TurboTapin

Hey, thanks! Happy you like it. I'll update rather often. Tend to work on it every weekend or so. Cheers.

Now just waiting for my ARP main bolts to arrive so I can drop off the block at my machinist. Once machining is done I'll be able to start putting everything together. ARP bolts seem to be on backorder everywhere. I'm hoping it doesn't slow everything down too long. Meanwhile I've been keeping busy with other smaller things that need to get done. I got a wicked deal on a new still in sealed box Haltech Elite 2500 and R32 adapter harness. Guy was asking 2300$ for both, which is about 1000$ off retail. Here I was just flashing it with the new NSP firmware that came out about a week ago. I've been getting accustomed with the platform. Very different compared to nistune. Volumetric efficiency is very new to me but wow this seems simple to tune... Very happy with the purchase and all the different features. Due to my career path and love of software/electrical design the ecu and electrical is what I always geek out the most about on builds. I have a lot of other Haltech parts on the way now. I've always opted for stock ecu software in the past and never had a full blown standalone. Very exciting! Yes that's a mug my wife got me with my car on it. Love that mug lol.

After accepting the fact that this build was now going to cost double, I moved forward. I could now aim for more power anyways... more power is always good. First step was to build the head. I went with all new Ferrea parts and buckets. While I was waiting for the parts, I dropped off the head at TK Race heads, a local shop to actually professionally port it. He put 6h of porting into it, it's mild but at least it's done properly and will now flow evenly. By the time he was done, the parts finally arrived and he assembled it. Head is done, short of 272 vct Kelford cams but those will be ordered at a later date. Next was the block. Engine had originally met its demise due to a ring land letting go. I never planned on reusing the pistons or rods, but also now needed a new crank since the one supplied was toast. I figured I might as well stroke it now while I'm at it. I ordered Spool I beam rods with .250 wrist pins and L19 hardware, 9:1 CP Pistons and a Spool 2.8L billet stroker crank. Received everything about two weeks ago.

Fast forward to this summer and once again I was bored. It was fun for a bit but having always had 600-800hp cars, it wasn't cutting it. I enjoyed my little RB20 but knowing RB25/26 prices were shooting up, I had to buy one now while I still could. I found a blown RB25 on Facebook Marketplace for 1500$. An accepted offer of 1200$ and 8h of driving later, I found myself the new owner of a disassembled blown engine. After going through everything at home, I noticed the head had been ported by a blind guy with Parkinson's and some parts were scrap. He had mentioned the head had been professionally ported but having him hand me most of the head parts in a dremel box should have been my first indicator that by "professionally" he meant him after a few beers. He had left the valves in the head while porting it and nicked them all on a few occasions with his dremel. The lifter buckets were all in a box without having marked where they went. Crank looked like it had been left out in the rain, etc. I quickly realized my intentions of just tossing in forged pistons and rods went out the window. At the price I had paid, it was still a fair deal.

I enjoyed the car for that summer but quickly realized it was slow.. very slow. My little RB20 running 14psi on the stock turbo wasn't cutting it anymore. Winter 2020 was around the corner and I wanted to see what an unopened RB20 with a bigger turbo could do. 4-5 months, a lot of fabrication and a Holset HY35 later and I finally had a respectable 366whp. Car had some severe heat issues due to a dead clutch fan on the dyno, and I've done a few upgrades since. Car is making at least 380-390whp now. Here's some specs on that setup and an updated picture from today. 6boost twin scroll t3 manifold Dual turbosmart 40mm gates Holset HY35/10cm twinscroll @ 20PSI R35 maf/4" intake Splitfire Coilpacks (Rewired S2 with no external igniter) DeatschWerks 550CC Injectors AEM 320 Pump (FPCM Removed, OEM Relay Rewired) FFP Cast Manifold 3.5" Downpipe to 3" Catback Nistune ATP Catch can 94 AKI Pump gas

Spring was finally around the corner and I could finally drive the car (You cannot legally drive without winter tires during winter in Quebec). Wasn't much of a drive but I dropped it off at a local paint shop to be resprayed in its original black pearl metallic. We agreed that he would have it done within a month. Here is what it looked like two months later lol. I generally don't stress about things but having purchased this car 6 months prior and only had driven it for a total of 10 minutes, I was annoyed. By this point I was going to his shop every day to put pressure. During the wait, I purchased some BBS LM's from upgarage to replace the hoopty mags that were on the car. Three months later and many return trips to the paint shop to resolve issues; the car was painted and drivable. With the extra two months he took, he actually forgot to paint my rear spats and buff the car.

Started building an RB28 recently and I have not seen many high hp R32 GTS-T builds so I figured it might interest some. I also plan on keeping this car for awhile, so it's fun to document. I'll recap from the beginning. The year is 2018 and I had just sold my 800hp E55 AMG due to boredom... Car was fast but it was automatic and finally drove me nuts. Having always had turbo manual cars prior (B5 S4, STI's, IS300, etc.) I knew the recipe to keeping me happy. I started looking for a Pulsar GTI-R but every car I went and saw, was rusted beyond belief. Sadly GTI-R's in Canada were often sold for 2-3k back in the early days and were mainly used as winter beaters. Of the 5 I saw, all 5 had 10K+ of bodywork to do. American's could finally buy RHD cars and Skyline's were getting popular again so I decided to look into those. Finally found one on Facebook marketplace just before winter and after a quick inspection in his driveway, the body was immaculate. I offered him 8000$CDN to his 10000$ asking price and he accepted. This hurt as back in the day a mint GTR use to go for less but times were changing. Car also included a GTR hood, wing and grill he was planning on installing. Owner lived near Quebec city which is roughly three hours away so I left a deposit and it was agreed we would meet at a later date to transfer ownership and that I would then come back to pick it up. We met the next week and transferred ownership. At this point he was adamant in delivering the car personally... I knew this trick. This is the cars a pile of crap that will burn down to the ground before you get it home and I would rather you not be aware of it until after you have paid me in full trick lol. I had already invested a lot of time into it and they were going for double the price, so I was fine with it. He arrived, quickly mentioned the alternator was so so but that he was a great guy and had a spare in the trunk along with Tein coil overs he found laying around for it. I paid him, and he left. Car wouldn't even start to get it into the garage, so when he said the alternator was so so, he meant it was shot. It was later into the evening and I also noticed no lights in the rear were working and only one headlight. How he managed to drive three hours without being pulled over was surprising. Long story short and many hours of wiring later, all the electrical issues were resolved. I spent the rest of the winter fixing a bunch of other issues with the car and installing the GTR parts I had. As for those Tein coilovers the guy had left me? They had part numbers for three different cars and two were leaking so to the trash they went.

