TurboTapin

You got your answer when everything was OK after disconnecting your return line from the FPR. Why in the world are you running a 460, 2200CC injectors, etc. on stock 8mm lines? Keep the pump, ditch the lines. I used both 8mm lines as my feed and one of my Hicas 10mm lines as return.

Voltage read at the ECU and battery will not be identical, especially on 90's cars. If the delta is excessive (~ >0.8VDC) verify your wiring to ecu, ECCS relay and ignition switch. If your battery voltage (Measured at the battery) while running is under ~13.8VDC, verify your existing grounding, exciter circuit and alternator. Do not add any further grounding.

Confirm voltage on your battery directly with a multimeter. If you are in fact at 15.5VDC+ then your voltage regulator on your alternator is shot, which also explain the voltage flicker. Charging your battery at those voltages will also lead to eventual damage.

We don't have E85 at the pump due to our winters. It wouldn't be pretty. But most of our petrol is an E15 mix.

Gear detection can only be done by either the use of a load/position sensor which you generally will not find on H pattern manual gear boxes or calculated from the gear ratio. As we're not running sequential or auto boxes, there are no other options. What exactly did your tuner tell you not to do? Once you have speed and rpm going into your ecu, all you have left to do is input the correct gear ratios in the ecu. Once you have your speed signal going in, PM me and I'll gladly help you. This is quick to setup.

And I thought we had a lot of useless laws in Canada. Let the poor old guy live out his youth again... It has no impact on anyone except for him.

I almost prefer driving my SUV over my Skyline. I like large vehicles with comfort and gadgets, I'm getting old... Speaking of unreliable SUV's with bad warranties, Land Rover... I had a 2008 Range Rover Sport Supercharged back in the day. It had a lot of issues and one day in 2012, engine decided to make all kinds of horrendous noises. I bring it to the dealer. They tell me they believe they know what it is and that it should be covered under warranty. Here's the best part though, since they cannot confirm the issue without taking the engine a part, it will cost 20 000$ out of pocket for investigation and replacement and whatever is under warranty will be reimbursed once the job is done. I just remember laughing about their third world warranty and walking out. My first and last Range Rover. I was lucky to get full not broken engine value on a trade in at another dealer the week after. It was a quick SUV and I do miss the center console fridge that perfectly held 6 beer but what a piece of crap that thing was. Spent most of its life broken. Long story short, English cars are worst then Euros...

98RON (EU) = 93AKI (NA). We also have 94AKI in Canada which is 101.5RON. In the US. they have E85 unlike us in Canada.

I forgot to mention, gear position on the IC7 is a calculation based on engine rpm, vehicle speed and gear ratios you have setup in your ecu.

Yes, everything works as normal.

Yes I do. GPS speed works well.

I run Haltech GPS speed.

Harness is back in the car. Besides removing the Haltech adapter harness and running new shielded cables for my DBW pedal, I also recrimped and soldered all the DBW pedal connector pins. I found another bad crimp on one of the TPS wires. This is the second bad crimp I find on this connector and the most likely cause of my DBW P2135. While the harness was out, I also segregated all chassis and signal grounds. Nissan bonded both with one wire from the intake manifold chassis ground ring terminal that went back to the signal portion of the ground splitter near the ECU. I'm presuming they did this due to the use of one wire sensors (Ex. Knock sensors). I'll get the car on the dyno hopefully within the next 2-3 weeks. I need to find a day I can take off work that aligns with the dyno's availabilities. I'd like to also add that Speedtek has yet to respond to my request for a refund.

Great news, diff is on and works well. Doesn't sound like a meat grinder anymore. Going to a 4.08 from a 3.3 wasn't ideal but good enough for now and I'm happy. Semi bad news, having some DBW issues (P2135). I checked all my connectors, tried adding more filtering, damping, etc. with no luck. I got this error once last year and then it disappeared. I had presumed it had been resolved with a firmware update but I'm not so sure anymore. Either way, I have been seeing some slight voltage drop on my other sensors when fiddling with the pedal. My 5VDC and ground wasn't originally done the greatest (I share both with other sensors). I decided to pull the harness and run shielded wire for my TPS and direct 5VDC and ground wires back to the ecu. I was already planning on pulling the harness at some point to remove the R32 OEM ECU plug & Elite 2500 adapter harness and just wire it directly to the ecu to help get rid of unneeded junk. It also takes up a lot of space. With more snow on the way, now's the time to get this done.

