2LV8ETR

Luke, There are 3 ways to go about this. 1: Buy a second-hand engine, drop it in, and swap all of your upgrades on to it. 2: Replace the crank. 3: Buy another engine that's tired. Pull it down, replace everything with the items we discussed over whatever period of time. Once complete, you will have a very capable engine. The downside to option 1 is that you have no idea as to what you're getting. The downside to option 2 is that you will have to spend money replacing all of the bearings and of course, the cost of the crank itself. Add to that the labour/machining and costs of gaskets and it would not really be a viable way to go. There's no downside to option 3 as you will eventually have a fully rebuilt and capable engine. The price of all the goodies and labour can be spent over a period of time at your leisure so it won't be a great burden on your finances. You can keep pussy-footing your car in it's present state and hope for the best. Another way to go with option 3 is to just rebuild it using stock parts. This way you know that the engine going in will not give up any time soon. If you can get hold of a set of 26 rods and pistons, the cost would be less than forged items, but you will be limited with the power cap. For the extra grand or so it would cost to forge it, and increase the power cap is entirely up to you. Would 400hp be enough? That's your real question. There's nothing stopping you from driving what you have now, but with the harmonic in the state it's in at the moment it will only be a matter of time before the engine lets go.

I'm at the stage where I'll be dropping in the injectors on the manifold over the weekend, so the resistor pack will be needed fairly soon. PM me if you need my number because I'd like to get hold of one ASAP and I'm more than happy to prepay if needed.

Nistune, and the resistor pack for the GT-R injectors.

Sorry for not getting back to this topic, for some reason I'm not being notified on the forums when a topic I have subscribed to is replied. So I was under the impression that there were no responses. Anyway, yes, the issue was with myself mistakingly assuming that the girdles would fit between blocks, I just chose the cleaner of the two to start with. I have SNAFU'd somewhere along the way in my thinking. It's all good now and the engine should be in the car soon as I am presently port matching the RB20DET intake to the 25DE manifold. There's a little bit of difference in size between the two and I just wanted to facilitate an even flow. Thanks for the replie guys, and Bubba, I'll be hitting you up for some gear soon. I still have your number.

Date: Sunday the 15th of April Meet Point: Good old Ranger Camping Kelmscott Meet time: 09:00 - 9:30 Depart We'll be playing around the Dwellingup area for this one. Real 4x4's only please. We don't want another day wasted due to a poorly setup vehicle like last time. Original Thread

As we're a distributor, we have to take what's given to us. Special requests bump up the costs somewhat and it's not something that our customers wish to bear. What this means unfortunately is that you, the fabricator, have to use your magic touch to make things right. The only people who get what they want is Woodside, but believe me, they pay for it. Just one of the fittings (header tank with 4 test rings) that passed through my projects warehouse last week cost them over $180k, including air freight and testing.

There's a good chance that we supplied the pipe and fittings for this. I'm a bit surprised at the unprotected RF's on the weld necks, you guys must be good at keeping things separated (unlike some peanuts out there). It's good to see you're proud of your work, well done.

This is the reason I do all my own work. It's hard to find someone you can trust.

I'm not easy on them, that's why I've done a few. A couple of other guys I know have had to convert to 25DET boxes because of the same reason. The only reason I went back to the 20 box this last time was because I was breaking the converted speedo sender units. While I rebuild the 25DET box, I'll be buying and using the Navara sender unit instead of a modded 20/25. It will be out a few km/h, but I can live with that Are you still using the Gts-4 box? If so, they are basically equivalent internally to a 25DET box, they're not skinny little mongrels like a 20DET box.

Yeah, the slave is different (bolt config), I forgot about that one. As I went from auto to manual I had to use the S13 auto crossmember backwards, but I used the same between the 20 and 25 box.

I was running 350hp though mine and went through 4 20DET boxes, keep in mind that there were track days involved. The 20 box will hold up as long as you baby it, but then, where's the fun in that? Saying that, I have also lunched a 25DET box. Start sourcing a 25DET box, spigot bearing (larger) and tailshaft yoke.

Where are you from? This would narrow the field down somewhat.

I have started my first of two RB30 conversions this afternoon and came across an interesting scenario. I am building two side by side, one 400hp for the street, and the other, an 800hp for competition. Both engines have been pulled down and one block and crank sent off for the usual machining. I didn't take any notice of what came out of either engine and just put everything up on shelves as I broke it down. Fortunately, one set of stock internals is easily discernable from the other as one engine was full of sludge and burned oil which discoloured the components, and here's why. When I went to fit the main girdle, the crank locked to the point where it wouldn't spin. I thought that there was an issue somewhere with the bearings being put in incorrect packaging, but measurements dictated otherwise. Just for the hell of it, I cleaned up the girdle that came out of the block I sent off first (the sludgy one), fitted it and torqued it down, and lo and behold, everything spun beautifully. To put it simply, the main girdle off one engine was slightly shorter that the one on the other engine. The girdle went on the other engine without issue, but they had to be fitted to the block of origin. This is my first 30 build (I've done 26's and 20's) and it's a first for me. I have had a look around to see if there have been other instances of this but I came up short of an answer as most builds are done singly, not side by side. Maybe there's a workshop or builder out there who can provide an answer to this wierd little teaser?

I don't see why we should be breaking the law when informing oncoming drivers of a speed trap. The radio is forever announcing where the locations of present multanovas and handhelds are. What's the difference? Aside from that, yes, I ALWAYS flash oncoming drivers a warning when applicable.

I've had a couple of bad experiences with them, I won't go into detail again, but it has put me off them for life. I don't care if there's only a few bad apples out there, even if the majority of them are doing the right thing. If they and John Q Citizen can put all modified vehicle owners in the Hoon basket, then I have no issue putting them in the same basket as what some of them have been found guilty of over the years. Spousal abuse, assault, sexual harassment, breaking and entering, possession of child pornography, and only a couple of weeks ago, misconduct for falsifying log books to get out of speeding violations are just a few of the things that have happened within the last year or two. Just do a search on police corruption and you'll see what I mean. I even remember years a go the 3 cops in Bunbury getting done for screaming through a multanova in a BMW wearing KKK hoods, and the cops who wiped themselves out near Kings Park on a high speed joyride. They aren't above the law, but they do get away with a lot because unless you have either video evidence or mutliple witnesses, your chances of proving anything they did are futile. Good luck keeping this thread going too by the way, my complaints and threads about things like this have been deleted before.