Yea that's also my understanding. That's why I'm presuming there's no gain in purchasing an N1 oil pump housing. The PRP billet pump gears are N1 style gears so whether they're in an RB26 or N1 housing, the advantages remain the same.

I would redo the entire line instead of having a union in-between two different lines. You can purchase this online or any hydraulic supplier. If you prefer to keep your lines, purchase a 5/16 tube to 9/16-18 male compression fitting.

All issues mentioned are mitigated by running billet gears and a long nose crank. My question pertains more to the oil pump housing differences. I already have an RB25 pump housing I wanted to put billet pump gears in. I was wondering if there's any advantage if I purchase an N1 pump instead and put billet gears into that. Even stranger is I found a link (One in OP) that states the RB25 pump housing is actually preferable which I'm wondering why. Thanks

Thanks everyone! Love the clear and detailed answers. I'll go R35 to be safe. I'd rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it.

What would be the advantage if any of running PRP billet oil pump gears in an N1 oil pump vs my RB25 oil pump? RB Tech (lewisengines.com.au) also seems to recommend using a standard pump vs an N1. Why is that!?

Have two quick spark related questions for everyone. I'm in the middle of building a stroked 2.8 and shooting for around 600kw. I'm expecting to run around 35psi to get there with my gen2 6466. 1st - Will good condition splitfire coilpacks have any issues around that pressure/hp? Should I just purchase r35 coilpacks to be safe or am I wasting my money? 2nd - As for sparkplugs, I'm planning on running 8's with a .6mm gap. Will this suffice? Thanks

Looks like an older Garret unit to me. Is it also written the AR on the compressor housing? (Ex: .070ar) If so, you should find the word garret on the turbine housing somewhere. Your manifold looks like an ebay special though...

Great job, this is much easier to read. Thanks.

What exact size are people drilling out their 5x head/block oil return passages too? I've read a variety of different sizes in this thread and elsewhere and want to confirm. Already did the head at 10mm as there's a lot of material but want to confirm for the block as the walls look thinner. Thanks

Has anyone dynoed the difference between using just a top plenum/oem runner vs short runner manifold? I'd love to see a graph and the difference.

My molding was rock hard from age so I cut it in half somewhere in the center with an xacto knife, being careful not to destroy the molding fastener under. I then proceed to pull it out starting at the center working my way towards the side molding. If you look at your new molding, you'll notice that there's nothing that actually holds it into the fastener under the side moldings. Repeat with second part. If this is the first time you change a molding on your R32 or any older car, use a heat gun to soften it up as you pull it out. If you don't, it will tear often and you will need to remove the broken parts afterwards out of the molding fastener which is a pain. If you don't have a heat gun, just leave it out in the sun. I also put masking tape on the painted edge to protect it. Cheers.

I'm confirming that the top molding can be removed without removing the side moldings. Cheers.

Good evening gents, I'm currently running a 6boost t3 twin scroll manifold with dual gates on an RB20. I'm in the middle of building a stroked RB25 that I would like to make ~700whp(520wkw) with. Looking into turbo selections, I'm noticing most turbo's in that size range are either T3 open or T4 divided but rarely T3 divided. Is there a reason for this? Will I be limiting myself? I'd love to keep this manifold as it was a pain fitting up/fabing it for twin gates with AC lines and I'd rather avoid doing it all over again. Thoughts?

Everything is normal except for your timing. It should not be at 0 while you're idling. When you throttle it, does it move?

I have an R35 maf in a 4" draw through setup with straightener. It was a nightmare to tune around idle and decel and it's still not 100% perfect. If I was keeping this setup (It's coming out this winter) I would redo it. I should have went 3.5" blow through from the start. Cheers.

In the middle of building an S1 RB25 and unfortunately noticed a few of my lifters have seen better days... Looking to replace all 24. OEM's are discontinued and I can only find aftermarket solid lifter conversions which I'm not very familiar with. What are my options? Thanks.

I'm currently running around 380WHP (450bhp?) on a bone stock RB20DET block with no issues. If your numbers above are BHP, then a stock block can handle them all with ease. A PT5858 with a .58ar T4 rear housing is a strange mix that I would personally not run on anything let alone an RB20. If you're aiming for 400whp, a 5558 or 5858 will both make that power and keep it going up top with a properly sized T3 housing. I'm currently running a Holset HY35 with a twinscroll 10cm rear (~.73ar) in a true twin scroll setup. 20psi around 4100rpm. Cheers.

Thanks everyone for the quick feedback. I've searched but wanted a quick response from people knowledgeable in NEO's as I need to put an offer on it right now before it disappears. Wiring/ecu isn't an issue as it's in my line of work and I'm already familiar working with nistune. Just wanted to confirm there's nothing mechanically funky with these compared to regular S1/S2 RB25DET's that would cause me any big issues. Thanks again.