What gas turbines have you seen this on? I work on a variety of turbines (GE, Siemens, Rolls Royce, Solar, Etc.) and our ignitors do not cost 350$ a pop nor do I understand how TJI would apply to a turbine.

You should google "Alex Kantarovski speedtek" and it will lead you down another rabbit hole, with many posts on SAU alone. Alex is the owner of Speedtek. Someone even went out of their way to create a wordpress site about it. alexkantarovski – Alex K the rip off king (wordpress.com)

I picked up my diff today. Both their shop manager and machinist wanted to have a chat prior to me leaving. Conversation started with "Where did you buy these garbage parts? What's the name of the company?" They actually went on Speedtek's website during our conversation and made what I think is the best gear head joke I've ever heard after seeing they make straight cut gears. "They've probably only gotten away with selling straight cut gears as they'll make noise whether they're properly machined or not. People are none the wiser" The humor made the 2500$ in the hole I'm in after this whole experience a little better lol. They also pointed out that not only did they find identical issues on both ring and pinions that Speedtek had sent, but that by eye you can see the pinion teeth do not have the same profile from one end to the other. They went on about this being the worst diff job they've ever done and how it was a colossal waist of time. Luckily after mentioning how I purchased another diff to learn how to assemble them, they were nice enough to give me a crash course on diff assembly on another diff they were currently doing. I like to tell myself they did this to be nice but deep down, I know it's to be extra certain they'll never see me there again lol. Speedtek was pushing for a store credit but I'll never feel confident purchasing from them again due to their third world machining techniques and QC. I just asked for a full monetary refund. I'll pop the diff back in this Friday and take it for a spin if the streets are clear of snow.

Yes, it's the same 12VDC circuit that feeds the O2 sensor, AAC valve, Boost control solenoid, etc.

You should have the wiring diagram handy and not just the ecu pinout. VCT on an R33 is one wire to 12VDC (Originally from fuse #17 but any 12VDC will do) and other wire to pin 113 on ecu. VCT solenoid is not polarity sensitive.

Thanks for the heads up! I'll take a Gleeson cut over a Chinesium Cut that Speedtek uses all day everyday. Jokes aside, for transparency, Speedktek did finally respond and seems ok with a refund. I'll confirm once it's done.

In Quebec we call them "sac bananes". Banana bag in english lol

My assembler called today and it's confirmed the 2nd Speedtek pinion is in fact toast. He assembled it quickly with the 4.08 final drive to confirm. Worst news is Speedtek isn't answering my emails. I'll give it another few days and then start harassing them by phone. Good news, my diff should be ready this week. He just had to finalize a few things as he put it to the side for another urgent project (He seems to prioritize funny car/top fuel work). I'm also still waiting on the delivery of another 4.08 S13 LSD diff to take apart this winter to presumably toss in another 3.3-3.6 final drive by myself as to learn. I will not be repeating this experience again. Aww Speedtek, how I'm unimpressed...

Just to add to what Murrey said, you still need to measure your cylinder bores before purchasing pistons. Unless it was rebuilt recently, if you have 86mm bores, purchase 86.5mm pistons. If you have 86.5mm bores, purchase 87mm pistons. If you have 87mm bores, have your machinist inspect your block first before purchasing pistons. It's not advisable to bore past 87mm. Cheers,

Welcome to the forum! Feel free to share pictures of your car.

Was the speed taken on the dyno or your cluster? As I also have to deal with seasonal tire changes, I'm presuming you have smaller winter tires like most? If so, it causes a difference between cluster and actual road speed. Cluster was at 180kmh limit but you were reading 163kmh on the dyno.