TurboTapin

Hey, no need to pull the hanger out. You can see the voltage on the ic7. I'll empty tank, note voltage. Fill tank, note voltage and then scale accordingly. Cheers!

Small addition to my post above. This morning I noticed my door ajar light was turning on occasionally when it shouldn't. I had a stray 8vdc being fed back from ground side with key out. After taking a closer look at the original cluster, I noticed nissan was actually aware of this as they added a diode. I tossed in a 1N4007 and it's resolved.

Been busy with yardwork. Just finished another 12'x14' paving stone deck for the fire place... 120lb stones are not pleasant to put down. The weight never crossed my mind when I told the salesman I want the big ones. I'm a fool. A fool who now has three decks for some reason. The wife is also in her third trimester so that's also been keeping me busy. Been doing odd ends on the car as well, finally wrapped up the IC7 dash and LED indicators today. Everything works great, will just have to scale my fuel level at a later date. Looks much better then I expected.

A recent realization of mine is that depending on whether you mill 15mm off the bellhousing or go with a thicker flywheel to adapt for the CD trans, the latter probably is the cause of having to notch out the trans tunnel hole. No idea why I never made the connection before but here we are.

They don't put them there for nothing. The three bolts cost all of 5$. Use them.

If you're in Canada just go to your local Nissan dealer for parts. We're one of the few country's that seems to still be able to order JDM parts through dealer. Cheaper as well as there's no middle man. I get small things that are cheap to ship from Amayama when I'm too lazy to drive over to the dealers. Cheers.

I order a fair amount of parts from Japan(Amayama) and it takes roughly 2-3 days to arrive in Quebec snail mail. 1 day if you pay extra. If you're in Australia which is much closer, should take half that.

This is one of the reasons I decided to go Haltech IC-7/GPS Speed. Unfortunately it's expensive work around.

Finally recieved the last parts I needed to wrap up the engine and pop it back into its hole. I'll try and wrap up the IC7 dash install tomorrow.

Thanks! I purchased the mount from outsider garage. Was the cheapest one I could find and I noticed every company that sells them uses the same photo's so I'm presuming they are all coming from the same place. I copied the idea of putting the lights to the right/left of the IC7 from Mako Motorsports. I finally received my PRP cam gear yesterday so I should be able to wrap up the motor and pop it in this weekend.

I agree 100% with you. OEM R32 projectors were not originally designed for LED bulbs, nor should you expect it to be anywhere close to perfect or comparable to 2022 LED projectors. But with that being said, I still saw a very drastic improvement. I can actually see further then 5 feet in front of me. I would recommend it to anyone and everyone who owns an R32 and one of the cheapest/greatest things I did to my car. It's an improvement that may not be perfect, but it's an improvement nonetheless.

Haha we're on the same page!

Was this verified and signed off by an independent lab? If not, you're a mad man. As already mentioned, you might think you see better but in reality you don't. Your eyes are probably lying to you. The Tom Cruise movie "Eyes wide shut" was actually based on this exact situation.

Setup my IC-7 dash today. I saw a company that does roughly the same setup and I liked it enough to copy it. IC7 in a recessed cluster mount. I put 5x 12mm LED's. Battery light (With resistor in parallel), seat belt light, open door light, fuel low light and HICAS light. Yes I still rock HICAS, replaced most of it with new parts years ago and always worked well. Also bought another fancy tool Friday. Decided to upgrade my older chinese AC/DC Tig welder with an ESAB 205IC AC/DC Multi-Process welder. I've Tigged aluminum and mild steel with it so far and it's been great. My other machine was by no means bad but I'll never look back.

The little Mitsubishi sign in the middle of the CAS should not spin at all. It probably got loose somehow(!?) and spins here and there due to vibration. Even stranger is touching your CAS should not cause your engine to sound different, that's why Duncan is probably asking if it's loose. It's normal timing fluctuates a few degree's at idle. That's what controls your idle speed. You need to lock your timing prior to verifying. If your idle is swinging drastically, you most probably have a vacuum leak. Pressure test or smoke test your system.

I don't think anything short of an exorcist will resolve the CAS issues you just described but I am anxious to see it. I second the request for a video.

Looking good! Love cover colour choice.

Unfortunately with the Type K connectors at the bottom and the canbus connector on top, you need a fair amount of space. I tried both locations you mentioned with no luck. I'm either going to make a bracket to space it out near your yellow circle or near the right headlight. Cheers.

It can actually flow up into it. Capillary action up the cable into the bag. I appreciate the ideas though. Sorry to come off strong, bagging things is just a very hot topic in my field. A lot of old timers did it and it's one of those things we scream inside when we see because we know when we remove it to do it properly, you'll get covered in rusty water and whatever surprise it hides will be corroded. Cheers!

Throughout my career as an electrician and then an electrical engineering technologist, I have yet to see a plastic bag wrapped in electrical tape waterproof anything. It has the opposite effect, water gets in and stays in. I agree, It should be rather well protected with liners, but I like to err on the side of caution.

I have a catchcan where abs usually is, if not that would of been a great spot. I'll probably make a bracket and put it somewhere in that region.

I bought WHP thermocouples from ecumaster. They are much cheaper then Haltechs and come with weld bungs and compression fittings. Not certain how long the leads are, but long enough to get anywhere sane. Haltech states the amps are not completely water proof so I'm going to avoid front guards. I don't want to put it in cabin to avoid the nest of wire. Rather pass 1x canbus cable into engine bay then 6x TC's into cabin.

Sold my entire old setup within a week. At this point I've ordered everything I need minus my drivetrain but It's been a waiting game. Most parts are back order and take longer then expected to arrive. Motors complete minus timing belt and Front/Rear head drain hard piping. Just waiting on one cam gear to wrap it up and toss it back in. While I've been waiting, I replaced my oil filter bypass plug with an oil byass valve as I'll be using an external oil cooler. Just drilled/tapped it and used a puller to get it out. While the motors out, I've been redoing my harness and a lot of wiring for all my Haltech components. I've also been tidying things up under the hood by painting the firewall, resizing intercooler pipe holes for 3", etc. Been doing the harness in the living room inside, should be done this week. The wife's been enjoying the company watching Judge Judy lol. Hopefully I'll finish the motor and be able to pop it back in by next weekend. I'll need to finish up my fuel lines beforehand as well. Using both 5/16 lines with 2x an6 - 1x an8 coupler fittings as a feed and adding a new 3/8" hard line with 8an fittings for return.

I'm in the middle of installing a few Haltech bits and can't find a nice place under the hood for my TCA-8 amp. Where is everyone putting them? I hate that they put the connector on top.

^ As Rob has said, there's barely a lip to seal on. I'll be purchasing a Taarks adapter to get around this issue.