TurboTapin

Thanks guys! Very informative. I never thought of N/A cars... only had boosted applications in mind. I'll definitely be purchasing an adapter.

I doubt it. The chamfer and the lip thickness would not allow a pipe to be clamped on, not without slipping off anyways.

I meant the other end of it. Where a pipe would mate up to it and not the intake manifold.

Purchased a Bosch 82mm throttle and 350Z pedal amongst other things to go drive by wire. I know they sell a range of different adaptors for the throttle body (Plazmaman, Tarks, etc.) but originally how was this throttle body mated up to a pipe? How was that little 1/2" flange meant to be used? Is the chamfer for an O-ring? Couldn't find any information online and was very curious...

Agreed. The RB20 housing does not have a bypass/relief valve. That's why RB20's have the bypass valve in the block. Cheers.

Agreed! You seem to have made two great points to keeping it yet removed it? In your opinion, what are the positives to removing it?

Canada's big. This must be an OP local thing as my area has a lot of well known skyline shops that do top work.

After taking the night to think about it, I could see a lot more positives then negatives to removing the plug and fitting in a bypass valve. I center punched, drilled and taped the plug M8x1.25. Used a plate and a bolt as a puller and it came right out. After lots of cleaning with a magnet, shopvac with a small vacuum hose and brake cleaner; I gently hammered in the new bypass plug using an appropriately sized socket.

Yea I think bypass is the way to go as well but I want to get other peoples thoughts before I drill out the plug.

As I'll be doing an external oil cooler, I'm replacing my stock RB25 oil cooler with an RB20 oil filter housing. My RB25 left passage is currently plugged. Is it best to keep it plugged or too remove and replace with bypass valve? I have a bypass valve on hand ready to install but I've never seen any concrete info on which is best. Most discussions seem to have a split vote. My concern is that without bypass valve, will oil pressure be higher on occassions it should not or does it only bypass due to a clogged filter? Thanks

I'm sticking with the P&P harness but I agree with option #1. I have a feeling most unconnected wires can be solved with an undocumented jumper setup within the adaptor. I'll report back once confirmed.

I just wrapped up buzzing each pin and wow I see what you mean. I was rather surprised by a few oddities found. I'll toss it all into an excel and post it here at some point this week.

Nissan R32-R34 ecu pinout's don't show all pin connections with the elite 2500. One example of this is Pin 113 which is usually a "N/C" but is connected to Pin B17 on Elite 2500. Pin B17 is surprisingly not even mentioned in the Haltech adaptor manual. That makes for a spare DPO or ignition driver that I can use pinning directly into the stock ecu connector. It also doesn't show which grounds are jumped within the adaptor, etc. Cheers.

Thanks a lot! That's a lot more complete then what I found. Cheers.

Need a hand. I was about to start redoing my stock wiring harness for my elite 2500/P&P adaptor and can't seem to find a wiring diagram that shows what pin on the elite is connected to what pin on the stock ecu harness with the adaptor. The Haltech adaptor wiring diagram only shows from the elite connector to connector going into ecu adaptor and not on stock ecu connector which in my opinion is useless. I know I can just presume what pin it is on based on the descriptions or test them one by one but this wiring diagram must surely already exist? Thanks

Good evening Gents, In 2022, which RB/CD009 shifter relocation kit comes most recommended? Do any of the shifter relocations actually manage to get the shifter back within the shifter tunnel without cutting? GK seems to require cutting, how about the new Serialnine CD999? Thanks.

Pulled out my good old trusty RB20/HY35 setup. My garage is a mess but luckily I have a few people coming to buy most of it tomorrow. Stupid what people are willing to spend on these now... A complete RB20 & trans went for 1500$ on a good day 3-4 years ago.

Happy we're all on the same page! He's a great and very well known builder in the area but I believe he's overly conservative to try and cover his ass. Thanks.

Question for everyone. I'm wrapping up an RB28 build (Stroked RB25) and went with .250" gudgeon pins along with CP Pistons. I figured the extra wall thickness would come in handy down the road if ever I decide to push it further with nitrous. I'm running a complete Ferrea valvetrain and new hydraulic lifters. I had presumed at the time my hydraulic lifters would limit my RPM well before the extra gudgeon pin weight would. My machinist who has done countless RB's seems to think otherwise. I have no reason to doubt what he says, but he does tend to err on the side of caution and I just wanted a second opinion. I was planning on pushing it to a somewhat conservative 8000RPM. He said he would not be comfortable past 7400RPM due to the added rotational weight. Thoughts?

Parts started coming in this week, I was able to get most of it done today. Just waiting on my cams and a couple other things. Need to go to my local dealer and order a CD009/A so I can start on that in-between other things.

Aww yes I have the stage 1.5 crackle tune but unfortunately couldn't afford the pop part. I'm going to pop chip my ecu soon though.

Still waiting on parts, they should start arriving this week. Mocked up my PRP crank trigger while I wait. Have a question for everyone, I've been hearing different opinions then what I had originally presumed. Is anyone running/building RB's with .250" thick wrist pins? If so, what are you revving them up too? Have you limited the RPM due to the added rotational weight? Thanks

Took awhile but I finally got my block back from my machinist/assembler. I can finally continue with the build. Realized my ARP RB25 balancer bolt doesn't fit. It's a spool RB25-RB28 stroker kit but it must be identical to their RB26 stroker kit and have the crank sized for an M18 RB26 bolt and not an M16 RB25 bolt. Never thought of this when I ordered it but it makes sense. I just wish they would have listed it in the description. I'm off to order another one of those and a few last remaining parts.

I could repair this for you in 30 minutes but the head would have to come off. Call your local machinists/fabricators who could Tig this back together and retap. Don't worry about it, this is a rather simple repair. Cheers.

You can actually charge 12V batteries. They do 2-24V. Now would I actually use one on any of my batteries? Not a chance.