamant in delivering the car personally... I knew this trick. This is the cars a pile of crap that will burn down to the ground before you get it home and I would rather you not be aware of it until after you have paid me in full trick lol. I had already invested a lot of time into it and they were going for double the price, so I was fine with it. He arrived, quickly mentioned the alternator was so so but that he was a great guy and had a spare in the trunk along with Tein coil overs he found laying around for it. I paid him, and he left.

    Car wouldn't even start to get it into the garage, so when he said the alternator was so so, he meant it was shot. It was later into the evening and I also noticed no lights in the rear were working and only one headlight. How he managed to drive three hours without being pulled over was surprising. Long story short and many hours of wiring later, all the electrical issues were resolved. I spent the rest of the winter fixing a bunch of other issues with the car and installing the GTR parts I had. As for those Tein coilovers the guy had left me? They had part numbers for three different cars and two were leaking so to the trash they went. 







  18. On 11/27/2021 at 4:48 PM, joshuaho96 said:


    The N1 pump has the same flow rate as an RB26 OEM pump, the difference is basically in the gear dimensions and profile.

    Yea that's also my understanding. That's why I'm presuming there's no gain in purchasing an N1 oil pump housing. The PRP billet pump gears are N1 style gears so whether they're in an RB26 or N1 housing, the advantages remain the same. 

  19. On 11/27/2021 at 12:05 AM, joshuaho96 said:

    Your oil pump has to have some amount of backlash in the gears, otherwise any little bit of a thermal expansion would probably cause the gears to bind and destroy the entire assembly. When you have a rapid transition from acceleration to deceleration like a hard fuel cut I'm pretty sure that the oil pump gears and the collar on the crank are not staying in perfect contact with each other, instead they're changing RPMs at subtly different rates. So the steady state load you'd predict from something like a pull to 7000 RPM is no longer valid, instead you have to consider the maximum relative acceleration and the resulting impulse from impact when that lash is taken up again.

    Some sources: http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/real-problem-with-rb26-oil-pump.html

    All issues mentioned are mitigated by running billet gears and a long nose crank. My question pertains more to the oil pump housing differences. I already have an RB25 pump housing I wanted to put billet pump gears in. I was wondering if there's any advantage if I purchase an N1 pump instead and put billet gears into that. Even stranger is I found a link (One in OP) that states the RB25 pump housing is actually preferable which I'm wondering why.



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