TurboTapin

I'm only using their adapter plate with a milled down bellhousing as apposed to also using their adapter flywheel. There's a lot of advantages and no disadvantages of going this route in my opinion. No idea if it's been revised over the years. So far the adapter plate itself has been decent. I've already mock fitted the transmission and everything works. With that being said, Collins Instructions and after sales support are hands down the worst I've ever seen and just for that alone I would not buy from them again. I had more questions then answers after reading their instructions. Their technical writer should be fired. I sent multiple emails, only one was answered by someone who I believe was drunk as I could not understand a lick of it. Phone calls went unanswered. Who ever manages their after sales support should also be fired.

XClutch/Australian clutch services got back to me. Their support is top notch and quick. They confirmed that air gap should be >= to 5mm and travel should be >= to 10mm. With that info, I'll replace my 42mm carrier with a 32mm bumping up my air gap to 12mm and call it a day.

I was wondering if the general consensus is still that cracked blocks are a 4WD issue only or has that opinion changed over the years?

Just wrapping up a CD009 install with an x clutch twin plate. The 42mm release bearing carrier that Collins supplies is made for a single plate clutch and gives me roughly 2mm of air gap. I'm concerned this is too little and that once I install the slave cylinder it will ride on the pressure plate fingers. Nissan's next size down is 32mm which would give me 12mm air gap. I could also have my Collins carrier machined to whatever I like. What airgap do Nissans generally run? I cannot find it listed anywhere. I've never had to pay much attention to this in the past. I'm also waiting on a response from X Clutch. So options are 2mm, 12mm or machine carrier for custom value. Thanks.

That's the one. Cheers.

It's in the trunk between both tail lights behind cover. It's green.

Which FPCM wire is not getting 12VDC? Your fuel pump 12V does not go through FPCM. Both are separately powered by your fuel pump relay which is powered by #8 15A fuse.

Out of sheer curiosity, what power levels are you guys chasing with billet blocks?

I'm presuming by ICM you mean igniter? And by fuel control module, the FPCM in the boot? There's not many links between all three that would not cause a bunch of other things not to work. Check your 30A fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

Agreed. Forums > Facepalm. Welcome to the forum!

I picked up my milled bellhousing yesterday. Just finished notching it out for my starter. I'm going to use the bellhousing to massage my trans tunnel tomorrow before reassembling the trans. Hopefully my X Clutch twin arrives soon. This is my last big step before I can wrap everything up engine wise.

You can only use the JWT adapter with their flywheel. As I'm running a twin disc, I'm avoiding this by milling my bell housing down. Cheers.

I've never had to disassemble a new transmission before... It felt wrong. I'll get the bell housing milled down this week.

I received my adapter plate and picked up my transmission from the dealer today. Still waiting on the x clutch twin plate to arrive. I'll be removing the bellhousing tomorrow to get it milled down 14mm next week. While it's off I'll also do some test fitment and adjust my trans tunnel if needed. New large boxes from the dealer are always fun.

How is that 3.7 treating you?

Keep this up and I'll end up doing my doctoral dissertation on oil caps... "Oil cap variations and its adaptive consequences on society"

Since I really take this oil cap science seriously I decided to take this even further... I confirmed with Nissan EPC that both older and newer style nissan oil caps (15255-1P103 & 15255-1P110) fit all RB25's. I then realized I have three Nissan's with both of these caps in the driveway so I did what any grown man would do... I ran out and interchanged them. They all fit. Btw while on the topic, the newer caps (1P110) that I have on my Sentra and Rogue are garbage and can never be undone by hand. Cheers.

As a sanity check, I verified a few popular brands like HKS, Nismo, Top Secret, Tomei, etc. and all have the same part# for S1, S2 or Neo. Are we sure they're not the same? Because I'm pretty sure they're the same...

My understanding is all Nissan oil caps are M32 x P3.5, including S1, S2 and Neo RB25's. What makes you think they are different?

No clutch leave you stranded? It's definitely a pity to drive but any manual car can be started and shifted through all gears without a clutch. In my youth, I had a buddy run an 88 civic without a clutch pedal for 6 months before he could afford a new clutch cable lol. Why buy a clutch cable when you could buy smokes and beer... priorities when young and stupid lol.

Test your IACV as per your service manual. If it's a dud, I've found a few used/new for sale online...

Pop your sparkplugs out and confirm you're not getting fuel while cranking please.

1 - What fuse was that exactly? Missing details here. Might not even be related... 2 - If you're changing injectors, what ecu are you running? My train of thought here is for whatever reason you decided to change to 550's and you're still running a stock ecu/tune. If so, 30$ says you're issue is not no fuel, it's too much fuel... and you're engine is flooded. Just pop your sparkplugs out and see if they're wet and check if you have fuel sitting in your cylinders after cranking. This would also explain why it wouldn't start when you went back to the stock 380cc's.

Pin 1 to Pin 2 is your coil. Pin 3 to Pin 5 is a N/O contact. With no 12 VDC present on Pin 1 & 2, PIN 3-5 contact will be open. With 12VDC, contact will be closed.

Not a problem, I'll post them here when I get around to doing it. I'm using a radium fuel pump hanger though so results might vary a tad. Cheers!